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Old 06-22-2021, 02:24 AM #256
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How many miles total on that suspension so far? Thatís great customer service.
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Old 06-22-2021, 07:50 PM #257
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Regdog77 View Post
How many miles total on that suspension so far? Thatís great customer service.
Without looking at my records...15-16K miles. I was a little bit nervous after hearing about Bilstein and Toytec deny warranty claims. They didn't ask about off-roading or anything. Just sent a picture of the strut body and they approved it within an hour or so. Got the shipping notice this morning.
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Old 06-22-2021, 08:11 PM #258
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Quote:
Originally Posted by RedRunner_87 View Post
Without looking at my records...15-16K miles. I was a little bit nervous after hearing about Bilstein and Toytec deny warranty claims. They didn't ask about off-roading or anything. Just sent a picture of the strut body and they approved it within an hour or so. Got the shipping notice this morning.
thats some awesome product support (despite my hatred for twin tube and foam shocks you cant deny how great this is)
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Old 06-28-2021, 05:10 PM #259
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UPDATE: Emailed Monday and was approved for a warranty strut. Strut arrived on Saturday. Pretty quick shipping on the strut!

Untitled by redrunner87, on Flickr
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1996 T4R Limited: E-Locked l 285 KO2's l Toytec BOSS w Superflex l SS Panhard l Ultra Gauge l AIRAID MIT l Drifter CB Mount l AOF Sliders l Weathertech's l Hilux 167 Snorke l Cobra 19DXIV l Ditch Lights l Relentless Front Bumper l Superwinch Tiger Shark l Paranoid Fab Din Switch
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Old 08-25-2021, 10:54 AM #260
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Does anyone have KDSS Lean after installation along with 5,000+ miles? Mine leans to the passenger side pretty bad. I have tried to do the documented KDSS fix per the manual but I cannot get it better than the 7/8th tolerance level. After a while, it goes outside of that which is causing tire rubbing issues. That can be fixed pretty easily but I would like to fix the lean! With so many different suspensions I thought I would ask if anyone else with the Ironman Foam Cell is experiencing this. No need to talk about other setups in this thread. I will be adding some more general questions to a specific KDSS Lean thread.

Thanks!
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Old 08-25-2021, 06:01 PM #261
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I've put around 8000 miles on my Foamcell pros with KDSS, no issues with lean. Initially I got 3.5 inch in front and 3 in the back, the front settled to 3 inches now. I did have to do zero point calibration after the lift, my dash was a Christmas tree and had no traction on.

The performance springs (3inch front) have 827lbs/in spring rate, it makes more sense on a V8 GX, but usually this only effects hitting a speedbump with both tires at same time.. you get very little compression. Once skids, bumper, winch come on, it will hopefully be little more squishy.

Off road they have been great. Overall, aside from the spring rate, I'm happy

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Old 08-25-2021, 06:16 PM #262
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Ironman suspension. 70K miles

Love this Australian product. 70K miles and counting
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Ironman Foam Cell Pro-37df605c-1a05-4f20-9ad1-3091ef062f86-jpeg 
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Old 08-26-2021, 11:32 AM #263
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 1Louder View Post
Does anyone have KDSS Lean after installation along with 5,000+ miles? Mine leans to the passenger side pretty bad. I have tried to do the documented KDSS fix per the manual but I cannot get it better than the 7/8th tolerance level. After a while, it goes outside of that which is causing tire rubbing issues. That can be fixed pretty easily but I would like to fix the lean! With so many different suspensions I thought I would ask if anyone else with the Ironman Foam Cell is experiencing this. No need to talk about other setups in this thread. I will be adding some more general questions to a specific KDSS Lean thread.

Thanks!

I have a GX and I lean towards the driverís side which is normal with the battery and KDSS weight.

Iím looking into adjusting the front driverís side front shock. I have maybe 1/2Ē difference but itís enough that itís definitely noticeable.


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Old 08-26-2021, 11:33 AM #264
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Quote:
Originally Posted by SilverTEP View Post
I've put around 8000 miles on my Foamcell pros with KDSS, no issues with lean. Initially I got 3.5 inch in front and 3 in the back, the front settled to 3 inches now. I did have to do zero point calibration after the lift, my dash was a Christmas tree and had no traction on.

The performance springs (3inch front) have 827lbs/in spring rate, it makes more sense on a V8 GX, but usually this only effects hitting a speedbump with both tires at same time.. you get very little compression. Once skids, bumper, winch come on, it will hopefully be little more squishy.

Off road they have been great. Overall, aside from the spring rate, I'm happy


Did you extend your rear brake lines? I have the same setup on my GX but havenít extended the lines yet. It seems like thereís not a ton of people doing it.


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Old 09-13-2021, 10:39 PM #265
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10k mile review:
Ironman Foam Cell Pro "Stage 2":
Stock load springs
with UCAs
no new trackbar or KDSS spacers (wasn't offered at the time, not sure I need them as my 'lean' is the same as stock 3/8~1/2" depending upon gas tank etc).
I do have some 'armor' as far as full aluminum skids and steel sliders (mostly front suspension weight).
It was under $1400 bucks shipped at the start of the pandemic... not sure I'd pay the current pandemic pricing for these or others (availability is non-existent across the board it would seem).

The on road ride has been good. Not too rough or too soft. Nice and controlled. Washboards have been excellent compared to stock. No noticeable fade where as stock I could feel things get soft quite quickly. Alignment tracks very well.

Rear springs have settled out at 1.75" of lift. Front coilovers are adjusted to the same lift over stock.

I've seen discussion here and some youtube videos about if the coilovers are adjustable on the vehicle. I can tell you that I have adjusted them using the following tools and steps.
Tools:
1) Ironman spanner wrench (7mm pin with a 17, 18, and 19mm hex cutouts [outside to inside of spanner], also note that this tool is beefy but I don't think they cut the hex cutouts to proper specs as I had to 'press-fit' my sockets and tap them out... tight)
2) 17mm allen socket (maximum leverage)
3) "breaker bar" (I used an 3/8" torque wrench)
4) Adapter for 17mm allen to breaker bar
5) Oil / lube (NOT WD-40)
6) 3mm allen wrench

Steps:
1) Measure height of fender to center of hub distance.
2) Subtract target height of fender to center of hub distance from measurement of 1.
3) Multiply value from step 2 by .69. This is the amount you will want to move the adjustment collar up or down.
4) Put on your PPE (glasses, gloves, etc.)
5) Make vehicle safe to work on (chalk tires etc.)
6) Loosen lug nuts (do not remove) with vehicle on the ground (remove center caps if required)
7) Jack up vehicle safely to lift wheel assembly off the ground
8) Place vehicle on appropriate jack stands and remove vehicle weight from jack
9) Remove lug nuts and wheel assembly
10) Lube threads of shock body above and below adjustment and locking collar along with joint of upper adjustment collar and spring seat collar.
11) Loosen (and remove if you'd like) set screws of adjustment and locking collar using a 3mm allen wrench
12) Loosen locking collar using the Ironman spanner wrench, 17mm allen socket, and breaker bar by turning counterclockwise a minimal amount (if reducing height, move collar down by the value in step 3).
13) Raise/lower adjustment collar by the value in step 3 using the Ironman spanner wrench, 17mm allen socket, and breaker bar by turning clockwise/counterCW (this will not be easy and will require lots of elbow grease and positioning but it can be done)
14) Reverse order of disassembly.
15) Drive around, verify you are happy with the setting, adjust as needed, go get alignment.

No spring compressor or removal of coilover required. The only thing removed from the vehicle is the appropriate wheels. No suspension (LCA, Steering Knuckle ball joints, KDSS, etc) hardware needs to be touched.

Now to address some concerns people have had over the 'foam cell pro' designs.
1) Foam! It's not oil that is foamed, it is closed cell foam (like a yoga mat or a wetsuit material)
2) Since the bubbles are encased in the closed cell foam, they don't mix with the oil
3) Since the foam is compressible (flexible rubber/nitrile/etc like o-ring material with compressible gas), thermal expansion / contraction is easily managed without the complexity of external accumulators (remote reservoirs), extra seals, etc.
4) The oil capacity is near 100% and the oil will surround the foam providing a high level of convection to the outer body (gas in an external reservoir is unlikely to convect a large amount of heat away from the oil since they are only connected through a small hose and gasses are generally poor at transferring heat)
5) As the oil heats up, the foam will compress and the system will build some pressure. Without getting into True Vapor Pressure / Reid / Vapor over Liquid ratios, it's unlikely that cavitation is a concern. The piston acts as a pump and creates a 'high' pressure side that pushes fluid to the 'low' pressure side.
6) The eyelets and other connections being rubber instead of metal to metal like heim joints (spherical bearings) provides an OEM level of noise vibration harness characteristics with high reliability.

Foam Cell Pro Testing - Ironman 4x4
Looks like they tested their setup on a shock dyno on a 200 series. While there is subjectivity to valving such as progressive, linear, and digressive, if you're not planning on the running the Baja 10 million, then these are probably a good option presuming the price is right.
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Old 09-13-2021, 10:55 PM #266
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mo_mo View Post
10k mile review:
Ironman Foam Cell Pro "Stage 2":
Stock load springs
with UCAs
no new trackbar or KDSS spacers (wasn't offered at the time, not sure I need them as my 'lean' is the same as stock 3/8~1/2" depending upon gas tank etc).
I do have some 'armor' as far as full aluminum skids and steel sliders (mostly front suspension weight).
It was under $1400 bucks shipped at the start of the pandemic... not sure I'd pay the current pandemic pricing for these or others (availability is non-existent across the board it would seem).

The on road ride has been good. Not too rough or too soft. Nice and controlled. Washboards have been excellent compared to stock. No noticeable fade where as stock I could feel things get soft quite quickly. Alignment tracks very well.

Rear springs have settled out at 1.75" of lift. Front coilovers are adjusted to the same lift over stock.

I've seen discussion here and some youtube videos about if the coilovers are adjustable on the vehicle. I can tell you that I have adjusted them using the following tools and steps.
Tools:
1) Ironman spanner wrench (7mm pin with a 17, 18, and 19mm hex cutouts [outside to inside of spanner], also note that this tool is beefy but I don't think they cut the hex cutouts to proper specs as I had to 'press-fit' my sockets and tap them out... tight)
2) 17mm allen socket (maximum leverage)
3) "breaker bar" (I used an 3/8" torque wrench)
4) Adapter for 17mm allen to breaker bar
5) Oil / lube (NOT WD-40)
6) 3mm allen wrench

Steps:
1) Measure height of fender to center of hub distance.
2) Subtract target height of fender to center of hub distance from measurement of 1.
3) Multiply value from step 2 by .69. This is the amount you will want to move the adjustment collar up or down.
4) Put on your PPE (glasses, gloves, etc.)
5) Make vehicle safe to work on (chalk tires etc.)
6) Loosen lug nuts (do not remove) with vehicle on the ground (remove center caps if required)
7) Jack up vehicle safely to lift wheel assembly off the ground
8) Place vehicle on appropriate jack stands and remove vehicle weight from jack
9) Remove lug nuts and wheel assembly
10) Lube threads of shock body above and below adjustment and locking collar along with joint of upper adjustment collar and spring seat collar.
11) Loosen (and remove if you'd like) set screws of adjustment and locking collar using a 3mm allen wrench
12) Loosen locking collar using the Ironman spanner wrench, 17mm allen socket, and breaker bar by turning counterclockwise a minimal amount (if reducing height, move collar down by the value in step 3).
13) Raise/lower adjustment collar by the value in step 3 using the Ironman spanner wrench, 17mm allen socket, and breaker bar by turning clockwise/counterCW (this will not be easy and will require lots of elbow grease and positioning but it can be done)
14) Reverse order of disassembly.
15) Drive around, verify you are happy with the setting, adjust as needed, go get alignment.

No spring compressor or removal of coilover required. The only thing removed from the vehicle is the appropriate wheels. No suspension (LCA, Steering Knuckle ball joints, KDSS, etc) hardware needs to be touched.

Now to address some concerns people have had over the 'foam cell pro' designs.
1) Foam! It's not oil that is foamed, it is closed cell foam (like a yoga mat or a wetsuit material)
2) Since the bubbles are encased in the closed cell foam, they don't mix with the oil
3) Since the foam is compressible (flexible rubber/nitrile/etc like o-ring material with compressible gas), thermal expansion / contraction is easily managed without the complexity of external accumulators (remote reservoirs), extra seals, etc.
4) The oil capacity is near 100% and the oil will surround the foam providing a high level of convection to the outer body (gas in an external reservoir is unlikely to convect a large amount of heat away from the oil since they are only connected through a small hose and gasses are generally poor at transferring heat)
5) As the oil heats up, the foam will compress and the system will build some pressure. Without getting into True Vapor Pressure / Reid / Vapor over Liquid ratios, it's unlikely that cavitation is a concern. The piston acts as a pump and creates a 'high' pressure side that pushes fluid to the 'low' pressure side.
6) The eyelets and other connections being rubber instead of metal to metal like heim joints (spherical bearings) provides an OEM level of noise vibration harness characteristics with high reliability.

Foam Cell Pro Testing - Ironman 4x4
Looks like they tested their setup on a shock dyno on a 200 series. While there is subjectivity to valving such as progressive, linear, and digressive, if you're not planning on the running the Baja 10 million, then these are probably a good option presuming the price is right.
What height and type of spring did you go with?
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Old 09-13-2021, 11:09 PM #267
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Regdog77 View Post
What height and type of spring did you go with?
Go fish... it's in my previous post. There are better ways to get your post count up.
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Demello Hybrid Bolt On Sliders | Toyo Open Country AT III LT285/70R17 C | Ironman 4x4 Foam Cell Pro Stage 2 | Durobumps | Rago Molle Panels | Leather steering wheel cover | RCI Full Skids (Aluminum) | Drawer less drawer system and sleeping platform. | TRD CAI | RAV4 Sideview Mirrors: 87961-42D20 & 87931-42D50 | Blackvue DR650S-2CH | Cobra 75 WX ST with 4í Firestik + Magnet Roof Top Mount | MXT275 Midland GMRS radio | 3M Crystalline: Front CR70, A-B CR50, B-Aft CR40 | RRW Leather Seat Covers w/Besond Seat Heaters| 3DMax Floor Mats and Rear Husky Liner | former LT265/70R17 C Duratracs
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Old 09-14-2021, 01:39 AM #268
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mo_mo View Post
Go fish... it's in my previous post. There are better ways to get your post count up.
Sorry must of missed it. Not trying get any numbers up. Just trying to get info is all and learn new things.
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