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Old 06-10-2020, 01:31 PM #16
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Those solder band connectors don't really make a very good connection. You can better things by tinning the wires first; but they still leave a lot to be desired. Solder band heat shrink bands are usually used to attach a ground wire to a shielded wire or twisted pair - not to make connections between conductors. It's much better to use a crimp splice or a good clinched soldered connection - and then cover with heat shrink.
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Old 06-10-2020, 11:11 PM #17
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I'm old school. Crimp them or solder them or both. Stuff falls out eventually.

Use a heat gun not a lighter on heat shrink.
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Old 06-11-2020, 12:02 AM #18
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The low temperature melting point solder used in these butt connectors is probably a tin/bismuth alloy. It works, but there are known problems with it such as being brittle and low electrical conductivity among others.
Why bother using it? Just use good old tin/lead or tin/silver solder and heat shrink tubing. Or crimp and heat shrink. Your truck is a vibration machine, don’t create possible intermittent connections.
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Old 06-11-2020, 12:55 PM #19
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Whippersnapper02 View Post
Cool concept but it seems a lot of variation of solder quality between brands. I'd prefer to solder myself and heat shrink with known quality products. I mostly use PosiLok products now.
+1 for Posi-Lock connectors. I used several on the handlebar electrical wiring in my Harley over a decade ago. I've never had an issue with any of them, despite the massive amount of vibration and abuse they take.

I've also used these self-solder heat shrinks in my 4Runner. The solder inside a few of them didn't flow evenly because they were in a difficult spot under the dash when applying heat. They worked, but they're not my favorite. I went back to traditional solder and heat shrink for my last project.
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