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Old 06-26-2020, 07:46 PM #16
Maingear Maingear is offline
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100 years ago Henry Ford figured out his cars required protection on the battery terminals to prevent corrosion. Toyota leaves that up to the dealership. why is this even an issue for states that salt roads? State attorney generals office should be taking the case for you.

If you went off road and you knocked the protection off, thats on you.

There were Tacomas that had frame rust issues that lead to a recall, but Toyota is going to build them in Mexico. I have a stainless american made cybertruck on order.
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Old 06-26-2020, 08:43 PM #17
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The stuff they use on the roads now is far more effective at melting snow and ice but it's SO much worse for our vehicles. My 11 had really low miles (35k) when I bought it 2 years ago. But it's from Boston. It's got a little surface rust underneath in places. I have fluid filmed the crap out of it each fall and it hasn't got any worse. I'm certainly not going to strip it down and powder coat it like we do on most car/truck frames on vehicles we restore at work but preventative maintenance does go a long way. FWIW any vehicle can rust like the OP's did. In fact parking if the garage the OP parked in was heated it actually makes it worse. ice and snow melt and get into even more places.
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Old 06-26-2020, 08:48 PM #18
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Originally Posted by Maingear View Post
100 years ago Henry Ford figured out his cars required protection on the battery terminals to prevent corrosion. Toyota leaves that up to the dealership. why is this even an issue for states that salt roads? State attorney generals office should be taking the case for you.

If you went off road and you knocked the protection off, thats on you.

There were Tacomas that had frame rust issues that lead to a recall, but Toyota is going to build them in Mexico. I have a stainless american made cybertruck on order.
Any make or model can rust or corrode, if it is sufficiently neglected in a highly corrosive environment.

The Tacoma, Tundra, and Sequoia frames that were more prone to rust, were improperly made In America by Dana Corp. Now Toyota should have done a better job verifying that Dana Corp was making the frames to spec. Dana Corp should have made the frames to spec, and shouldn't have cut corners.

Ultimately Dana Corp had to pay a 25 million dollar judgement for the improperly made frames, and Toyota replaced a bunch of frames.

Even when a steel frame is made properly with anti-rust treatments, if they are sufficiently neglected long enough in a highly corrosive environment, it'll have issues.

I doubt the "Stainless steel" cyber truck is entirely made of stainless steel. If it has regular painted or coated steel, AND it's sufficiently neglected in a highly corrosive environment, it will have rust issues too. Also, stainless steel can corrode.
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Old 06-26-2020, 10:40 PM #19
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You can't just wash the undercarriage thoroughly when it's warm out in the spring. If it drives in salt, it needs constant attention.

My hose freezes in the winter so I let the car wash do an "undercarriage wash" on it and I make sure to go real slow over the sprayers every time. Other than that, if we get a random 50* couple of days anywhere in the dead of winter, you better believe I'll have the hose out.

If it were like a show type of vehicle, it would sit in the garage any time there's a hint of salt on the roads and only ever get washed by me personally. It's not. So I do what I can when my hose is frozen.

8 years old and 140k miles on mine that travels all through NE every winter. It looks way better than that underneath. Either replace any replaceable rusted parts or trade it. Some of that looks bad.

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Old 06-27-2020, 02:00 AM #20
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I'm not trying to pick on you. Really.

The result speaks for itself. Whatever you did wasn't adequate. I'm truly sorry that's the case.
I hear you, and I didn’t take anything you said personally.

To argue the counter point though, what else could I have done? Taken it in for yearly treatments? Added an aftermarket electronic rust preventer? Washed it after every drive? Going back in time to when I was buying, if I had known my options were 1) sell at <130k miles because of rust, or 2) do all of the above rust steps, then I probably wouldn’t have bought it.

A big factor in the decision making process for me was that the 4R was supposed to be a low-headache, long-term vehicle, and truthfully I still think that’s the case when speaking about the motor/tranny or electronics. At the same time, I think it’s unreasonable to wash a car after every drive in the snow, or even to take it in for yearly rust treatments. I say that because I owned other brands that held up much better, for example my e30 bmw had 260k miles on it and was 18 years old when I sold it. Clearly whatever I did to that vehicle wasn’t neglecting - and yet I took BETTER care of the 4R!
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Old 06-27-2020, 02:15 AM #21
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I've owned a bunch of BMW's. They were all unibody. Less nooks and crannies for salt to sit.

A body-on-frame vehicle has that steel frame the body is sitting on. That steel frame is more susceptible to corrosion, as there's lots of places for salt to just sit and work it's destruction. That's true of frames from every manufacturer.

Wash the vehicle, especially the undercarriage, at least once a week in winter is my advice. As others have said, parking in a warm garage when the vehicle is covered in wet salt, will speed up the corrosion.

The salt brine they use is horrible for vehicle longevity. I've been dealing with it all my driving life. I am really giving serious thought to moving somewhere where snow, salt, ice, and rust is a bad memory.
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Old 06-27-2020, 02:17 AM #22
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My preference is to hold onto the 4R as long as I have some confidence that I can drive it to 200k miles without costing a fortune. Does anyone have recommendations for a shop in New England that could assess the frame and drivetrain? I tried scheduling with my dealer a couple days ago to replace a heat shield, but they don’t want to work on it.
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Old 06-27-2020, 05:23 AM #23
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I live on Cape Cod and take the ‘11 T4R out on the ORV beaches pretty much year-round. I hose down my undercarriage religiously and the rust has been kept at bay so far. One thing I stopped doing was driving through the actual salt water at one particular beach where it was unavoidable if you wanted to get it on the sand flats at low tide. My ‘01 rusted out horribly because I’d sometimes take it though deep salt water with not a care in the world.
A few products I use nowadays are POR15 and fluid film. I hope to get even more miles out of my ‘11 than I did my ‘01 which I sold at 250k miles. That truck still ran beautiful and I miss it but the frame was toast.
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Old 06-27-2020, 10:06 AM #24
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I live on Cape Cod and take the ‘11 T4R out on the ORV beaches pretty much year-round. I hose down my undercarriage religiously and the rust has been kept at bay so far. One thing I stopped doing was driving through the actual salt water at one particular beach where it was unavoidable if you wanted to get it on the sand flats at low tide. My ‘01 rusted out horribly because I’d sometimes take it though deep salt water with not a care in the world.
A few products I use nowadays are POR15 and fluid film. I hope to get even more miles out of my ‘11 than I did my ‘01 which I sold at 250k miles. That truck still ran beautiful and I miss it but the frame was toast.
Nice striper in your prof pic! I used to fish at OBX and assateague, and hit my fair share of tidal pools (different vehicle) going a little too fast.

Do you have a shop apply the por15 or fluid film, or do you just do that yourself?
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Old 06-27-2020, 10:49 AM #25
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Bummers about the rust.

take the 14K and trade in for new 4Runner, but do better preventive maintenance next time around.
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Old 06-27-2020, 12:08 PM #26
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Nice striper in your prof pic! I used to fish at OBX and assateague, and hit my fair share of tidal pools (different vehicle) going a little too fast.

Do you have a shop apply the por15 or fluid film, or do you just do that yourself?
Just get 2 or 3 cans of fluid film, use the red straw, spray it in every hole you can see and on the outside of the frame and be done with it. Takes an hour once a year. No biggie, my man. This is coming from a relative non wrencher.
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Old 06-27-2020, 02:35 PM #27
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Just get 2 or 3 cans of fluid film, use the red straw, spray it in every hole you can see and on the outside of the frame and be done with it. Takes an hour once a year. No biggie, my man. This is coming from a relative non wrencher.
Pretty much this. I would flake off any loose stuff you can beforehand though. take out the spare tire and really get in there with a wire brush. short of sandblasting and powder coating you'll never totally stop it but fluid film goes a LONG way. I'm at 68k on mine and hoping for well over 200. Pretty much every body on frame truck or SUV is going to rust just as bad as a 4Runner will given the same amount of care and driving conditions. Take care of it and it'll take care of you.
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Old 06-28-2020, 05:13 PM #28
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I just bought my 2020 ORP and live in northern Illinois where they use tons of salt. I have a undercarriage power washer attachment I plan on using is that not enough and if I go ahead and do the fluid film will the power wash attachment take that off?

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Old 06-28-2020, 05:20 PM #29
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I just bought my 2020 ORP and live in northern Illinois where they use tons of salt. I have a undercarriage power washer attachment I plan on using is that not enough and if I go ahead and do the fluid film will the power wash attachment take that off?

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I don't power wash with fluid film applied. I just wash without pressure, because, yeah, I think enough times doing that will take it off. I would think the fluid film plus regular rinsing would be a much easier path. How would you power wash with a week of January temps well below freezing? Not only that, you're going to be stressing out about washing it after every run in the slat/ice/snow.
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Old 06-28-2020, 05:50 PM #30
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I don't power wash with fluid film applied. I just wash without pressure, because, yeah, I think enough times doing that will take it off. I would think the fluid film plus regular rinsing would be a much easier path. How would you power wash with a week of January temps well below freezing? Not only that, you're going to be stressing out about washing it after every run in the slat/ice/snow.
Ya very true especially in January. I thought about running a hot water pipe into my garage and connecting that to my power washer to blast the undercarriage. Although undercarriage attachment I have doesn't put out crazy amounts of pressure since it spread out through four nozzles.

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