This x1000

I don't think the people in most of these audio threads have heard higher end car audio systems. They all want to spend money on their rear stage, skimp on the front stage, and do nothing for sound processing.

And you need subwoofer. You don't have to "listen to rap" to need a subwoofer, all genres of music use low frequencies. It doesn't have to be huge or loud either. Having a sub means you can also filter the low frequencies out of your mids. And under seat subs are garbage

This was stage one of my audio upgrade and I was very pleased. I deadened the doors while I had them apart.

It will sound 100% better but you will eventually crave power.

I eventually went focal in rear doors and hatch also along with an amp and DSP. Sometimes I think Id like to add a subwoofer but I am not willing to lose any cargo space. I have been looking at maybe tucking a 10” kicker bass tube between the fridge and panel on the wheel well. Other projects are priority at the moment.

How do you go about picking a solution? I am looking for the easiest install (that obviously doesn't significantly affect sound quality or pricing), and I mostly hear about OEM Audio Plus, sometimes Taco Tunes. Now I'm hearing Focal more and more?

OEM Audio: Easiest install for a complete system, if you have the money.

Focal: Plug and play, so if you are just replacing the front door and dash speakers this is the easiest route. Most people would be very happy with just these.

Taco Tunes: This is the DIY route. Large variety of options from plug and play speakers to complete systems. They do sell plug and play harnesses and speaker mounts so you can use whatever amp/speakers you want.

Realistically the "install" is about the same for any stereo system. The OEM Audio is going to be the easiest for a complete system since it is literally plugging connectors in, but even a custom system with a adapter harness is only a little harder since you have to setup the wires to the amp(s). Keep in mind if you get a sub you will have to remove panels and run the wiring.

Youtube is your friend. There are plenty of install videos on 4Runners. Even if you have never installed a stereo before a few basic tools from Harbor Freight and you can follow along step by step.

Its all out there to make it plug and play.

I used taco tunes harnesses to get from head unit to dsp(i used audisson bit ten) and again from amp (jl audio 700 watt) back to the factory soeaker harness. I did have to solder the audisson input plug to the taco tunes harness. The focals had toyota plugs. I ended up with a very nice set up that will absolutely blow an OEM audio or tacotunes system away. I spent around $2400. I did the entire install myself and I had never done anything like that before. I did bring it to an audio shop after completing the install to get the audisson “tuned”. Its a 24 band eq and time delay and crossover for each channel. They put a mic on the headrest and connected to audisson software on my laptop to set it up.

The tacotunes harnesses will work with any dsp or amp. And you can buy adapters to connect any speaker to toyota plugs. Or... you buy an entire system in a box.

I started out thinking I'd go with OEM Audio+ and emailed them asking a bunch of questions. Then I started looking at Tacotunes...then hit Crutchfield, and thought plug and play...then COVID-19 hit...after ripping all the interior out and deadening, I decided to go the full custom route.

I'm almost done. Speakers are:

Front: Focal Expert PS 165 F (separate 6.5" woofers in the door, and separate tweeters in the dash).

Rear doors and hatch: same speakers, except coaxial Focal Expert PC 165 F.

I have an SR5, so had to get the factory sub enclosure and mounted a JL Audio 8w3v3-4.

Head unit: decided on a Kenwood Excelon Reference DNX997XR.

Amp: JL Audio Vx800/8i with integrated DSP. Feeds 75w/channel for the speakers and 200w for the sub.

Working in the amp now. Just mounted the master volume/bass knob.

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I'm trying to decide what I want to do about a subwoofer. I am used to having a nice 10" filling out the sound with some decent punch, but I'd have to build a custom box without a really decent location for it in the 4R. Added complexity is we have and use the 3rd row seats. I am considering just going for easy and getting a compact powered subwoofer for under the front seat like the JBL Bass Pro Nano or something along those lines. I don't have any experience with these though. Can anyone who has comment on how well they fill out the sound? Any recommendations on particular units? I'm running Focals all around with the Performance PS 165F up front. Thanks.

I've never like the "pancake " style subs. I just bought a used OEM enclosure from Ebay and installed a Skar VD series 8" in it. Fits fine, fits factory enclosure volume specs, and was 65.00 shipped. I know a lot of people dislike Skar as a brand, but I tested the sub in another box and it sounds quite good imho.
I'm pairing it with an NVX micro amp that's rated at 500watts RMS @ 1 ohm. When it's finished, I'll post the honest results.

I'll have to check out options for using the factory enclosure. I hadn't considered it, just because it doesn't seem to be worth the cost to only get an 8".

In my experience, an 8" in the proper enclosure, on enough power on reserve is usually sufficient for most people. It's usually when the woofer is in too small of an enclosure or underpowered when it's just not enough.

I actually had the vd8 originally in the OEM enclosure, but swapped for the JL 8w3. If I didn't live in Hawaii, I would have gone with a sundown sd3 or better sd4. Shipping here is like $60.

The 8w3 sounds much better and more controlled. I feel the vd8 was distorting at certain frequencies.

@kadinh I know you said you switched your amp after speaking with Crutchfield, but did you install the Infinity Kappa 90csx components? I just bought a pair for my 2015 LE with JBL and wanted to know what you thought of them?

I had the JL Audio C2-690tx (doors) and C2-350x (dash) installed for a couple of days before returning them. I know a lot of people on the forum really like that combo, but it didn't seem to work well with the JBL setup. I was surprised to see the Kappas actually look a bit bigger and sturdier than the C2s. I'm planning on installing them with a JL RD-400.4 amp and possibly fill in the back with the Kappa 62ix or Primus PR6512IS if necessary. Did you end up putting Kappas in your back doors also?

Yes, I put the Infinity speakers in the back and rear. I have been VERY happy with them. I was worried that they would sound "bright" or "tinny" bc of other peoples' opinions, but I think they sound great.

I ended up getting the Pioneer GM-D9705 4x100 + 600x1 (@ 2 ohms) and 2 RF P3D2-10 subwoofers. Honestly, I was thinking about sending the subs back after amping up the door speakers alone, they hit surprisingly hard! I built a sealed down firing sub box a little bigger than what was "optimal" (according to the manufacturer recommendation) to get a little louder sound. I disconnected the hatch speakers bc they are wired in series with the rear door speakers, creating 6.5 ohms of resistance (instead of the 2.5ohms of just the door speakers alone). I don't notice any loss in volume at all by disconnecting the hatch speakers (I was worried about that, even thought of sending back the 2ohm speakers and getting four 4ohm speakers and rewiring in parallel, but that would have been a big job in itself.

Overall, I'm happy with what I installed, glad my wife loves it too. I still need to adjust the EQ and crossovers, and put the sound deadening inside the doors and hatch. Hopefully that will make it even better.

Did you have any issues getting the kappas to fit in the rear? Crutchfield says they mounting is too deep. Just install kappa 6x9s in my front doors with the kappa component tweeters and they sounds amazing. The polks in the rear aren’t cutting it for me though. Thanks

If you still have that extra set of rear Kappas and would consider selling let me know.