12-20-2021, 03:50 AM
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#46
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I've got the amp going in just after Christmas and have the Kicker 48CWRT84 Shallow Mount 8" on the way for the swap. I'm going to bridge the rear 2 channels on a 4 channel amp and run about 200W to the sub - just what I need. Front 2 channels will be powering the Kicker 3-way 6x9s in the front door to round everything out. Won't be a perfect solution coming from a true five channel/LC7i/10" system in my F-150, but I think it'll scratch the itch on a budget without taking up any storage room.
In terms of pulling out the rear panel and installing the JBL factory box, anything too cosmic to look out for? All of the videos and step by steps I've seen have the third row (I don't have it), so I'd imagine it would be a different process to yank it out. I'm still in the kid gloves phase so trying to understand what I'm doing before I start pulling out body panels.
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12-20-2021, 11:29 AM
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#47
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Quote:
Originally Posted by T4RandTacos
I've got the amp going in just after Christmas and have the Kicker 48CWRT84 Shallow Mount 8" on the way for the swap. I'm going to bridge the rear 2 channels on a 4 channel amp and run about 200W to the sub - just what I need. Front 2 channels will be powering the Kicker 3-way 6x9s in the front door to round everything out. Won't be a perfect solution coming from a true five channel/LC7i/10" system in my F-150, but I think it'll scratch the itch on a budget without taking up any storage room.
In terms of pulling out the rear panel and installing the JBL factory box, anything too cosmic to look out for? All of the videos and step by steps I've seen have the third row (I don't have it), so I'd imagine it would be a different process to yank it out. I'm still in the kid gloves phase so trying to understand what I'm doing before I start pulling out body panels.
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If you don't have the third row you'll have a lot less bolts and a lot less crap in the way to remove
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2017 Nautical Blue SR5 Premium - Black Emblems, AFE 76mm TB, AFE Momentum GT Intake, URD MAF Calibrator, Borla Touring Cat-Back Exhaust, VR ECU Tune, RCI Skid Plate, Morimoto MLED 2.0 Headlight Retrofit, Morimoto LED Fogs, Eagle Eye Smoked Black Tail Lights, FyreFlys LED Interior, Meso Puddle Lights, Tinted Mirror Turn Signals, Smoked Amber Raptor Lights, Odyssey 34 Battery, 32" LED Bar with Rago Hidden Brackets, Rago Molle Panels, Side Shooter LED Ditch Lights, sPod w/ PowerTray, Raceline Matte Bronze Wheels w/ Cooper Discoverer RTX, CaliRaised Rock Sliders, BajaRack Full Length Roof Rack, Kenwood DMX1057XR, Infinity Kappa Door Speakers and 3.5's in dash, JL 8w3v3 in JBL Enclosure, Husky Weather Beaters, Blackvue DR900S Dash Cams
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12-20-2021, 11:47 PM
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#48
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 97BlackAckCL
If you don't have the third row you'll have a lot less bolts and a lot less crap in the way to remove
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"Less bolts" and "less crap" are both good to hear lol
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12-21-2021, 12:54 PM
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#49
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Quote:
Originally Posted by T4RandTacos
"Less bolts" and "less crap" are both good to hear lol
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For sure man, moving 50 lb seats out of the way is not my favorite part of that rear trunk removal
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2017 Nautical Blue SR5 Premium - Black Emblems, AFE 76mm TB, AFE Momentum GT Intake, URD MAF Calibrator, Borla Touring Cat-Back Exhaust, VR ECU Tune, RCI Skid Plate, Morimoto MLED 2.0 Headlight Retrofit, Morimoto LED Fogs, Eagle Eye Smoked Black Tail Lights, FyreFlys LED Interior, Meso Puddle Lights, Tinted Mirror Turn Signals, Smoked Amber Raptor Lights, Odyssey 34 Battery, 32" LED Bar with Rago Hidden Brackets, Rago Molle Panels, Side Shooter LED Ditch Lights, sPod w/ PowerTray, Raceline Matte Bronze Wheels w/ Cooper Discoverer RTX, CaliRaised Rock Sliders, BajaRack Full Length Roof Rack, Kenwood DMX1057XR, Infinity Kappa Door Speakers and 3.5's in dash, JL 8w3v3 in JBL Enclosure, Husky Weather Beaters, Blackvue DR900S Dash Cams
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06-20-2022, 09:41 PM
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#50
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Join Date: Dec 2011
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Quote:
Originally Posted by T4RandTacos
In terms of pulling out the rear panel and installing the JBL factory box, anything too cosmic to look out for? All of the videos and step by steps I've seen have the third row (I don't have it), so I'd imagine it would be a different process to yank it out. I'm still in the kid gloves phase so trying to understand what I'm doing before I start pulling out body panels.
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I just removed my rear panel in a 2016 Trail no 3rd row. You have to remove the rear passenger side seat 3 bolts and the hinge that the seat rides in traps the panel so you have to remove that as well. You also have to pry out the recline lever and there are two bolts in there that need to be removed. I had to remove that flap in the rear (Two bolts that have the tie downs) and the tie down in the far back passenger side. The panel also has 3 bolts in it that need to be removed. It wasnt difficult but i was going at it blind and was surprised how much i actually had to remove to get that panel off.
Almost forgot the rear passenger seat belt lower bolt needs to be removed as well...
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09-23-2022, 09:57 PM
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#51
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Join Date: Sep 2010
Location: Illinois
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Part number clarification
Sorry I’m late to the party…. I had been wanting to put the OEM JBL enclosure in my ol’ 2010 SR5 for many years but couldn’t justify the $400+ price tag…. Well I took a gamble on the 86150-35080 which is significantly less but listed for 2017+ I believe. Showed up today and fits like a glove. Sub was included. I’ll post a pic after it’s finished, but it just required little trimming of the main panel.
So, in case it hasn’t been answered….. The less expensive 35080 includes a sub and fits everything from 2010-present.
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09-24-2022, 03:01 PM
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#52
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Quote:
Originally Posted by eleven01
Sorry I’m late to the party…. I had been wanting to put the OEM JBL enclosure in my ol’ 2010 SR5 for many years but couldn’t justify the $400+ price tag…. Well I took a gamble on the 86150-35080 which is significantly less but listed for 2017+ I believe. Showed up today and fits like a glove. Sub was included. I’ll post a pic after it’s finished, but it just required little trimming of the main panel.
So, in case it hasn’t been answered….. The less expensive 35080 includes a sub and fits everything from 2010-present.
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Thanks for confirming that's the one that I've been telling everyone to get
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2017 Nautical Blue SR5 Premium - Black Emblems, AFE 76mm TB, AFE Momentum GT Intake, URD MAF Calibrator, Borla Touring Cat-Back Exhaust, VR ECU Tune, RCI Skid Plate, Morimoto MLED 2.0 Headlight Retrofit, Morimoto LED Fogs, Eagle Eye Smoked Black Tail Lights, FyreFlys LED Interior, Meso Puddle Lights, Tinted Mirror Turn Signals, Smoked Amber Raptor Lights, Odyssey 34 Battery, 32" LED Bar with Rago Hidden Brackets, Rago Molle Panels, Side Shooter LED Ditch Lights, sPod w/ PowerTray, Raceline Matte Bronze Wheels w/ Cooper Discoverer RTX, CaliRaised Rock Sliders, BajaRack Full Length Roof Rack, Kenwood DMX1057XR, Infinity Kappa Door Speakers and 3.5's in dash, JL 8w3v3 in JBL Enclosure, Husky Weather Beaters, Blackvue DR900S Dash Cams
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09-25-2022, 09:04 PM
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#53
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Join Date: Sep 2022
Location: Indianapolis
Posts: 24
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I attempted this. I bought the enclosure (newer one), JLw8v3, alpine amp, and I even bought the whole rear interior quarter panel. It looked great and looked very factory obviously…but… I thought it sounded terrible.
I had a horrible rattle through the quarter panel. I tried laying down some dynamat type stuff all inside the panel and still sounded bad. Not sure what happened, but I took it all back out. I returned the interior panel and sold the enclosure on marketplace.
Love to see someone else successfully do it and it sound good. I thought about getting the taco tunes box but they don’t answer emails. Thought about the audio designs box, though now I use the storage.
Maybe try fiberglassing one myself….
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09-28-2022, 01:58 PM
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#54
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Surprised to hear that, I have the 8w3v and the stock panel and no rattles whatsoever
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2017 Nautical Blue SR5 Premium - Black Emblems, AFE 76mm TB, AFE Momentum GT Intake, URD MAF Calibrator, Borla Touring Cat-Back Exhaust, VR ECU Tune, RCI Skid Plate, Morimoto MLED 2.0 Headlight Retrofit, Morimoto LED Fogs, Eagle Eye Smoked Black Tail Lights, FyreFlys LED Interior, Meso Puddle Lights, Tinted Mirror Turn Signals, Smoked Amber Raptor Lights, Odyssey 34 Battery, 32" LED Bar with Rago Hidden Brackets, Rago Molle Panels, Side Shooter LED Ditch Lights, sPod w/ PowerTray, Raceline Matte Bronze Wheels w/ Cooper Discoverer RTX, CaliRaised Rock Sliders, BajaRack Full Length Roof Rack, Kenwood DMX1057XR, Infinity Kappa Door Speakers and 3.5's in dash, JL 8w3v3 in JBL Enclosure, Husky Weather Beaters, Blackvue DR900S Dash Cams
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05-07-2023, 09:41 PM
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#55
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Join Date: May 2023
Location: SW Washington
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Quote:
Originally Posted by gordy
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Really hope you see this post. I just got a 2016 4Runner SR5. The Toyota dealer messed up on something(whole different story) and to make it right, I asked them to order me the factory JBL sub enclosure since this forum confirmed it would fit. So I got it for free luckily.
Anyway, being the NON-JBL system, it really sucks. Lol! But I replaced all the front and rear door speakers and the hatch. Made a huge difference alone running off the stock unit.
I’m going to upgrade the head unit down the road, but for now I’m going to get an amp and a sub going first.
I want JL Audio for both.
Debating on saving $220 and throwing in the JD250/1 amp and 8W1v3-4 sub. I’d rather have the W3 sub but I’m almost worried that it’ll over power the door speakers too much. Sounds like your door speakers are amplified so you wouldn’t have that problem. What route do you think I should go?
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05-08-2023, 10:47 PM
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#56
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Quote:
Originally Posted by damon323
Really hope you see this post. I just got a 2016 4Runner SR5. The Toyota dealer messed up on something(whole different story) and to make it right, I asked them to order me the factory JBL sub enclosure since this forum confirmed it would fit. So I got it for free luckily.
Anyway, being the NON-JBL system, it really sucks. Lol! But I replaced all the front and rear door speakers and the hatch. Made a huge difference alone running off the stock unit.
I’m going to upgrade the head unit down the road, but for now I’m going to get an amp and a sub going first.
I want JL Audio for both.
Debating on saving $220 and throwing in the JD250/1 amp and 8W1v3-4 sub. I’d rather have the W3 sub but I’m almost worried that it’ll over power the door speakers too much. Sounds like your door speakers are amplified so you wouldn’t have that problem. What route do you think I should go?
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Really depends on how much power you're trying to push, my 8w3v3 sounds amazing with the JD250/1 and I wouldn't trade it for the world. I had a weaker 8w3v2 and it wasn't enough for me. Honestly I'd say spring for the w3 but it's your money. I've had my w3 for 4 years and I absolutely love it. I replaced all my stock speakers and head unit. The other day I was rocking and thought, wow my god I can't believe that's an 8" I've had dual 12's for years and I'm more than happy with my 8w3
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2017 Nautical Blue SR5 Premium - Black Emblems, AFE 76mm TB, AFE Momentum GT Intake, URD MAF Calibrator, Borla Touring Cat-Back Exhaust, VR ECU Tune, RCI Skid Plate, Morimoto MLED 2.0 Headlight Retrofit, Morimoto LED Fogs, Eagle Eye Smoked Black Tail Lights, FyreFlys LED Interior, Meso Puddle Lights, Tinted Mirror Turn Signals, Smoked Amber Raptor Lights, Odyssey 34 Battery, 32" LED Bar with Rago Hidden Brackets, Rago Molle Panels, Side Shooter LED Ditch Lights, sPod w/ PowerTray, Raceline Matte Bronze Wheels w/ Cooper Discoverer RTX, CaliRaised Rock Sliders, BajaRack Full Length Roof Rack, Kenwood DMX1057XR, Infinity Kappa Door Speakers and 3.5's in dash, JL 8w3v3 in JBL Enclosure, Husky Weather Beaters, Blackvue DR900S Dash Cams
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05-12-2023, 01:06 AM
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#57
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Join Date: May 2023
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bugkillr
This looks good I think.
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Dude! Please tell me how you made that mesh cover! That’s the best looking work I’ve seen on these! I’m putting the exact same sub, but I don’t want it to look terrible. I have the OEM box that I scored from my local Toyota dealer. I need to know how you made that!
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05-23-2023, 10:34 PM
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#58
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Join Date: Jan 2016
Location: Sacramento
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Bought the panel off a member here and upgraded the sub and amp
Sent from my SM-G998U1 using Tapatalk
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05-24-2023, 11:11 AM
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#59
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Looks great! I'm glad to see so many people doing this mod
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2017 Nautical Blue SR5 Premium - Black Emblems, AFE 76mm TB, AFE Momentum GT Intake, URD MAF Calibrator, Borla Touring Cat-Back Exhaust, VR ECU Tune, RCI Skid Plate, Morimoto MLED 2.0 Headlight Retrofit, Morimoto LED Fogs, Eagle Eye Smoked Black Tail Lights, FyreFlys LED Interior, Meso Puddle Lights, Tinted Mirror Turn Signals, Smoked Amber Raptor Lights, Odyssey 34 Battery, 32" LED Bar with Rago Hidden Brackets, Rago Molle Panels, Side Shooter LED Ditch Lights, sPod w/ PowerTray, Raceline Matte Bronze Wheels w/ Cooper Discoverer RTX, CaliRaised Rock Sliders, BajaRack Full Length Roof Rack, Kenwood DMX1057XR, Infinity Kappa Door Speakers and 3.5's in dash, JL 8w3v3 in JBL Enclosure, Husky Weather Beaters, Blackvue DR900S Dash Cams
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10-11-2023, 09:46 PM
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#60
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 97BlackAckCL
Really depends on how much power you're trying to push, my 8w3v3 sounds amazing with the JD250/1 and I wouldn't trade it for the world. I had a weaker 8w3v2 and it wasn't enough for me. Honestly I'd say spring for the w3 but it's your money. I've had my w3 for 4 years and I absolutely love it. I replaced all my stock speakers and head unit. The other day I was rocking and thought, wow my god I can't believe that's an 8" I've had dual 12's for years and I'm more than happy with my 8w3
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Hope you get my message! You were right Bro, the JL Audio 8” W1v3 wasn’t enough in the factory sub enclosure. I have it paired up to a JL 5 channel RD900/5. I don’t know what I was thinking. My door speakers alone are getting 70 watts per channel, and I’m maxing my W1 out at 150 watts..? Lol! That was dumb of me.
So it sounds like you are completely happy with the 8 inch W3 in your factory sub enclosure. I’d get the W3 in a heartbeat at this point, but my 5 channel JL amp only puts out 225 watts at 4 ohms, which is what the impedance of the W3.
So I’m thinking on the new Audio Control 8 inch subs that just came out. They have a 2 ohm version that can do 350 watts. Looks to be similar dimensions for fitting in the JBL sub enclosure. Just to recap, I have a non JBL system in my 2016 SR5, I just obtained the enclosure and bolted it in.
You are one of the few people that understands my situation. Please let me know your thoughts.
Ps- The Sony AX150 head unit I got from Walmart for $250 bucks is absolutel crap. Lol! I just bought a Pioneer 2700NEX that is on the way.
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