Yup. Something like this a better solution. Or even a DSR1 from rockford. They take preamp inputs and bypass the factory amp all together

Has anyone tried using the PAC APH-TY04 Speaker Harness to bypass at the JBL amp? Below is the product link to PAC’s site. I have an after market HU with RCA’s out. I’m just looking for a way to bypass the OEM amp and tap into the OEM speaker wires without splicing. If I understand this correctly, I won’t have to run new output speaker wires from an aftermarket amp to my speaks if I use this harness, right?

Speaker Connection Harness - PAC

What are you trying to do? Add your own amp? While I don't know if that harness will work, I can try to point you in the right direction. If you look at the post I made previously in this thread (post #7) there are a couple of wiring diagrams. Those are for for the 2010-2013 5th gens. You'd need to find the ones for your model year. Using the ones posted as an example, the first document (AS-SEP.pdf) has the wiring diagram for the JBL. As you can see in the diagram, the amp uses the connectors N11, N12, N13, N14. So whatever harness you find, it should plug in into those connectors as those are what feed the speakers. The pin layout for those connectors are in that document as well if you scroll down. So check if the connectors of the harness you mentioned above matches the layout. The other option is to get to the amp and check it out visually. You'd need to remove the third row if you have it.

Yes, looking at the 8 channel JBL amp with DSP. Also adding a mono amp and shallow mount 8” aftermarket sub in OEM enclosure. Can you confirm if N12 & N13 are all the speaker outputs from the OEM amp?

So the PAC website states "Speaker Connection Harness for select 2006-2018 Toyota and Lexus vehicles with amplified systems"

And their compatibility chart show this:



Here is a side by side of the pin connectors:





Both look good to me. What do you think? Just need to confirm the N12 and N13 are the OEMs amp's speaker outputs. But so far it looks promising.

Looks like those connectors could work! Based on the wiring diagram, the N12 and N13 are what feed the speakers. While there's a good chance it hasn't changed, those diagrams are for the 10-13 models, so I would try to find one for your model year and verify. Also, one thing I'd recommend is to get a test tone generator so that you can test the wiring before you starting patching and connecting the cables and make sure you don't have any crossed wires. Something like the one in the link below should work. For example (and based on the wiring diagram), if you connect the tone generator to pins 5 and 12 on the N12(B) connector, the passenger rear door speaker should be the one active. With the tone generator you can trace it all the way back to the new amp and make sure the connections are good.

Test tone generator (there are several brands that all look the same)
- Test Tone generator

Build outcome?

I know I'm late to the party, but I found this thread when doing my build. I can confirm that the PAC APH-TY04 works to integrate the factory wiring at the OEM JBL Amp.

I have a 2014 Limited with JBL system. I replaced the headunit with an Alpine F509. I replaced most of the OEM speakers with Focal Toyota OEM replacements--6.5 coax in the hatch and rear doors, plus 6x9 components in the front doors and dash. Those were mostly plug and play. I did end up cutting the tweeter harness and did not have an adapter that worked.

I replaced the OEM sub with a JL Audio 8w3. I had to modify the box a little to get it to fit. There was rectangular support on the inside/back that I had to remove. I did add sound deadening to the outside of the box to help retain some rigidity.

I bypassed the OEM JBL amp with an 8 channel JL Audio amp under the passenger seat. In doing so, I needed to extend the PAC wiring harness wires to reach the amp. I thought about trying to mount the amp closer to the OEM amp, but preferred to locate it somewhere out of sight.

I did use a test tone generator to confirm speaker location. I recall most of the PAC labels were correct. The tweeters and the rear hatch may have been labeled something like "speaker 1" or "speaker 4". I'd need to check my notes from the install to confirm.

PAC LPHTY02 LocPro Advanced T-Harness

used this harness just recently. works like a charm on a 22 orp for kicker speaker replacements and a kicker amp under seat.

I feel like I am halfway down this path. I installed the Alpine F509 (to pick up Apple CarPlay), but now the sound is lacking. I want to swap speakers and sub, and probably need to do the amp too.

Why did you use the PAC adapter rather than just used the pre outs from the head unit? Does the adapter simplify wiring?


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The PAC kit I used is just for connecting to the factory speaker wire. I ran RCAs from the headunit to the amp. The speaker outputs on the amp connect to the PAC wire harness, and the PAC wire harness connects at the JBL amp location. You end up bypassing the JBL amp but using the factory wiring to each speaker location. The benefit is I did not have to run speaker wire from the amp to each speaker location. Note - I did bypass the factory wiring to the OEM sub box. I have speaker wire running from the amp to the OEM box, with a JL 8w3 in there now.

Here's a link to the harness: Speaker Connection Harness - PAC

Gotcha - makes sense! Thanks.

Added to the never ending list of project.


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Here are my notes from wiring up to the JBL harness on my 2014 limited. Wire colors listed below are the PAC harness wires.

• Grey/Grey Black; labeled "FR" - front right (passenger) door speaker
• Grey Blue/Grey Red; labeled "Speaker 5" - front right (passenger) tweeter
• White/White Black; labeled "FL" - front left (driver) door speaker
• White Blue/White Red; labeled "Speaker 4" - front left (driver) tweeter
• Green/Green Black; labeled "RL" - rear left (driver) door speaker
• Purple/Purple Black; labeled "RR" - rear right (passenger) door speaker
• Green White/Green Red; labeled "Speaker 1" - rear hatch left (driver) speaker
• Yellow Blue/Yellow Red; labeled "Speaker 2" - rear hatch right (passenger) speaker
  
• Brown/Brown Black; labeled "Speaker 3" - not used
• Red/Red black; labeled "Sub 1" - not used [note - I didn't wire up the factor sub using the OEM wiring]
• Blue/Blue Black; labeled "Sub 2" - not used [see note above]

Thank you for sharing your set up and findings.

I've come across many people who have done the jbl bypass but none that have shared their method as clearly as you have. Many claim that the dash and front door speakers are wired together in parallel, while others claim otherwise. But from your findings it seems that each of the speakers have its own channel from the stock jbl amp?

planning on doing a jbl bypass soon. thanks for the in sight.