Beginner Fluid Maintenance - Page 3 - Toyota 4Runner Forum

renau001 · 12-12-2020, 06:01 PM

thank you sir

1000MPH · 12-12-2020, 10:22 PM

Interesting when I google that new transfer case (VF2CM) there’s a discussion on Tacoma World similar to ours about the T/C fluid. Some people on there reported shifting issues using alternative fluids. I’d take that with a grain of salt but thought I’d report it. There’s also pdf about developing a thinner fluid to improve efficiency.
‘16-newer Transfer Cases | Tacoma World

Edits: Transfer Case!

Captsolo · 01-05-2021, 06:30 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by 4RMDNA

Hi, I have a 2020 4Runner SR5 4WD. I did my oil change at 5500 a few days ago and I'm having issues with reading the oil level. The level keeps showing that it is overfilled (about 2-3 cm above the second dot). I've read online about how others are having issues as well. I used mobil 1 so it is very clear which doesn't help obviously. I put in the full 6.6 Qt after draining everything. Do you have any advice on what I should do to get an accurate reading? Should I drain some of it out? Thank you!

I did the same thing with my 2005. Had to get underneath and drain off a quart or so.

Important thing is to change every 5000 miles with right stuff. I like conventional. Tried synthetic. Just a waste of money IMO. Conventional is better IMO. 10,000 / 20000 mile oil changes and you get “mud” in your crank case!

DougR · 01-05-2021, 07:04 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Captsolo

... Important thing is to change every 5000 miles with right stuff ... 10,000 / 20000 mile oil changes and you get “mud” in your crank case!

Your location, the Bahamas, should qualify as "severe service" or "special operating conditions" so, a shorter OCI is recommended. Perhaps you have had an oil analysis to help determine that 5000 miles is the limit under the conditions in which your vehicle operates? Short frequent trips? Slow stop and go traffic? Towing? Commercial use? Heavy vehicle load? High humidity? Salty air ... it all adds up to require frequent engine, transmission and gear oil changes.

renau001 · 01-05-2021, 08:58 PM

Just for reference, it is not difficult to get an accurate oil reading, even on these smooth dipsticks.

1) warm engine
2) shut off engine
3) remove dipstick promptly
4) wait 5 mins
5) insert dipstick slowly
6) wait 10 seconds
7) remove dipstick slowly
8) read level

I’m sure there are other ways, but I get a perfect, consistent reading this way every time with no splotchiness or creep up the sides that makes it hard to read. All the oil in the dipstick housing drains back down during the 5 minute wait.

renau001 · 02-21-2021, 06:39 PM

@DougR have you done a brake fluid flush yet? I like the look of the brake bleeder bottle you linked to.

DougEFresh2 · 02-21-2021, 08:48 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by renau001

@DougR have you done a brake fluid flush yet? I like the look of the brake bleeder bottle you linked to.

No. I bought the bottle, but it's sitting in the cabinet in my garage, atm. I'm only a couple hundred miles away from 50k, so, I'm going to be experiencing quite a few new procedures here very shortly. After I hit 50k, I'll be doing a transmission flush, brake bleed, steering fluid flush and maybe an A/C refresh, depending on how productive I'm feeling.

DougR · 02-21-2021, 09:36 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by renau001

@DougR have you done a brake fluid flush yet? I like the look of the brake bleeder bottle you linked to.

I'm DougR ... YES, the brake bleeder bottle worked very well. I easily flushed all the brake fluid.

DougEFresh2 · 02-23-2021, 06:40 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by DougR

I'm DougR ... YES, the brake bleeder bottle worked very well. I easily flushed all the brake fluid.

LOL ooops!

TravelingTaco · 02-23-2021, 09:02 PM

Amazing thread! Thank you

007Tacoma · 05-12-2021, 08:13 AM

So, this is my new favorite quick reference guide... I may actually print it, laminate it, and stick it to the side of my tool box in the garage.

Question (If you can fit it)... Could you include a pic of the serpentine belt route in that post? This particular one is courtesy of @1000MPH in this post

Quote:

Originally Posted by DougEFresh2

Engine:
Designation: 1GR-FE
Fluid Change Interval (motor oil): 7,500 miles / every year – whichever comes first
* for hard use: 5,000 miles / every 6 months – whichever comes first
Classification (Engine Oil): SAE 0W-20 (U.S.); SAE 0W-20 -or- SAE 5W-20 (Canada)
Toyota Fluid (Engine Oil): Toyota part #: 002790WQTE01
Preferred Fluid (Engine Oil): Mobil 1 0W-20 Advanced Fuel Economy Full Synthetic
Capacity: 6.6 quarts
Fuel Tank Capacity: 23 gallons
Lowest Octane gasoline allowed: 87 (You must only use unleaded gasoline)
Highest Ethanol percentage allowed: 15% (E15)
Oil Filler Cap: Toyota part #: 1218031020 (hand tight)
Oil Filler Cap Gasket: Toyota part #: 9043037004
Oil Pan Drain Plug: Toyota part #: 9034112012 (thread size: M12-1.25) (socket size: 14mm; torque: 30 ft·lbf)
Oil Pan Drain Plug Gasket: Toyota part #: 9043012031
Oil Filter Cap Assembly: Toyota part #: 1565038020 (18 ft·lbf)
* Use the Motivx Tools Oil Filter Wrench for Toyota, Lexus, and Scion 2.0 To 5.7 Liter Engines with 64mm
Cartridge Style Oil Filter System for the Oil Filter Cap Assembly.
Oil Filter Element: Toyota part #: 04152YZZA5
Oil Filter Cap O-Ring (big): Toyota part #: 9030179006
Oil Filter Cap O-Ring (small): Toyota part #: 9672335028
Oil Filter Drain Plug: Toyota part #: 1564331050 (drive size: 3/8"; torque: 10 ft·lbf)
(5) Front Bumper Cover Lower bolts: Toyota part #: 9010906330 (socket size: 10mm; torque: 71 INCH-lbs)
(10) Under Cover Assembly/Sub & Seal bolts: Toyota part #: 9008011373 (socket size: 12mm; torque: 21 ft·lbf)
Drive / Serpentine Belt: Toyota part #: 90916A2015 / Bando 7PK2150
Oil Change Guide

DougEFresh2 · 05-13-2021, 12:11 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by 007Tacoma

So, this is my new favorite quick reference guide... I may actually print it, laminate it, and stick it to the side of my tool box in the garage.

Question (If you can fit it)... Could you include a pic of the serpentine belt route in that post? This particular one is courtesy of @1000MPH in this post

Thank you! I added that pic you included after I confirmed it was the same orientation as the one from the service manual. It makes me feel really accomplished when I hear feedback like this!
I originally wanted this to be more simple, however, I just couldn't stop adding more and more info to it. Hahahaha and ya, I keep a copy of the info list in my car so if I need to stop at a Toyota dealership, I don't have to have a 20 minute conversation with the parts department! lol

HEAVY WT · 05-15-2021, 10:12 PM

I find the transmission part interesting since it says we have "Sealed" transmissions. I have heard people say they start changes after 100,000m. What have people done with this. I have also see there is a difference between fluid change and fluid flush.

1000MPH · 05-15-2021, 10:32 PM

There are a lot of opinions out there. You can spend a lot of time reading threads here, tundra and taco sites, BITOG, youtube, etc.
I would say most people start to do drain and fills between 60k-120k.
The range of maintenance goes from a simple single drain n fill to a complete “flush” with pan drop and filter screen replacement.
Use your judgment based on whatever you choose is valid info.

My truck has had a pretty easy life but quite a bit of light off-road. I changed mine for the first time at 100k+.
I think after seeing the fluid and additional research I would start at 60k and do one or two drain n fills every 30k-45k.

Dynamo · 05-15-2021, 10:46 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by HEAVY WT

I find the transmission part interesting since it says we have "Sealed" transmissions. I have heard people say they start changes after 100,000m. What have people done with this. I have also see there is a difference between fluid change and fluid flush.

It is sealed in the sense that there is no dipstick so no "easy" way to change the fluid like older non-sealed transmissions. But in reality isn't actually sealed as it has a drain plug and a fill plug.

I did a transmission fluid change on my previous FJ Cruiser (same engine & transmission). I used the method of disconnecting the return line from the radiator to pump out 2 quarts at a time. There is a procedure for filling it to the correct level at the proper operating temperature. Overall I thought the job was surprisingly easy. More steps than an engine oil change but about the same level of difficulty.

As for change versus flush, I think by flush they mean using a machine that flushes out the old fluid under pressure. I have always heard that is a bad way to do it. A change I think means replacing the fluid using at most the transmission's own pumping action, or just draining and replacing the fluid in the pan. The method I used with my FJC just uses the transmission pump. Some shops will have fluid swap machines that operate by the same method.

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