I noticed a "clunk" after installing my lift. I remember crossthreading but otherwise getting the fastener that holds the sway bar mount "tightened". As it turns out, it wasn't quite tight as the nut broke free as it got tight. Due to one fastener being loose, I suspect the other fastener flexed and broke free allowing movement. The sway bar mount had about 2mm movement which caused the clunk every time the sway bar was loaded up in a turn.
If you have remote reservoir mounts like the King's setup, repair can be tough due to the hardened cap screws (recessed) that are used to install the mount. Add to that the recovery point and it is near impossible from the outboard side. The lower radiator hose had to be disconnected to increase access to the area. A right angle drill also helps. 1 1/4" hole saw was used to cut to hole although in hind sight I'd recommend 1 1/2" to make it easier to fit the wrench in the hole.
The bolts recommended in my situation would be M10x1.25 40mm. As you can see from the pictures they are a tad long, but having a little extra leverage is useful in getting things aligned, the ones in the picture are 50mm. Blue loctite just for good measure.
The holes were then welded up and primed/painted. I'm not happy that I had to cut the frame, but it is what it is. Some have suggested just deleting the sway bar, but this is my daily driver and I think the drive quality would suffer without it.
Pilot holes. Surprisingly easy to drill through. The one backed out had enough "grab" to back that far out before spinning.
Holes with reservoir mount and recovery point (red)
Not surprised they broke free
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2016 QUICKSAND TRD PRO,Rear diff breather mod, Salex organizers, Huskyliners, CBI sliders, RCI TRD intermediate skid plate, RCI aluminum transmission skid plate, RCI STEEL transfer case skid, RCI Aluminum fuel skid and A arm skid. RagoFab modular storage panel. King extended travel front and rear with compression adjusters. 2" Toytec superflex rear springs.