thank you for this amazing thread. very helpful

Thanks for the guide. I have been using the dealer for all of my changes, up to now. My dealer is so booked that it’s almost half a month away for an appointment. I do all of my oil changes on my diesel, so not new to changing oil. Well that is what I.said before doing the 4Runner. I was able to get the oil out and everything looked good. That was until I came to the Oil filter housing. Was able to drain out the oil no problem but when it came time to remove the housing, that was a no go. I started using a cheater bar but decided to back off doing that on the plastic housing. I felt I was putting a lot of pressure on the breaker bar but nothing. I didn’t want to break the housing. If anyone has experienced a oversight housing, just how much have you had to crank on the housing to make it give? I truly believe the prior oil change tech over tightened the housing.

Dealerships have almost always overtightened bolts and fittings when I used to take my vehicles in. My housing was very tight when I first did it on my 4Runner, however, I don't think it was as tight as yours is, based on your description.
What tool are you using to remove the oil filter housing?
I recommend using this: Motivx Tools MX2320
( Amazon.com: Motivx Tools MX2320-US 64.3mm 14 Flute Precision CNC Machined Aluminum Oil Filter Wrench Compatible with all Toyota and Lexus Cartridge Style Oil Filter Caps and Select Spin-On Filters : Automotive )

I used an 18" cheater pipe on a 18" breaker bar with a 27 mm 1/2 inch drive socket on a Motiv oil filter wrench. I braced one foot against the inside of a front tire, held the breaker bar extension in my left hand, and steadily applied torque with my right hand until it broke free. I had a genuine Toyota metal oil filter housing on hand to replace the plastic one.

Thanks, I do have the Motiv MX2320 and a 64mm x 14 flute type with the slots. It is really tight.

Thanks for sharing your experience. I will give it a go again this weekend with a bigger bar. Having a spare on hand may be a good idea though. I will be doing the fluids from now on.

This is a common problem. When you finally get it off you might want to transition to the metal oil filter housing like so many have. If you break tabs on the plastic housing you can try loosening it with a plumber’s pipe wrench that has wide jaws. Good luck.

Question about Transfer case oil.

The requirement is 75w and the alternative listed is Royal Purple Synchromax......which doesn't give a specific viscosity but says it's a "light viscosity fluid" best used as a replacement for manual transmissions that call for ATF.

Thoughts?

I just replaced mine with amsoil 75/90 severe synthetic. Dealer didn't even have oe fluid available as they used bulk mobil 1 75/90. Same stuff they put in diffs.

EXCELLENT! Thanks much, jim