I second the purchase of the motivx kit. It is very nice and should last more than the lifetime of the vehicle. The filter drain tool makes the job so much cleaner. I also installed the FUMOTO F103S LC-10 Lever Clip... Amazon.com: Fumoto F103S LC-10 Lever Clip FS-Series Engine Oil Drain Valve: Automotive
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http://FUMOTO F103S LC-10 Lever Clip...p_mob_ap_share

I swapped my housing out for the aluminum one but didn't change out the metal center from the plastic housing. Is it that big of a deal?

Yes, it affects how the canister seats.

My aluminum housing seemed to fit just fine. I had zero issues installing it no leaks ect... I guess ill change my oil a little sooner and fix it.

I am doing the same thing with the Toyota metal housing in a week or two. Should make it a lot easier and cleaner to just run both tubes into the container

just attempted to install my OEM Toyota metal housing this weekend during a routine oil change, and with everyone else's success stories it seems like i'm "That Guy" who couldn't get it to work.

i noticed during installation like everyone else has mentioned; there was almost no resistance once the o-ring engaged the filter mount, the housing just bottomed out against the mount and that was it. the center tube was properly swapped, i lubed the o-ring and installed in the right channel, and it was torqued to spec. upon startup i had the presence of mind to leave the skidplates off and observe for any leaks. i immediately saw weeping around the housing-to-mount seam, and wiped it off. within 10 seconds it was filling up the seam with a thin line of fresh oil again:


i figured if it was weeping this much at idle oil pressure, i definitely didn't want to find out what it would do at 60-70psi trying to merge onto the highway at high RPM.

took it back off, checked over my work, and everything looked like it was supposed to. as far as i know its a legit OEM housing, and not a Chinese knockoff (purchased from McGeorge Toyota's online sales). The filter and o-rings were also OEM components bought from Toyotapartsdeal.com, so i feel like everything should have worked since they were factory parts.

i went back to the polymer unit with a fresh o-ring and it snugged up perfectly with no weeping at all. as far as i've been able to tell, i can't find any instance of the standard polymer housing failing in normal use while on a running engine. all the stories of breakage seem to be from installation error. i think i'll take my chances and just keep a second polymer housing around should the need ever arise.

There should be some resistance so sounds like the oring isn’t in the right location. Could have installed in wrong location or slipped out of position.
I put a lot of oil on the oring and inside the housing on the engine. I also thread it on the housing till resistance then pull it out to check the oring. I’ll then put more oil to the oring and install. Probably don’t need to check it but I do.

Find myself thinking if there's a conversion kit to use a normal oil filter? What's the logic behind the cartridge system, besides bean counting?

Can't say I've had that problem with the metal housing. It spins freely until I get to the o-ring, then there is resistance, then it seats. It almost sounds like you guys are experiencing an o-ring issue.

my first thought was that i screwed up the o-ring installation, which is easy to do since there's a big gap between the end of the threads and the actual channel where the o-ring sits...so its easy at first glance to get it in the wrong place.

when i took it back off the o-ring was right where it should be. there appeared to be nothing wrong with the installation and i really checked over everything carefully because so many people had no issue with this so i was sure i had done something wrong.

there was zero resistance when it was getting tightened down. the ring was in the right place so i wonder if it did manage to catch and shift out of position due to a lack of lube on the inside of the housing. what i don't understand is that the polymer housing had no issue seeing resistance and seating properly when i cleaned up the housing the exact same way. maybe it was a bum o-ring, but i feel like the odds of that are pretty low for an OEM product.

i may give it another shot on another oil change but its been a real PITA so far for a mod that the truck doesn't necessarily need, provided the stock unit isn't overtightened.

The Motivx oil filter socket sucks because it has loose tolerances around the flats and relies on the tabs which break.

I use this forged filter socket that has no slots for the ears and has close tolerances on the flats which will not slip.

Amazon.com: Tool Guy Republic Forged Chrome Vanadium Oil Filter Wrench Socket for Toyota, Lexus, Scion, Type Oil Filter Housings - 64mm 14 Flats: Automotive

After 2 'free' oil changes, my filter canister was stuck on pretty good. This filter socket had no troubles removing it and did not slip or mangle up the flats on the caniser.