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Old 06-22-2020, 12:19 PM #16
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Quote:
Originally Posted by TodiN View Post
So you still had back rubbing with a 4* Caster on 285s? I have Falken AT3W on 285s E with OEM UCAs and it makes me thinking if indeed the Ironman UCAs will perform... hmmm
There does seem to be different experiences about which tires require trimming, etc. I don’t know the UCA plays much of a role there though. I could have had caster increased beyond 4*, but wanted to stay closer to Toyota spec. Mud flaps were removed before installing tires because I have sliders with top plate to protect the body sides...and like the look without them.
Note that rubbing was on the drivers side front inside fender liner, not passenger. It did appear that my passenger fender liner was pushed back further from the factory. Perhaps there is an OEM range they come with?
I pushed back the drivers side about 1.25” and passenger about 1” to be safe. While the tires were off I went ahead and used the Dremel to take 3/4” off the lower bumper....to be safe and to avoid rubbing when off road and tire pushed up further into the wheel well.
Perhaps my fix was over the top, but I would rather fix it for good once than run the risk of destroying fender or bumper while off road when the wheel is stuffed up in the well.
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Old 06-22-2020, 02:20 PM #17
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Glad to hear that everything worked out for you in the end. Good to see some others getting the Ironman suspensions. Hands down I like these the best of all others I've had.

From now on when I modify / do suspension work, I think my new plan of attack will be to max the cams out for caster prior to getting my trucks aligned. All too often I feel like I have to over explain what I'm trying to accomplish with the techs (when I used to have SPC's they were a damn nightmare!) - OR I've had issues that a cam is a bit stuck and just takes some elbow grease to get in shape (which they won't take the extra time to do). My last experience was my wife's truck (the Ironman install) had a slightly frozen rear passenger side cam that was stuck and the techs were telling me I was out of adjust-ability (by two different national chain shops!). I had to crank it myself and take back to have the toe fixed...
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Old 06-22-2020, 03:39 PM #18
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Run Forrest Run View Post
There does seem to be different experiences about which tires require trimming, etc. I don’t know the UCA plays much of a role there though. I could have had caster increased beyond 4*, but wanted to stay closer to Toyota spec. Mud flaps were removed before installing tires because I have sliders with top plate to protect the body sides...and like the look without them.
Note that rubbing was on the drivers side front inside fender liner, not passenger. It did appear that my passenger fender liner was pushed back further from the factory. Perhaps there is an OEM range they come with?
I pushed back the drivers side about 1.25” and passenger about 1” to be safe. While the tires were off I went ahead and used the Dremel to take 3/4” off the lower bumper....to be safe and to avoid rubbing when off road and tire pushed up further into the wheel well.
Perhaps my fix was over the top, but I would rather fix it for good once than run the risk of destroying fender or bumper while off road when the wheel is stuffed up in the well.

Thanks
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Old 06-23-2020, 12:11 AM #19
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Dinosaur Overland View Post
Have you noticed how the lift and larger tires effected your fuel mileage? I ask because this is the same setup we will be using
I haven’t driven enough yet to give an educated answer. 265 OEM Bridgestone were only 39 Lbs, the 285 BFG C loads are 51 Lbs, an inch larger and AT tread. I was close to going with Nitto Ridge Grapplers, but couldn't pass up KO2’s with white letters out at the same price. All I read from others on the forum tells me to expect a hit of 1-2 mpg on any 285- my gauge tells me I’m @ .5 lower so far. I’m very happy with the ride and they are much quieter than expected. Bottom line- They look so good, I’m willing to pay a little more at the pump. Best of luck with your build!
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Old 07-13-2020, 10:26 AM #20
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I just installed this kit but with the foam cells as Nitro we’re out of stock as were the top plates so I had to build the CO myself. Did you adjust the coilover at all or go with the 8.5” they come with pre-assembled. Mine is tall, which I like, but has a lot of bounce. I’m thinking I adjusted too high and will need to back them down.
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Old 07-13-2020, 11:40 AM #21
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Fishintaco View Post
I just installed this kit but with the foam cells as Nitro we’re out of stock as were the top plates so I had to build the CO myself. Did you adjust the coilover at all or go with the 8.5” they come with pre-assembled. Mine is tall, which I like, but has a lot of bounce. I’m thinking I adjusted too high and will need to back them down.
Nitros are not adjustable so I’m at stock Ironman height. I did have them add a 5mm spacer on drivers side (sits below the coil) to compensate for drivers side lean, which added .4” to my after settled results below:
DF 22.5” +3” (Includes 5mm spacer)
PF 22.625” +2.75”
DR 24” +2.5”
PR 24” +2.25”

I used performance “B” springs, which did you go with?
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Old 07-13-2020, 01:47 PM #22
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I too went with the performance springs. I just talked to them and on the coilover, they label it as OEM but it has a 2.5” lift already dialed in so when I added some height on the coil it put them too high. I’m going to back them down to the 8.5 and see what that will do.
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Old 07-13-2020, 05:32 PM #23
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Fishintaco View Post
I too went with the performance springs. I just talked to them and on the coilover, they label it as OEM but it has a 2.5” lift already dialed in so when I added some height on the coil it put them too high. I’m going to back them down to the 8.5 and see what that will do.
Hey Fishin check out this thread, it is specifically for the Foam Cell Pro's.

I assembled mine at 8.5" on the passenger side and 8.75" on the riverside. Came out 3" of lift with Performance Springs.

Ironman Foam Cell Pro
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Old 08-09-2020, 09:34 PM #24
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any current promo code for a Dustin am 15% off?


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Old 08-14-2020, 11:50 PM #25
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60 Day check in:

I’ve been chasing down a low speed ‘squeak’ for weeks. Checked all installation points, etc. Eventually found my alignment tech had only torqued lower control arms down to @ 40-50lbs vs factory 129 Ft lb Spec... After a re-alignment and proper torque, I’m back in spec with zero squeaks!

Over all, I’m extremely satisfied with the Nitro stage 2 kit. The ride is so sporty and solid around high speed turns and at highway speeds. The performance is great plus the stance is perfect to my eye. I’ve yet to go hard off road, but that’s not really my thing at this point either.
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Old 08-15-2020, 12:13 AM #26
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Run Forrest Run View Post
60 Day check in:

I’ve been chasing down a low speed ‘squeak’ for weeks. Checked all installation points, etc. Eventually found my alignment tech had only torqued lower control arms down to @ 40-50lbs vs factory 129 Ft lb Spec... After a re-alignment and proper torque, I’m back in spec with zero squeaks!

Over all, I’m extremely satisfied with the Nitro stage 2 kit. The ride is so sporty and solid around high speed turns and at highway speeds. The performance is great plus the stance is perfect to my eye. I’ve yet to go hard off road, but that’s not really my thing at this point either.
Thanks for the update! I've been following your post..

Have you done any off-roading with the new suspension yet? Any rubbing on the body mount?

I ordered a Stage 2 Pro and am wondering if I need to do the body mount chop. I'll be running 285.70/17's on a set of SCS Ray 10's 8.5"
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Old 08-15-2020, 12:23 AM #27
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Nothing more than forrest service roads so far, but I went with this kit because I don’t hard core off-road. Zero rubbing since the trimming, but haven’t come close to stuffing the tires. From talking to Ironman reps and reading other posts, I feel pretty safe without the BMC. That said, I have a grinder and a MIG, so not against it if need be- seems pretty simple. I’m running OE wheels, so your offset may have some effect. Post pics when you are done.
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Old 08-15-2020, 04:15 AM #28
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Run Forrest Run View Post
Nothing more than forrest service roads so far, but I went with this kit because I don’t hard core off-road. Zero rubbing since the trimming, but haven’t come close to stuffing the tires. From talking to Ironman reps and reading other posts, I feel pretty safe without the BMC. That said, I have a grinder and a MIG, so not against it if need be- seems pretty simple. I’m running OE wheels, so your offset may have some effect. Post pics when you are done.
Thanks! - Will-do with the photos.

I'm good doing the BMC also - just wondering if I should do the circumcision while I have everything disassembled.
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Old 08-15-2020, 07:26 AM #29
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Got our Ironman stage 3 kit installed and are really impressed! Also installed 275 KO2's, really loving this setup.
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Old 08-15-2020, 04:42 PM #30
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Got our Ironman stage 3 kit installed and are really impressed! Also installed 275 KO2's, really loving this setup.
Glad to hear- Share photos when you get a chance. To help others:
You went with the Nitro kit, correct?
Which springs did you use?
Did you add any spacers?
Any before/after measurements or actual lift numbers?
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