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Old 06-01-2020, 08:35 PM #1
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Help please. No crank no start problem

*****UPDATE: dealership had the wrong fuse, didn’t match the original. Have a couple coming to me tomorrow via amazon. However, my attempts to disassemble the fuse panel failed, I don’t want to risk putting too much force on it. And my soldering skills...aren’t.
How bad of a hit am I going to take at the dealership? I’m aware I’m going to have to pull my power tray out... again.****

I'll begin by stating I'm 99.999% sure this is my fault. As i was tightening things down on the new attachment for my Switchpro reservoir mount I didnt realize the positive battery lead came up and made contact with the terminal post. I was cranking down the bolts on the end of the power tray and got an arc. Scared the crap outta me. Dropped the socket wrench. Didnt hear/smell anything that lead me to believe i burned something up. Location i was working was at the end of the power try by where the negative lead connects to the bus (See pic). The wrench was down below it when the arc happened.


Went to power on the vehicle, the dash lights up, lights illuminate, but no crank, no click, and obviously no start.

So, to you pros out there. Where do i begin, any fuses i should key in on first? Would prefer not to bring it to the dealer if i don't have to. Your help would be most appreciated.
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Old 06-01-2020, 08:49 PM #2
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Oh yeah youíre gonna have to go through the fuses individually and see which one is burned. Or you can get one of those tools that tests fuses, I forget the name but Scotty Kilmer has a video.

Of course you could obd2 it but it might just have a general code. Or it could throw a code that leads you in the right direction.

However, I donít think itís a fuse. I would assume you fried the main computer. No crank no start is either the starter, the switch, or the computer. Based on what you said I would say the computer is the likely culprit. I think I read somewhere the 4Runner has 5 computers but it would be the main one.

Your issue is 100% electrical in nature (which is probably obvious). Gonna have to replace the computer I would assume.

Oh and donít expect the dealership to replace under warranty. Your installation is the reason for the failure and thatís obvious. I would shop around for the best/cheapest mechanic and skip dealership since warranty wonít cover this.


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Old 06-01-2020, 08:59 PM #3
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Oh I was quite sure that warranty wouldn't be a player in this one. This is gonna hurt.
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Old 06-01-2020, 09:17 PM #4
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So the wrench made the connection? What exactly touched what?


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Old 06-01-2020, 09:19 PM #5
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I wouldn't think you'd be able to fry the computer unless you managed to somehow short the battery through a trace on the computer mainboard somewhere. Simply shorting a battery will dump a ton of current through whatever path you've just created but shouldn't do much to any equipment not in that path.
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Old 06-01-2020, 09:57 PM #6
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Quote:
Originally Posted by umidkusername View Post
So the wrench made the connection? What exactly touched what?


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I honestly have no idea what touched what. But it was enough to keep my fog lights form coming on, radio, anything. It'll unlock, but won't lock whether its via fob, or door switch. Aircon won't activate when the ignition is on. Checked the fuses in the engine bay, none of the small ones appear to be blown, the clear top larger ones seem intact. Not sure how to check the ones with a gray top.

Best i can surmise is the power shorted thru the switch pro and then somehow into the system, which doesn't really make sense due to the fact there's only two cables running into the fusebox by the kick panel. none of those are blown. Am i missing a fuse panel?
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Old 06-01-2020, 09:58 PM #7
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I wouldn't think you'd be able to fry the computer unless you managed to somehow short the battery through a trace on the computer mainboard somewhere. Simply shorting a battery will dump a ton of current through whatever path you've just created but shouldn't do much to any equipment not in that path.
I sincerely hope this is something simple, its just the simple things are the hardest to find usually.
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Old 06-01-2020, 10:07 PM #8
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I'd start by checking the big 100A main fuse in the fusebox. I know that powers pretty much everything besides the starting motor and a few other things so if that blew you'd definitely not be able to do much of anything at all.
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Old 06-01-2020, 10:15 PM #9
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Paragon1 View Post
Not sure how to check the ones with a gray top.
Those are relays. You replace them with new ones.



Quote:
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Best i can surmise is the power shorted thru the switch pro and then somehow into the system, which doesn't really make sense due to the fact there's only two cables running into the fusebox by the kick panel. none of those are blown. Am i missing a fuse panel?
Well the arc would send a surge through the main power supply that attaches to the battery. For the truck to not start like that it must have,imo.

But itís weird though because the negative has to be connected for the positive to have an arc like that. Thatís why the positive gets connect first and then the negative second. No power without the negative. So both were connected and the positive one came off and somehow touched again?

Sounds like that would cause an arc but Jesus thatís bad luck, like thatís why Iím trying to figure out what touched what. Itís unlikely to happen, just some disconnected? Or was the positive already disconnected and you connected negative first?


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Old 06-01-2020, 10:39 PM #10
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Quote:
Originally Posted by umidkusername View Post
Those are relays. You replace them with new ones.
Well the arc would send a surge through the main power supply that attaches to the battery. For the truck to not start like that it must have,imo.

But itís weird though because the negative has to be connected for the positive to have an arc like that. Thatís why the positive gets connect first and then the negative second. No power without the negative. So both were connected and the positive one came off and somehow touched again?

Sounds like that would cause an arc but Jesus thatís bad luck, like thatís why Iím trying to figure out what touched what. Itís unlikely to happen, just some disconnected? Or was the positive already disconnected and you connected negative first?


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I pulled the positive lead off the battery since I was just doing a quick adjust, didnít pull the negative lead from the battery or Switch-Pro. The positive lead crept back
To the terminal without me noticing. Was working at the end of the power tray, thereís a couple factory plugs under there but nothing appears to be out of order.

Which fuse is the 100 main? Forgive my lack of familiarity, generally I donít go this far into the weeds on the electrics.
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Old 06-01-2020, 11:45 PM #11
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Not saying this is it, @LOLSNOW did something similar while installing a battery tray, @Antman was changing out an alternator, not sure what happened to @rigtec . There is a big chunky fuse in the center of the engine bay fuse box that supplies the alternator, all of the aforementioned members have fixes, if that if the case. That fuse comes out the bottom of the fuse box, which requires pretty much complete disassembly of it.

LOLSNOW’s was the only one I found ATM:
https://www.toyota-4runner.org/5th-gen-t4rs/253694-diy-omg-i-blew-140a-alternator-fu$e.html?highlight=Starter+fuse

So yeah check the fuses.
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Old 06-01-2020, 11:47 PM #12
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Don't forget that it is possible that a blown fuse "looks" OK, so each fuse needs to be tested - not just eyeballed.
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Old 06-01-2020, 11:55 PM #13
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Well if it turns out you blew the 140A alternator fuse, there are a couple of threads on how others fixed it. One is Antman and the other is LOLSNOW. A quick search will bring them up. This is not an easy job as you'll see - so I hope your problem turns out to have an easier solution.
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Old 06-02-2020, 12:08 AM #14
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It's more likely a fuse check all the fuses starter fuses, gnition fuses all of them. Use a multimeter and check the fuses.
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Old 06-02-2020, 01:25 AM #15
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Hi @Paragon1 ,

There are a few ways to restore power to the vehicle's electrical grid W/O removing the "Engine-room fuse-box"; you don't wanna do that job, ugh! The easiest way is to by-pass the Main 140A fuse! Here's a snap-shot of one way:



All this is, is a Quick charge for the battery, but, 4ga cable, like the one I use to support my LG Horse power Sub-woofer amps (2500W True RMS); Not Peak Music power!

So, if you run a 4ga cable from the alternator directly to the battery, it'll not only charge the battery FAST, but it will also by-pass the blown 140A fuse and restore power that was lost to all of your electrical system!

But... be sure to install a 140A inline fuse at the battery, no more than 6" from the battery; that will protect the OEM Electrical system from harm! ...and make sure that the 140A fuse is you trouble!

Here's another way (this is what Antman did to repair the main Alternator fuse)! He removed the see through fuse cover on the main fuse, went to "Auto-Zone" and bought a 140A fuse, removed the burned element, and just soldered the new one to the original 140A fuse; a stroke of genius! Let me know how you make out !

rig, cheers!
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