I'm about to install a small low-powered sub in my truck and had a couple questions. Already searched and couldn't find exactly what I'm looking for. Creating this thread in case anyone comes across something like this in the future.

The sub I have is a Pioneer TS-WX400DA. I got it because it fits perfectly under the seat and still leaves space for your feet and the OEM all-weather floor mat.




I ended up getting an LC2i line out converter so I could control the bass roll off.




Now, my question is, where should I draw power for the sub? The manual says, "Connect the lead to a power supply terminal from the fuse box which can provide a constant current level of more than 10A." I don't really see anything in the fuse box that I can tap into that's more than 10A. I found something that's 10Am (KDSS - I don't have KDSS installed) but nothing more. The power cable has a inline fuse of 10A so I figured maybe I can tap directly to the radio?

I bought a harness on Amazon (originally bought the "add a sub" from Tacotunes but their customer service is horrible and non-existent so figured I'd try something else) and this harness has a 12v lead. Can I just tap into that for the sub or am I asking for trouble? Also, is it possible to use that 12v lead from the harness to power both the sub (10A) and the LC2i (1A)?

If all else fails😁😎😳😉🤡

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I had this Fosgate 10” powered sub installed recently in mine but I bought a wiring kit with it so have a 10g wire coming off the battery to it (fused up front). Maybe overkill but I thought that’s the recommended power source for the Amp, direct from the battery. Wiring kit also handled this 2 Channel Line out converter it needed (off factory deck) heavy duty ground wire, etc. Anyway, I think off the battery is the right way to go.

That subwoofer specs says it has a max of 250 watts. So 250 watts divided by 12 volts, will give you a max current of 20.8 amperes. You will likely have to run a power cable from the battery to power that subwoofer unless you can find an empty 20 Amp fuse. If you tap into a 10 amp fuse, you will be constantly blowing that fuse once you turn up the volume.

Should you be dividing by peak watts or RMS? 20A doesn't make sense to me if there's a 10A fuse installed to the sub's power line arleady. Manual says max power consumption is 9.4A

Why didn't you just go with the factory JBL or some sort of stealth box? I bet that little sub isn't going to do much of anything at all.

On your question, I'd power it right off the battery and run a line. That's what the stereo shop did with mine, except I'm running a JL XD600-1 amp connected to a JL 12W6 in a sealed box. Mine obviously needs more power, but I wouldn't want to mess around with trying to make anything work with the factory fuse box. I'd run a dedicated line and be done with it.

I got it for cheap and doesn't take up any space at all. I've got a 3rd row and need to maintain my trunk space. Not willing to shell out money for a custom box.

I know it's not really all that powerful but it will suit my needs. I just needed a little more low end. Don't need to shake any mirrors or anything.

I installed the previous version of this Pioneer sub a couple of years ago. First, do NOT tap into the power cable for the radio or any other device. Instead, install an add-a-Tap in your fuse box in a slot that’s at least 10 amps, and run a dedicated power cable to the sub, like the instructions say. There are likely some unused slots in the box. Second, disconnect the battery before starting the install. This cannot be stressed enough.
I used some ideas from @Antman ’s instructions for installing a powered sub, located in the stickies. He ran a heavier power supply than needed, directly from the battery. There is nothing wrong with that, but it isn’t really necessary since the sub doesn’t pull that much power.

I am also looking to add a subwoofer (maybe) to my build. I'm waiting for all the parts to come in, should all be here by Friday next week. I'm wondering if the Infinity Kappa 6x9 (plus tweeters) 135W and Kappa 6.5" 75W are going to be enough for me. If I would have researched before I bought everything (Kappas were a steal of a deal), I think I would have gone with a 5 channel amp, put 2ohm front 6x9s on channels 1 and 2, then put the 4 ohm R rear and hatch speakers on channel 3 in parallel, L side on channel 4 parallel, then have the ability to add a sub easily.

My mistake was getting a 4 channel amp that is 150W x 4 @ 2 ohms with speakers that are 2.5 ohms. I'll be losing my hatch speakers (which ppl say dont really matter anyways) and I don't have an extra channel for a sub.

To answer your question OP, I was looking into shallow mount subwoofers. A few brands have them and they take up much less space that traditional subs and boxes. If I decide to add a sub(s), that is the way I'm going.

Yeah, I ended up just using an add-a-fuse and putting it in the KDSS slot and has been fine so far. The LC2i is tapped into the stereo but barely uses any power so that's good. Super simple install.

Only pic I took during installation haha.