04-01-2020, 09:40 AM
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#1
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Member
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Join Date: Apr 2013
Location: Utah
Posts: 79
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Join Date: Apr 2013
Location: Utah
Posts: 79
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Brake Replacement
Hi Guys,
Needing to do pads/rotors (all four wheels) on my 2015 Trail.
Are the pads the same front and back?
Amazon has Hawks LTS $65 a set. Any other vendors you might can recommend?
With rotors are there any upgrades to be had where the price-point is same/similar to factory replacements?
TIA!!
G
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04-01-2020, 10:28 AM
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#2
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Junior Member
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Join Date: Jun 2010
Location: Marin County CA
Posts: 9
Real Name: Chris
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Junior Member
Join Date: Jun 2010
Location: Marin County CA
Posts: 9
Real Name: Chris
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Pads are different front and rear. Go to the Toyota dealership and buy pads there.(in my opinion). Have you measured your rotors?
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04-01-2020, 10:38 AM
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#3
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Member
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Join Date: Apr 2013
Location: Utah
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Member
Join Date: Apr 2013
Location: Utah
Posts: 79
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Went with the Akebonos through Rockauto.
This Trail is the DD (95% the time on pavement).
Next question:
Any write-ups on brake/rotor replacement?
Cheers,
G
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04-01-2020, 10:51 AM
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#4
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Senior Member
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Join Date: Jul 2018
Location: Where ever the Army puts me.
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Brake Pad upgrade? (stocks suck imo)
And wanderlost just posted a good how to on tubeyou.
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04-01-2020, 11:14 AM
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#5
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Join Date: Dec 2019
Location: Waco, Tx.
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Join Date: Dec 2019
Location: Waco, Tx.
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Wagner OEX carbon ceramic.
Front pads are WAY simple. 2 pads, two pins, 4 hairpin clips. Take you longer to get the wheel off than to replace the pads.
Rear pads are more involved... have to remove the whole caliper.
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04-01-2020, 11:34 AM
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#6
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Join Date: Apr 2013
Location: Utah
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Join Date: Apr 2013
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Quote:
Originally Posted by KF4R2011
Wagner OEX carbon ceramic.
Front pads are WAY simple. 2 pads, two pins, 4 hairpin clips. Take you longer to get the wheel off than to replace the pads.
Rear pads are more involved... have to remove the whole caliper.
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I am replacing the rotors as well, so all calipers have to come off.
The Wanderlost vid is excellent.
Thanks Everybody!
Cheers,
G
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04-01-2020, 02:47 PM
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#7
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Join Date: Oct 2019
Location: Central California
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Location: Central California
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I've always use OEM pads and rotors if needed. If you want to go after market I would check out Tirerack, they usually have the most options and the best prices.
I would also offer a word of advise, to get the best turn out of your old rotor have them do it on the truck (if it is still within spec) otherwise replace with OEM.
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04-01-2020, 02:57 PM
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#8
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Join Date: Jan 2020
Location: TX
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Good choice with the Akebono pads. They work great and don't require any break-in procedures.
For rotors I like Centric premium. Nice quality and not too expensive.
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04-02-2020, 02:54 AM
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#9
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Join Date: Mar 2010
Location: Northern Most...
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Location: Northern Most...
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Why do you need new rotors?
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04-02-2020, 03:59 AM
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#10
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Senior Member
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Join Date: Dec 2012
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The Wanderlost video is good. However, I would do one thing they didn't mention. Whenever I do brakes I take the top off the master cylinder and then set it back on without hooking the bale. Doing this makes it easier to push the caliper pistons back in to make room for the new pads.
I usually use the old pad and either a pair of channel locks or a c clamp to push the piston back. This will push fluid back up the lines and into the master cylinder reservoir; so go slow so brake fluid doesn't spill out of the master cylinder because of the loose top.
Inspect everything: condition of the fluid, piston seals, line connections, etc.
If any brake fluid spills clean it up pronto. It will eat through paint in a heartbeat.
If you have a bad piston seal, it will obviously have to be replaced before you can continue. The hard part is getting the piston out of the caliper; as it's a tight fit around the seal. If you pry on it and scratch anything, it will cause a leak. Here is one way to get the piston out without damage. It will require removing the caliper from the vehicle.
With the caliper on the bench place something soft (like shop rags) in front of the piston. Then use an air hose with a nozzle to blow air into the hole the brake line screws into. The air pressure will force the piston out. Install new seal lubricated with brake fluid and then push the piston back in. You'll have to bleed the line after reinstalling the caliper. May end up having to bleed all the lines.
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04-02-2020, 09:19 AM
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#11
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Senior Member
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Join Date: Nov 2019
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I personally never do a "pad slap".
I always replace the pads/shoes, calipers/wheel cylinders, and any hardware. Also replace all the brake fluid. I replace rotors/drums as needed.
Yes, a bit more expensive. But it is done correctly and completely. I don't cut corners when it comes to my brakes where my family's (and yours) are at stake.
I was an auto mechanic for many years and I've corrected many shortcuts others made.
Sent from my SM-G955U using Tapatalk
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04-02-2020, 01:37 PM
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#12
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Senior Member
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Join Date: Aug 2012
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Real Name: BobH
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In the past there were a lot of posts that recommended going with OEM pads and rotors due to the long life and good service. I have 64K on mine and they do not need to be changed yet.
When It's time, I'm going with OEM from a dealer, but do it myself plus a brake fluid replacement.
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04-02-2020, 01:39 PM
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#13
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Join Date: Feb 2013
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Real Name: Sparky
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BobsTrail
In the past there were a lot of posts that recommended going with OEM pads and rotors due to the long life and good service. I have 64K on mine and they do not need to be changed yet.
When It's time, I'm going with OEM from a dealer, but do it myself plus a brake fluid replacement.
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Colorado killed mine off by 60k miles. I was dumb and didn't change the brake fluid which looked like shit 10k miles later.
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04-02-2020, 04:30 PM
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#14
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Location: Denver, CO
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I just picked up all new rotors, pads, hardware, pins, etc. from Toyota.... I got 93,000 miles out of the OEM and decided to go all in with all new OEM Toyota stuff. The OEM worked great for me over the past 4 years and figured why do anything different. I'll be doing my brakes this weekend.
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