05-23-2020, 09:15 PM
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#16
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Friggin Idiot
An HID setup has several parts: bulb, ballast, relay (optional), projector
Bulb is self explanatory. Ballast is basically a voltage converter, the 12-14v of the truck into tens of thousands of volts to spark over the gap in the HID bulb.
The relay provides a more steady power source directly from the battery to the ballast, required in the event that the vehicle wiring can't support the amperage draw of the ballast (not a problem in our trucks). The projector is the glass and mirror housing for the bulb which focuses and aims the light.
There are 3 different ways to utilize an HID setup in the 4Runner
1) Plug-n-Play Kit
These are available from XenonDepot, Retrofit Source, and other places for $150+. They include a bulb which will fit into the factory projector. Meaning you only need to drill a hole into the dust cover cap to run wires through from the truck headlight connector to the ballast then back to the bulb. The ballast will need to be mounted (screw or double sided tape) somewhere close to the headlight. Because these use the Toyota projector, which was designed for a halogen bulb not an HID bulb, they do not have a great cut off and can easily dazzle oncoming drivers if not aimed low enough.
2) Projector Retrofit/Conversion
This is pretty much the same as above with the added work of ungluing the headlight assembly and changing the projector to one designed to work with HID bulbs. It involves quite a bit more work, but will have a sharp cut-off and project light very well.
3) Housing Replacement
Basically you're paying someone else to do the above for you, mount it all in a housing, and ship it to you. Rather expensive ~$1300+, and has lots of customization options. Kustom54 type of work. There are also housing replacements which add more projectors and pack them with LEDs instead of HID.
Most people opt for option 1 as it's the simplest and can be done in an afternoon with minimal ability required.
Option 2 is more involved, you have to heat the glue which seals the headlight up in the oven in order to get the headlight open, then add new adhesive in order to seal it again. Seal it improperly and you'll forever have a condensation problem in your headlights. Can also add things like demon eyes and switchback halos to the install as well.
Option 3 is out there, but most don't want to deal with the price tag associated with it.
I did have option 1 installed for almost 4 years. My kit is still functional and now installed in a 4Runner in Cali. The bulbs were reaching the end of their life, and were growing less bright than they used to be. I didn't want the reoccurring cost of replacing $75-200 bulbs every 3-4 years given the amount of night time driving I do. I am also very willing to take a slightly less intense light as I have Baja Design fog lights and 20" light bar should I need more light. To each their own. I've tried one, found something I didn't care for and wanted to try something different. I will say the LED installation is significantly simpler!
The Idiot Thread - XenonDepot HID Low Beam Plug-n-Play Kit
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Now THAT was a kick@$$ answer that I understood perfectly. Thank you very much Friggen!
I think that I have now made my decision. While the HID setup sounds awesome, since I do not do that much night driving, I don't have the motivation of drilling holes in a 1 week old vehicle and I really don't want to chance blinding anyone I will go w/ the LEDs.
Just for reference, do vendors sell a complete headlight HID kit like the Toyota Tacoma XB LED Headlights - Complete Housings from Morimoto?
Last edited by Par02; 05-23-2020 at 11:22 PM.
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05-24-2020, 11:49 AM
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#17
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Join Date: Nov 2015
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Honestly, you would be happy with either. I like that the HID has choices for bulb temp (color of the light itself) where LED doesn’t. My work vehicle has LED bulbs (not GTR but another highly regarded brand) in projector housings and I still prefer my HIDs in the 4Runner. They’re both upgrades over factory so you can’t go wrong.
If I were to choose from the 4 fields in the link I sent you I would do 1) 35w ballasts 2) HD relay 3) 4K bulbs (maybe 5k if you want them blue) 4) no anti flicker
Here is a good HID install video: YouTube
Quote:
Originally Posted by Par02
Darnit. I was all ready to buy the GTRs but this intrigues me.
The link you sent has 4 different fields for options. I have to admit, I have no clue which to choose for mine. 2020 4Runner ORP.
And you say as easy as a lightbulb but then you say you run a relay kit. Why did you do that instead of going the easy way? Is there a step by step installation video or anything? The install guide makes my eyes hurt :P
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05-24-2020, 01:30 PM
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#18
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Senior Member
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Join Date: Dec 2015
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 4R2020
I did the H9 & 9006 conversion in my new 2020. So much better and no worrying about ballasts and all that jazz. Did the OEM led fog lights too. It's super easy, just make sure you have a good set of narrow clippers and a file.
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I get the H9 conversion as I have done that in the past. What is the 9006 conversion? The reason I am asking is 9006 is a 55W low-beam bulb and the 9005 is a 65W hi-beam bulb. The 4Runner has the brighter 9005 for hi-beams. Unless you bought a special bulb it seems like you made the hi-beams dimmer. The next step up from 9005 is 9011.
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05-24-2020, 05:10 PM
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#19
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Join Date: Apr 2020
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My bad, got my numbers mixed up, you are correct.
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06-16-2020, 09:57 PM
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#20
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Heh, sorry... I linked to this thread from another one and forgot that I never posted what I ultimately ended up with.
I decided I didn't want to deal with conversion kits and all that and after seeing the side-by-side comparisons, I have to say that the GTR Ultra 2s actually look like they go further than the HIDs.
So that is what I ended up with and couldn't be happier. While I am sure that the ultimate way to go about this is that HID conversion, I really didn't want to deal with it and the longevity of the LEDs has its appeal. And like @friggenIdiot said, anything would be an improvement over stocks.
I also went on a limb and bought the Diode Dynamics SSE Pro Amber Fog lights and wow... those are amazing!
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06-16-2020, 10:45 PM
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#21
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How is this still being debated? H9s win. Science wins. LED/HID crowd definitely impedes the left lane with no fail.
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06-17-2020, 01:03 AM
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#22
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Banned
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Join Date: Nov 2017
Location: Bay Area, CA
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Real Name: Mark
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Wolfman’s Brother
How is this still being debated? H9s win. Science wins. LED/HID crowd definitely impedes the left lane with no fail.
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Yes. Just do the H11 to H9 (low beam) & 9005 to 9011 (high beam) conversion. You owe it to yourself to see the difference. The Philips H9 costs about $12 per bulb. The Philips 9011 bulb costs about $25 per bulb. Convert the bulbs on the passenger side only, drive in a dark location at night and see for yourself.
If you’re not satisfied put em up for sale on the forum.
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06-17-2020, 03:10 AM
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#23
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ElectroBoy
Yes. Just do the H11 to H9 (low beam) & 9005 to 9011 (high beam) conversion. You owe it to yourself to see the difference. The Philips H9 costs about $12 per bulb. The Philips 9011 bulb costs about $25 per bulb. Convert the bulbs on the passenger side only, drive in a dark location at night and see for yourself.
If you’re not satisfied put em up for sale on the forum.
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Ive done the H9s and the H11 GE130s and have been impressed with the results. Haven't done the 9011 yet...curious now. Is it plug and play or do I also need to do some trimming?
EDIT: oops nevermind, found it here ( https://sep.yimg.com/ca/I/yhst-91565...12_2267_311973)
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Last edited by SpeedyKevin; 06-17-2020 at 03:15 AM.
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06-17-2020, 03:36 AM
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#24
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Also dont worry if Amazon says the H11 GE Xenon 120s wont fit. Bought em and love em!
Here are some pics from a few weeks ago right before a new moon around Yosemite
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2019 ORP - KDSS, Dobinsons C59-302/GS59-700 front and C59-725/IMS59-50701 rear, Dobinsons UCA, DuroBump/Daystar bumpstops, Sonoran Steel High Articulation tracbar, Marlin Crawler LCA frame brace, OGS Lo-Key Bumper w/ Warn VR EVO 10-S, RCI Sliders, fully armored with RCI/C4/Outgear Solutions skids, Falken Wildpeak M/T 285/70/17, LFD SS-Crossbars, ARB breather kit (Rear Diff and Locker), ScanGaugeII, Anytime Front/Backup Camera, onboard ARB Twin compressor MORRFlate kit, and DD SS3 Sport fogs
Last edited by SpeedyKevin; 06-17-2020 at 03:43 AM.
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06-17-2020, 10:05 PM
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#25
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Join Date: Dec 2015
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Quote:
Originally Posted by SpeedyKevin
Ive done the H9s and the H11 GE130s and have been impressed with the results. Haven't done the 9011 yet...curious now. Is it plug and play or do I also need to do some trimming?
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9005>>9011 is similar to H11>>H9. I did the 9011 yesterday and this is during the day on a concrete wall. Left is 9011 and right is 9005. I used the Amazon Wagner-boxed Made in Germany bulbs that were $12ea on Amazon.
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Current: 2004 Land Cruiser Thundercloud Metallic
Former: 2020 ORP Silver. BFG AT KO2s, TRD Skid Plate, added Rear Sliding Deck, Pro LED fogs, Infinity REF-3032CFX dash speakers.
In Between: 2020 Jeep Wrangler Unlimited Rubicon with almost all options. Got tired of worrying about it disintegrating and ending up setting at the dealer for weeks and months.
Former: 2010 TE Silver w/ C4 Fab Rock Sliders, TRD skid plate, ECGS bushing upgrade, Bilstein 5100s, and BFG AT KO2 tires.
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06-18-2020, 08:17 PM
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#26
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Join Date: Mar 2012
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 4R2020
I did the H9 & 9006 conversion in my new 2020. So much better and no worrying about ballasts and all that jazz. Did the OEM led fog lights too. It's super easy, just make sure you have a good set of narrow clippers and a file.
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I did this as well and the first night you will be impressed how much brighter. I would do this first. Cheap and does the job perfectly.
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