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Old 04-22-2020, 06:20 PM #31
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I think the 4th gen model had motion sickness down for the rear passengers... people say that little thing back there is for a little trash can, but the size and shape better resembles a barf bag.

Couple that with the lacking sun glass holder... and you can really see what's lacking in the 5th.



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Old 04-22-2020, 09:02 PM #32
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since people mentioned dobinsons I took a look at their rear springs. unfortunately the only ones that are stiffer than the what I currently have are the springs rates for 600-800lbs of weight (271lb springs). my OME 2895e's are 260lb springs.

If the bushings do not help, I will take a look at other suspension options. not only for this reason, but it may be good to do an upgrade anyway in the near future.
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Old 04-23-2020, 07:47 AM #33
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Originally Posted by jdm-v35 View Post
since people mentioned dobinsons I took a look at their rear springs. unfortunately the only ones that are stiffer than the what I currently have are the springs rates for 600-800lbs of weight (271lb springs). my OME 2895e's are 260lb springs.

If the bushings do not help, I will take a look at other suspension options. not only for this reason, but it may be good to do an upgrade anyway in the near future.
You might call Dobinsons or contact Crikeymike on here. I think there is an intermediate weight spring in the 400# range, IIRC.
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Old 04-23-2020, 01:47 PM #34
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What I'm hearing here is
"Honey we need a new suspension system for our truck so it makes you happy". LOL
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Old 04-23-2020, 02:56 PM #35
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What I'm hearing here is
"Honey we need a new suspension system for our truck so it makes you happy". LOL
I wish, but not at the moment if possible. Trying to finish up engine for my other car first before doing more expensive work on the 4runner. I also do not really daily the 4runner. It is just used in bad weather, for camping, and hauling stuff for the most part. Camping drives are long though, which is usually when it comes up.
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Old 04-24-2020, 06:16 AM #36
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Originally Posted by jdm-v35 View Post
I wish, but not at the moment if possible. Trying to finish up engine for my other car first before doing more expensive work on the 4runner. I also do not really daily the 4runner. It is just used in bad weather, for camping, and hauling stuff for the most part. Camping drives are long though, which is usually when it comes up.
In that case, as it's not a daily.... generic dramamine is cheap...
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Old 04-24-2020, 01:06 PM #37
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It could be the digressive shocks. I'd say the springs you're running now should be more than enough.

Try changing the rear shocks out and put the stock ones back on. It won't cost you anything and you can see how it feels with different shock valving.
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Old 04-24-2020, 04:26 PM #38
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Originally Posted by Crikeymike View Post
It could be the digressive shocks. I'd say the springs you're running now should be more than enough.

Try changing the rear shocks out and put the stock ones back on. It won't cost you anything and you can see how it feels with different shock valving.
Thanks for the suggestion. that may be a good idea. are the stocks progressive style valving?
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Old 04-27-2020, 04:55 AM #39
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I did some work on my suspension last year that has it handling much flatter. I have the standard yellow shock OME 3” kit. The shock/spring combo adds about 3” front and 2” ish rear lift. First I swapped to sway bushings front and rear to urethane. This did result in a noticeable change on its own.

I had also installed adjustable rear sway bar links. Mine are Dobinsons, although several sources are available. The purpose here is to correct the geometry of the rear sway bar after lifting. Two reasons. Number one is to lower the ends of the sway bar so that it is as near parallel to the ground as possible. This puts it back in position to function as designed to combat rear sway. Second reason, after lifting, unless you have extended sway links to lower the ends, the travel of the sway bar is limited. So, in offroad situations, the axle droop can be limited by the sway bar’s travel. Adding the adjustable links fixes this and allows for the droop to be limited by the max extended length of the shock. Good stuff, eh?

Lastly, the panhard bar. Factory panhard geometry puts it pretty much parallel to rear axle. Lifting the suspension will change the angle on the bar. The bars function is to keep the rear axle centered under the truck and also to brace against side to side motion of the axle. It cant do either very well unless it is parallel to the axle. An adjustable panhard bar can be used to re center the rear axle under the truck, but does nothing to help with the bracing against side to side motion. A panhard correction bracket fixes both issues without replacing the bar itself. Forum member eimkeith sells these. It is a weld on bracket, but it retains factory mount positon in case you ever go back to stock ride height. After installing it extends the length of the axle bracket to get the bar parallel.

These three mods together made a great bit of improvement to handling. Its about as near to slot car handling as one can expect from a lifted vehicle.

Lastly, is this a new thing for her? I had a vertigo episode awhile back that really messed me up for about 6 months. Maybe theres medical help for her situation.

Also, my ex got car sick..unless she was driving. Let the girl wheel!
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Old 04-27-2020, 07:46 AM #40
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Quote:
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I don’t think sway bars will help your wife’s motion sickness. I don’t think it is a vehicle-dependent issue.



It’s not strange at all that she got the most sick in the back seat of a car.



I have suffered from motion sickness my whole life, and it is definitely worse in the back seat. It is easier to see where you’re going and focus on the horizon in the front seat. In an airplane, you really can’t see where you’re going, and there’s not a horizon to focus on, so I get the worst motion sickness in the air. (I get seasick looking at a boat, haha!)



I never get motion sickness if I am the driver of a car or the operator of a boat.



If I try to read as a passenger in a moving car, I feel sick almost immediately.


My friend wife get motion sickness in every car, except when she drives. Out her behind the wheel and see if it makes a difference.
I’ve never driven a KDSS version of a 4runner, but take one of those for a drive and see what happens.


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Old 04-29-2020, 10:12 AM #41
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Louisiana Overland View Post
I did some work on my suspension last year that has it handling much flatter. I have the standard yellow shock OME 3” kit. The shock/spring combo adds about 3” front and 2” ish rear lift. First I swapped to sway bushings front and rear to urethane. This did result in a noticeable change on its own.

I had also installed adjustable rear sway bar links. Mine are Dobinsons, although several sources are available. The purpose here is to correct the geometry of the rear sway bar after lifting. Two reasons. Number one is to lower the ends of the sway bar so that it is as near parallel to the ground as possible. This puts it back in position to function as designed to combat rear sway. Second reason, after lifting, unless you have extended sway links to lower the ends, the travel of the sway bar is limited. So, in offroad situations, the axle droop can be limited by the sway bar’s travel. Adding the adjustable links fixes this and allows for the droop to be limited by the max extended length of the shock. Good stuff, eh?

Lastly, the panhard bar. Factory panhard geometry puts it pretty much parallel to rear axle. Lifting the suspension will change the angle on the bar. The bars function is to keep the rear axle centered under the truck and also to brace against side to side motion of the axle. It cant do either very well unless it is parallel to the axle. An adjustable panhard bar can be used to re center the rear axle under the truck, but does nothing to help with the bracing against side to side motion. A panhard correction bracket fixes both issues without replacing the bar itself. Forum member eimkeith sells these. It is a weld on bracket, but it retains factory mount positon in case you ever go back to stock ride height. After installing it extends the length of the axle bracket to get the bar parallel.

These three mods together made a great bit of improvement to handling. Its about as near to slot car handling as one can expect from a lifted vehicle.

Lastly, is this a new thing for her? I had a vertigo episode awhile back that really messed me up for about 6 months. Maybe theres medical help for her situation.

Also, my ex got car sick..unless she was driving. Let the girl wheel!
Thanks for the info! I have bilstein 5100's and 2" OME springs front and rear. I think that I am going to try and crank the fronts up a notch to get closer to 3" and also add some preload to stiffen things up. I also got the sway bushings in and will get those installed. I have had the PCK kit but just have not got it welded in yet. My friend will do it for me, but the weather has been on and off so hopefully will get it done soon. Hopefully that combo will help.

The motion sickness is definitely not anything new. we rented a canoe on the lake one day and that made her sick, and its just something about riding in certain cars.
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Old 04-30-2020, 10:39 AM #42
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Poly sway bar bushings make a huge difference.
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Old 04-30-2020, 10:09 PM #43
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I installed the front and rear whiteline poly sway bushings. Havent installed the rear endlink poly bushings yet, and no driving yet. will update with my experience.

Upon install I can feel a significant difference in the poly vs oem rubber compound though. And mine should be "almost new". my 2018 only has 14k miles since i got it new. We will see how significantly it improves handling.
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Old 05-01-2020, 10:49 AM #44
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to add this has been mentioned before, here is a post with pictures
https://www.toyota-4runner.org/3208305-post19.html
it's best to read the complete thread, it would be wise to coat the link to prevent rust.
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Old 05-01-2020, 07:16 PM #45
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to add this has been mentioned before, here is a post with pictures
https://www.toyota-4runner.org/3208305-post19.html
it's best to read the complete thread, it would be wise to coat the link to prevent rust.
Thanks! I may actually go and buy those longer links now. I went out and bought some flex head ratcheting wrenches and changes out the rear link bushings in about 20 min.

I drove this morning and the sway bar bushings did make a noticeable difference on turns. I would recommend it. This is how it should have felt from the factory.
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