ICS Fab did finally issue just a "peep". Only after I sent an email asking for an update whenever they were working in the office.

I received an email Saturday afternoon saying they were "processing most orders this weekend" and that I should expect a tracking number yesterday or today... but nothing has been sent to me.

Not feeling good about their ability to deliver .

They'll deliver, just be patient padowan….got mine and am just waiting on more parts for my cb before I install.

Received mine probably a week from ordering. Looks solid, waiting for time to actually installing it!!!

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Does anyone know where I can get another rubber grommet in that size? Wanted to drill another hole for a different cable on the other side.

I have a 10 day trip coming up and I thought I would have already received and installed the mount by now. I don't want to be in a rush to get it installed on the night before the trip. I already have the other parts for USB power outlets, RAM mounts and so on. Just the actual ICS Fab bracket is missing.

Note that I had no communications with them until I took the initiative, emailed them and inquired as to why I had not heard anything. Late last night they finally generated a USPS label & number but the actual package is still not in the hands of USPS.

I'm jealous! Mine still hasn't shipped and tomorrow will make it a week since I ordered. Am hoping I'll have enough time to get it installed before my next trip. Am also hoping the folks at ICS are staying healthy in these crazy times.

I did not receive my ICS Fab mount until Wednesday afternoon. I spent most of Thursday struggling with one fitment issue. The forward "struts" are bent at right angles to the main deck. The right strut matched my 2018's bezel just fine as it is angular. However the left strut was a problem because the bezel's side is rounded, not squared off. Simply bolting the strut down would warp the bezel which would not mate back into the dash properly. I managed to add some "curve" to the strut and obtain a fairly perfect fit.

The deck now has my satellite messenger on a RAM mount, my Engel fridge's temperature display and my radar detector. For the latter I just lashed it down with zip ties until I can come up with a cradle.





For USB power I utilized some existing items I had on hand to provide 4 outlets.

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Its a grommet assortment kit, am going with a larger grommet myself for my CB power and the USB power cord as well as another grommet for the coax cable for the CB antennae on the on the opposite side. Good luck.

Almost all my parts are in will be installing in June...will post pics then.

just got my kit in, ordered on friday and he shipped out saturday morning. shipped out from southern california so it was here super quick.

just waiting on mounts from tackform to come in and ill do install tomorrow.

pro tip(s)
-use snips for trimming the plastics inside for the nylok nut. i tried using a dremel and it sucked.
-the insulation on the harness provided by ICS is thicker than what's on your car. easiest way is to just strip it (ics harness) beforehand and use the bite connector after the fact.
-just pull the center console plastics. it will be SIGNIFICANTLY easier. i have large hands. it took me about 15 minutes of violating the 12v socket just to get the stupid connector out.
-you will REQUIRE a straight up philips head screwdriver, no multi-bit drivers will fit the slots to screw in the rear mounts.

Finally got the time to do my install. Alls that left is to hang the CB mike holder clip and attach a PL-259 connector to my coax...and clean up all the sweat I left behind...its been hellatiously hot here in Florida lately.

Had a few more cables to route then just the USB port charging cable, also had the cb power supply cord, cb coax, cb pa speaker wire, and scan gauge connector wire to route. Put a different size grommet on the right side in the location shown for the power cables and couldn't put a grommet on the left side for the coax, pa, and scan gauge wires. The location in the ICS Fab mounting instructional video was only large enough for their very small grommet. There is also a lot of ribs on the underside of the radio bezel which gives it strength and did not want to compromise it in this way. The locations shown for the cable routing through the bezel have no ribs an just barely gave me enough room for a 1/2" hole.

Instead of tapping into the 12 volt socket for power to the USB port, Ran a power wire directly from the battery (10 amp fuse at battery positive end) along with the coax for hood lip mount antenna and the pa speaker wire through the large grommet where the main wire loom runs through the firewall. Used a wire insertion tool and it made a clean hole through the grommet which stretched and closed up nicely around the wires. Actually pulled one wire through the wire insertion tool and then taped and pulled the wiring from the engine compartment to the cab. Then routed the wiring under the dash with the scan gauge wire behind the head unit to its current outlets.

Very satisfied with the outcome, very sturdy mount. It was a little hard to mark the spot to drill on the drivers side of the radio bezel because the way the dash is made, use a small nail instead of a punch as shown in the ICS Fab video, the bezels around the dic get in the way of the punch handle not allowing you to mark the hole correctly. Other than that great product and instructional video.

I got mine installed last weekend. I have ordered a new Ram ball base for my phone mount so I'm waiting for that. The USB is not wired up just yet. I'm very happy with how solid it is. I was afraid it would be wobbly because of my aftermarket radio bezel.

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Mine is arriving sometime today. The one thing I am concerned about though is that you have to tap into the cigarette lighter wires for the USB power.

Does anyone know where I can buy the male and female plugs that the 12V power connects to? I'd rather just make a spliter that splits the 12V line instead of using the supplied wiretaps.

I haven't looked but it may be a standard 12 volt connector such as:

This is a screen cap I took from the instruction video. It looks like it might be different.

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