04-03-2020, 03:03 AM
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#16
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Rondigs
I had the same experience. After my last “free” oil change, I did my first oil change at home. I swear they put that housing on with an impact wrench. I broke one of the tabs off the plastic housing getting that thing off... Now I need to come up with a replacement.
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I did see a Dorman metal replacement filter housing at O'Reilly's.
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04-03-2020, 03:45 AM
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#17
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Banned
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Join Date: Nov 2017
Location: Bay Area, CA
Posts: 2,247
Real Name: Mark
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Banned
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Quote:
Originally Posted by patkelly4370
I did see a Dorman metal replacement filter housing at O'Reilly's.
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You’d be better off getting a genuine Toyota part. Others have had leaking problems with aftermarket replacements. I paid around $28 for mine on Amazon.
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04-03-2020, 08:34 AM
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#18
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Join Date: Dec 2019
Location: Nor*Cal - Solano County
Posts: 347
Real Name: MURDERED TRD
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Quote:
Originally Posted by pDubs
Bought my 4runner used from a dealer who had just changed the oil. 6k miles later I go to do the first oil change myself and the oil filter must have been torqued to 150 ft lbs. Breaker bar wasn’t budging it. Eventually I snapped the oil filter wrench on my 1/2” breaker bar, had to order another filter wrench. Take 2 resulted in finally breaking the housing loose but cracking it. That’s the only reason I went metal, was $25 on Amazon with 1 day shipping at the time and the truck was stuck in the garage.
OP I noticed same thing. Threading it in until the o ring starts making contact is easier to spin. Been 3+ years and ~40k miles later and zero issues.
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They probably didn’t lube the large rubber Oring when they installed the plastic housing.
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04-03-2020, 08:41 AM
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#19
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Join Date: Apr 2015
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Quote:
Originally Posted by eelliiss
Piggybacking off of this thread. Does anyone have difficulty removing the plastic drain extension from the aluminum housing? It's been tremendously difficult to insert and remove for me.
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me too. It was easy with the plastic housing. It's a major pain with the dorman aluminum one I have now. I made a big mess last time
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04-03-2020, 09:31 AM
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#20
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Join Date: Oct 2018
Location: Texas
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Quote:
Originally Posted by eelliiss
Piggybacking off of this thread. Does anyone have difficulty removing the plastic drain extension from the aluminum housing? It's been tremendously difficult to insert and remove for me.
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Just did my first oil change (first one I've done, the rest were part of the free ones from Toyota) and I decided to switch to the metal housing. I tried the plastic drain in the metal housing before installing it just to see how it worked compared to the plastic housing and I had to nearly destroy the plastic plug to get it out of the metal housing. I ordered a Motivx drain to actual drain the oil from the filter housing and it was nice and easy to install, use and remove.
Amazon.com: Motivx Tools Oil Filter Wrench, Drain Tool, and Advanced Engine Oil Funnel Set for Toyota & Lexus 2.0L - 5.7L Engines with Cartridge Style Oil Filter Systems: Automotive
Oh and just an FYI, I picked up my OEM Metal oil filter housing from the dealership along with two filter and two washer with tax for $46 or $48 and had it the next morning, Amazon was several weeks out due to COVID-19!
Last edited by SparkySparks83; 04-03-2020 at 09:34 AM.
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04-03-2020, 10:14 AM
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#21
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Join Date: Aug 2016
Location: Austin, TX
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Quote:
Originally Posted by SparkySparks83
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Good to know I'm not the only one. With my aluminum housing, I've resorted to removing the entire housing, disassembling, and then removing the plastic drain from the inside both times I changed the oil.
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04-05-2020, 03:15 PM
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#23
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Join Date: Nov 2017
Location: Phoenix Arizona
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I swapped my housing out for the aluminum one but didn't change out the metal center from the plastic housing. Is it that big of a deal?
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04-05-2020, 03:33 PM
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#24
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Quote:
Originally Posted by TheJokingExplorer
I swapped my housing out for the aluminum one but didn't change out the metal center from the plastic housing. Is it that big of a deal?
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Yes, it affects how the canister seats.
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04-05-2020, 04:12 PM
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#25
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Quote:
Originally Posted by LandCruiser
Yes, it affects how the canister seats.
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My aluminum housing seemed to fit just fine. I had zero issues installing it no leaks ect... I guess ill change my oil a little sooner and fix it.
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04-05-2020, 06:09 PM
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#26
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Dm3ga
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I am doing the same thing with the Toyota metal housing in a week or two. Should make it a lot easier and cleaner to just run both tubes into the container
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08-03-2020, 10:14 AM
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#27
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Join Date: Aug 2019
Location: GA
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just attempted to install my OEM Toyota metal housing this weekend during a routine oil change, and with everyone else's success stories it seems like i'm "That Guy" who couldn't get it to work.
i noticed during installation like everyone else has mentioned; there was almost no resistance once the o-ring engaged the filter mount, the housing just bottomed out against the mount and that was it. the center tube was properly swapped, i lubed the o-ring and installed in the right channel, and it was torqued to spec. upon startup i had the presence of mind to leave the skidplates off and observe for any leaks. i immediately saw weeping around the housing-to-mount seam, and wiped it off. within 10 seconds it was filling up the seam with a thin line of fresh oil again:
i figured if it was weeping this much at idle oil pressure, i definitely didn't want to find out what it would do at 60-70psi trying to merge onto the highway at high RPM.
took it back off, checked over my work, and everything looked like it was supposed to. as far as i know its a legit OEM housing, and not a Chinese knockoff (purchased from McGeorge Toyota's online sales). The filter and o-rings were also OEM components bought from Toyotapartsdeal.com, so i feel like everything should have worked since they were factory parts.
i went back to the polymer unit with a fresh o-ring and it snugged up perfectly with no weeping at all. as far as i've been able to tell, i can't find any instance of the standard polymer housing failing in normal use while on a running engine. all the stories of breakage seem to be from installation error. i think i'll take my chances and just keep a second polymer housing around should the need ever arise.
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08-03-2020, 11:45 AM
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#28
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MidniteTRD
just attempted to install my OEM Toyota metal housing this weekend during a routine oil change, and with everyone else's success stories it seems like i'm "That Guy" who couldn't get it to work.
i noticed during installation like everyone else has mentioned; there was almost no resistance once the o-ring engaged the filter mount, the housing just bottomed out against the mount and that was it. the center tube was properly swapped, i lubed the o-ring and installed in the right channel, and it was torqued to spec. upon startup i had the presence of mind to leave the skidplates off and observe for any leaks. i immediately saw weeping around the housing-to-mount seam, and wiped it off. within 10 seconds it was filling up the seam with a thin line of fresh oil again:
i figured if it was weeping this much at idle oil pressure, i definitely didn't want to find out what it would do at 60-70psi trying to merge onto the highway at high RPM.
took it back off, checked over my work, and everything looked like it was supposed to. as far as i know its a legit OEM housing, and not a Chinese knockoff (purchased from McGeorge Toyota's online sales). The filter and o-rings were also OEM components bought from Toyotapartsdeal.com, so i feel like everything should have worked since they were factory parts.
i went back to the polymer unit with a fresh o-ring and it snugged up perfectly with no weeping at all. as far as i've been able to tell, i can't find any instance of the standard polymer housing failing in normal use while on a running engine. all the stories of breakage seem to be from installation error. i think i'll take my chances and just keep a second polymer housing around should the need ever arise.
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There should be some resistance so sounds like the oring isn’t in the right location. Could have installed in wrong location or slipped out of position.
I put a lot of oil on the oring and inside the housing on the engine. I also thread it on the housing till resistance then pull it out to check the oring. I’ll then put more oil to the oring and install. Probably don’t need to check it but I do.
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08-03-2020, 12:24 PM
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#29
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Find myself thinking if there's a conversion kit to use a normal oil filter? What's the logic behind the cartridge system, besides bean counting?
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08-03-2020, 12:26 PM
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#30
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Can't say I've had that problem with the metal housing. It spins freely until I get to the o-ring, then there is resistance, then it seats. It almost sounds like you guys are experiencing an o-ring issue.
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