I was told I need to change my UCA's because I am going with a 3 inch lift. So if I intall the lift and change the UCA's can I run my OFP stock wheels and tires? I was told that when I upgrade the UCA's I need to change the wheels because of the offset? I had no clue I had to change out so much.

Depends on the UCA.

Welcome to vehicle mods. It's a slippery slope.

I think some folks were having issues with JBA ucas making contact with their wheels. I have a 2 -2.25 lift in the front with Dobinson UCAs and have no contact issues between the tires/UCA

Can anyone name a couple UCA that don’t seem to have clearance issues with ORP or TRDP wheels?

Yup got JBA's can confirm had to run spacers to clear. Went with JBA's because you can get the ball joint at any autoparts store. GM balljoint.

Swapped my wheels for an offset that would clear. Running 33's. Body mount made contact throughout the changes so I hacked it off. BMC might not have been necessary if I went with a different UCA. Whats done is done...

Kevin said his dobbies worked out. You prob replied as he wrote that.

Memba tire size can also be a factor.

They make stock sized UCA's also. Great, I love adding things to be able to put a rear bumper on.

3 inch lift
UCA's
wheels and tires
I and I will need sliders so I can lift the truck to change a tire.

I wonder how long the stock rear can hold the bumper up?

I'm haven't read of any issues with SPC's and OEM wheels, but someone will chime in, they are very popular UCAs! I've got Freedom Offroad (sealed balljoints, non-uni ball)_ and I have great clearance with my ORP wheels. 2.5" (holding at 2.7" actual) lift and 255/80R17 tires.

No contact of the coils on full droop either, something that occasionally happens with JBA's it seems like.

Few things... you can ignore me if you like.

I'm at 2.5 inches up front 1 in the rear and I've had zero issues with clearance so far since lifting. .5" can mean alot for your CV's and your seat cushion. I'm 6'5" and I still need too hop and scoot into the truck at 2.5". Also if you have kdss the higher you go the more that system fights the suspension. This will cause you to wear stuff faster (like bushings) and potentially introduce more kdss lean.

You don't need sliders to change a tire altho i recommend sliders if you offroad. I don't even own a highlift. Just a stock bottle jack and a 5 ton bottle jack with some wood. Not saying highlifts don't have their uses but I think many seasoned dirt peps run without them.

Stock suspension will likely sag like crazy with steel. Especially if you have swing outs and all that. You will likely be dragging it all over obstacles offroad.

Stock bottle jack with a 2x4 works fine. No need for a hilift to change a flat.

The JBA website gives a list of compatible wheels/tires that will work. Camburg is another brand that won’t have any issues with your stock wheel offset.

I already have the HiLift, from my Xterra days. I plan on going with these

JBA STD High Caster Upper A-arms for 2005-14 Toyota Tacoma, 4Runner, FJ Cruiser

and some SCS wheelswith the -38 offset and some 285's. I do want sliders but my priority has become getting this rear bumper on and lifting it.

In addition to the mentioned issue with JBA UCA's rubbing the tire depending on your wheel offset the JBA UCA can also hit some brands of coils at full droop if you are using an extended travel front shock.


See the discussion and photos here:


Most affordable UCA for 5th gen??


There are numerous other UCA's that don't have any contact issues. IMHO I think there are other better choices than the JBA due to these two scenarios. That same thread has a good discussion about some of those choices.



As far as Hi-Lift vs bottle jack I view them both as necessary.
Bottle or scissor jack with whatever type of extension and platform you need to make it work for your rig for changing tires and possibly recovery. Although sometimes you're in a situation where you can't use a bottle jack to change a tire due to the way the vehicle is positioned or instability of the ground underneath. Then the Hi-Lift (or similar) is a must have assuming you have a viable jack point for the hi lift (Sliders or bumper, rear receiver hitch maybe). Also Hi-Lift as a recovery tool.


I have used the Hi-Lift Lift-Mate numerous times to get un-stuck. great affordable recovery tool: (Make sure your rims will accept the hooks before purchasing)



Amazon.com: Hi-Lift Jack LM-100 Lift-Mate: Automotive

Don't forget the second best feature of the hilift...its also a back up winch! (with the correct accessories and determination)

I also got one of those Bottle jack/jack stand combos. Pretty nice and a bit more stable off road!

I agree with all of that. I just try to tell people to invest in a decent bottle jack setup (to include the oem bottle) before going crazy with a hi-lift and all the kit. They are all dangerous in their own special ways, but hi-lift more so, also requires a steeper investment.

If I could go back I prob would choose something other then JBA and spared myself the BMC. Although I do like the GM BJ and have no plans for LT until/if I break the kdss system somehow. I also definitely don't appreciate being proselytized by anyone especially when I'm paying for a product or service. Some people don't know how to live/let live and mind their damn business. Completely inappropriate/unprofessional to put that material in with their product.