Quote:
Originally Posted by Fermn
I live in flat South Florida and I daily drive my 5th Gen. I do not need a killer set up but I do want my truck to be properly lifted. My options are:
1) Bilstein coilover lift from Toytec with Total Chaos UCA (what are some benefits vs regular shock and spring set up?? )
2) OME 3'' lift with stock UCA
3) Bilstein 5100 all around with OME springs
For wheel and tires: Stock trail wheels with 285/70/17 ... Now, when it comes to this set up I have read that it will rub if I replace the UCA's so in the event that I do need to replace the wheels I would go with:
ICON Rebound 17x8.5 0MM offset with 285/70/17 KO2
I do want a set up that would be efficient and comfortable for daily driving. I don't mind keeping my stock wheels as I do like them. I would rather not spend the money on new wheels but if they are needed for proper set up then I rather do it right the first time.
I've read numerous threads but I can't seem to make up my mind - If there are any other better set ups please feel free to suggest. Thank you!
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Are you keeping the trail rims or not?
Trail rims provide the most 'neutral' offset to minimize rubbing (as best as I can tell from forum posts). Depending upon offset:
-Tire rub on the suspension components (inside)
-Tire rub on the fender well (outside)
This is one reason why vehicles with spacers often rub a lot and need a substantial amount of fender trimming along with BMCs.
Keep the stock trail rims if you can, due to their offset, if you want 285s.
You will get 'free' lift from the larger tire size.
How much suspension lift do you want? Over 2", or if you are having trouble with clearing tires, then aftermarket UCAs will allow you to improve alignment and push forward into the forward fender liner instead of the aft body mount.
Note that lift does not prevent rubbing. Full compression is full compression regardless of the lift height, and same with lock to lock of the steering. With independent suspension, the geometry is fixed. Unless you plan on modifying limit stops, then you'll rub regardless of lift height selected. Independent suspension will cycle from the same extended and compressed limits. A lift only sets a new 'nominal' within the same range of limits. Lifting means you'll have less down travel, which can make for some handling anomalies. There are extended travel suspension setups, but these typically require making the vehicle track wider to meet their goals, which is generally expensive and requires lots of modifying.
Front IFS generalities:
1) Rubber or metal/ptfe joints
-Rubber (matches OEM) : good NVH, damping, reliability, low maintenance : bad = restrictive/resistive flex
-metal/ptfe : good = free movement / flex : bad = reliability, NVH, high maintenance
Note that with Independent Suspension, movements are typically limited by geometry, not bushings/joints
2) ball joint vs. uniball
-ball joint (matches OEM) similar to the rubber pros and cons above
-uniball similar to the metal/ptfe joints above
3) Shocks
-See joint above
-Remote reservoir = decreased reliability (increased complexity)
4) Springs
-Set to the weight of your vehicle and lift height
YMMV
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Demello Hybrid Bolt On Sliders | Toyo Open Country AT III LT285/70R17 C |
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