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Old 07-16-2020, 08:39 AM #31
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Quote:
Originally Posted by RusPro17 View Post
I have read many post on tire issues on the 4runner and seem the majority tires are always the more aggressive tire.
I put Michelin Defender LTX's on last fall... one of the tamest tires around, and I'm currently in the process of getting rid of the shimmy's. They were fine in the winter, but as soon as the weather got warm this spring... shimmy at 65-70+mph. The part that sucks the most is that my previous tires - Cooper AT-W's went 65K miles without any steering wheel shimmy issues - ever.

It's not just 'aggressive' tires that can cause the issue.
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Old 07-16-2020, 08:40 AM #32
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Quote:
Originally Posted by RusPro17 View Post
I have read many post on tire issues on the 4runner and seem the majority tires are always the more aggressive tire.
If you scurred go to church.
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Old 07-16-2020, 08:57 AM #33
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ScoMey View Post
I put Michelin Defender LTX's on last fall... one of the tamest tires around, and I'm currently in the process of getting rid of the shimmy's. They were fine in the winter, but as soon as the weather got warm this spring... shimmy at 65-70+mph. The part that sucks the most is that my previous tires - Cooper AT-W's went 65K miles without any steering wheel shimmy issues - ever.

It's not just 'aggressive' tires that can cause the issue.
It’s good to know other tires are causing issues. Hard to believe that the 4runner is so sensitive for wheel
Shake.
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Old 07-16-2020, 10:39 AM #34
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My Cooper AT3 4S (265/70R17 on OEM TRD OR wheels) are causing me vibration headaches as well.

I've been back to Discount Tire 4 times after the original purchase visit. The first two return trips (to different locations, a week apart, less than 100 miles driven) the techs indicated the Road Force was "within spec" and "under 20", but out of balance both times. I finally got someone who knew that they were doing (after a sternly worded phone call to the manager) who indicated two of the tires were over 20lbs of road force, with the highest being 36! Apparently the other two technicians were lying about the numbers. He force-matched all four tires (finally, I've been asking for this every trip) and got the numbers into an "acceptable" range (36 went to 27), but there was still shaking at highway speeds of 70+ mph. I returned, and they replaced the two tires with the highest RF numbers. Now all four are below 20, but there's still the slightest shaking at speeds of 80mph. An alignment did not help but the dealer tech noticed the vibration, and recommended a road force balance . It's still not perfect, and I'm starting to think (convince myself) the vibrations I'm feeling at this point are the effect of significant wind resistance on the semi-aggressive tread and limited model's stiff XREAS suspension at that speed, and I am tired of taking time off work to sit at Discount Tire for hours at a time for something that should have been done right the first time. I was ready to call the situation good enough, and the TPMS light came on the other day . I'm guessing a sensor was damaged during the last visit.

If you have to return once, demand a force match balance Force Matching 180 Procedure - Hunter Engineering Co - YouTube and request to see the numbers so you can begin to diagnose what is going on. In my experience, most techs are kids who don't really give a shit about service beyond the green check box on the balancer.

Next time, I'll be getting something other than the Cooper AT34S, and I'll be going somewhere other than Discount Tire. I would request a replacement set of tires, but I'm not confident those tires will be defect-free and I'm not confident they'll be mounted properly.
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Old 07-16-2020, 11:51 AM #35
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Just swapped out my KO2's for a set of Falken Wildpeaks AT3W's and they are smooth as glass. Compliments to Discount Tires in Newport News VA. Tires were road force balanced and they are perfect. This is my 2nd set of Wildpeaks. 1st set apparently were bad and they could not balance them. Switched to KO2's...biggest mistake ever. Road like a tank and still was not balanced very well. Went back to DT and they ordered another set of Falkens and has them installed this morning and I'm very pleased with them. Didn't realize that KO2's had such bad ratings. Wish I had done my homework first.
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Old 07-16-2020, 06:01 PM #36
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I still need to figure out my issue - at this point I'm almost positive it's not the tires but I'm not really sure what it is.

If the truck's been sitting for a while (at least half a day or so) I'll get pretty bad shake as soon as I get up to 55-60mph. But, after 15 minutes or so of driving it'll settle down. Still present, but very mild and not annoying enough to worry about. That makes me think it's either all four tires being slightly out of round and heating up as I drive, or something else in the suspension that starts out stiff and loosens up during the drive.

I've had the tires rotated and balanced, road force and all, five or six times over the past year, whenever I was in the shop for other things. Never made a lick of difference. At this point it has to be something further up the drivetrain but, like I said, it doesn't really bother me enough to start dumping money into the problem to try and find the root cause. Just mildly annoying.
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Old 07-17-2020, 08:21 PM #37
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Quote:
Originally Posted by axel1 View Post
I still need to figure out my issue - at this point I'm almost positive it's not the tires but I'm not really sure what it is.

If the truck's been sitting for a while (at least half a day or so) I'll get pretty bad shake as soon as I get up to 55-60mph. But, after 15 minutes or so of driving it'll settle down. Still present, but very mild and not annoying enough to worry about. That makes me think it's either all four tires being slightly out of round and heating up as I drive, or something else in the suspension that starts out stiff and loosens up during the drive.

I've had the tires rotated and balanced, road force and all, five or six times over the past year, whenever I was in the shop for other things. Never made a lick of difference. At this point it has to be something further up the drivetrain but, like I said, it doesn't really bother me enough to start dumping money into the problem to try and find the root cause. Just mildly annoying.
When cold that's just flat spotting of the tires. All but the factory Dunlops I have experienced that with.

On mine I have noticed that when it's shaking if I take a moderately hard corner it almost always stops as I enter the corner and usually stays gone.

I'm thinking my problem is lower control arm bushings simply being too soft. I want to go urethane but I don't think they are available as a direct fit for a 5th gen. I may get them for a 4th gen along with the cam bolts for a 4th gen and see if I can make it work.
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Old 07-19-2020, 03:58 PM #38
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702_ which DT are you dealing with in town? I have the same problem on my 20 trdor w/ aftermarket rims(vision) and tires (ko2s)
I've been to the ones at 4840 S. Jones (Jones & Tropicana); at 3830 Blue Diamond Road (Blue Diamond Rd & Valley View Blvd); and at Charleston & Rainbow.

The latter is where I bought the tires. I also went there a few days ago to have the routine rotation & balance done. So now the problem child wheel is in the RR position.

I then completed a lengthy (400+ miles) road trip that included some dirt driving. I occasionally feel a slight vibration that seems to come from the rear. But no noticeable steering wheel shimmy.

This is probably the last rotation for this set of tires. But I don't know what I will replace them with.

I do love that I've never had a flat tire running the BFG's. Including the ATA's I've run on multiple 4WD's. And the MT's on my Wrangler Rubicon. Despite lots of driving on rocky desert and mountain roads and trails. And it sounds like other tires have given 4Runner owners fits.

Haven't yet figured out how to manage a DIY runout test on the wheel. Since I don't have a floor jack or jackstands. And the one DIY garage in Las Vegas went out of business.
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Old 07-26-2020, 04:40 PM #39
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Originally Posted by obxbird View Post
Just swapped out my KO2's for a set of Falken Wildpeaks AT3W's and they are smooth as glass...
Are you using the 115T (Load Range SL) or 121S (Load Range E1)?

With the driving I do, I would prefer the E1's (10 ply rating) vs the SL's (4 ply rating).
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Old 07-28-2020, 02:20 PM #40
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According to the Toyota dealer the vehicle requires; i.)Road Force Balancing ii.) "cone" attachment on balancing machine iii.) torqued to spec as over tightening will cause a shimmy.
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Old 07-28-2020, 03:19 PM #41
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According to the Toyota dealer the vehicle requires; i.)Road Force Balancing ii.) "cone" attachment on balancing machine iii.) torqued to spec as over tightening will cause a shimmy.
In my case, as detailed above, the steering wheel shimmy only occurs when one particular wheel is on the front of the vehicle.

Now that it has been moved to the back, the steering wheel shimmy is gone. Replaced by some occasional vibrations I feel in the driver's seat.

Tomorrow morning I'm going to a tire shop. Hopefully we'll determine once and for all if the rim and/or tire is OOR or otherwise defective.
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Old 07-28-2020, 06:04 PM #42
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 702_SR5 View Post
In my case, as detailed above, the steering wheel shimmy only occurs when one particular wheel is on the front of the vehicle.

Now that it has been moved to the back, the steering wheel shimmy is gone. Replaced by some occasional vibrations I feel in the driver's seat.

Tomorrow morning I'm going to a tire shop. Hopefully we'll determine once and for all if the rim and/or tire is OOR or otherwise defective.
Sounds like it's the wheel to me based on your troubleshooting. Obviously, swapping tires on wheels as part of the rotation process in order to always keep that wheel in back will get expensive. If the dealership or someone else doesn't have the means to check the wheel for defects and replace for free if it is defective, I would just get a used SR5 wheel off Craigslist if you're comfortable with that. I did a quick search on LV craigslist based on your profile saying Las Vegas. Looks like this guy / gal is selling a set of 4 for $100:

Toyota aluminum wheel + tire sets - auto wheels & tires - by owner -...

Don't know if they'd part with just one or if the price is worth getting all four and having spares or if the seller is even close to you, but figured it was worth the suggestion. $100 would be worth it to me to just be done with the hassle and not have to spend the continued time on the issue anymore.

[EDIT] Just realized those wheels are in Prescott, AZ even though I was searching the LV craigslist. Probably not worth the distance to pursue, but I would recommend tracking down a used SR5 wheel somehow, and just biting the bullet and buying it, and swapping out with your current problem wheel if the dealer won't do it for free.

Last edited by socomanche; 07-28-2020 at 06:08 PM.
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Old 07-28-2020, 06:26 PM #43
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 702_SR5 View Post
In my case, as detailed above, the steering wheel shimmy only occurs when one particular wheel is on the front of the vehicle.

Now that it has been moved to the back, the steering wheel shimmy is gone. Replaced by some occasional vibrations I feel in the driver's seat.

Tomorrow morning I'm going to a tire shop. Hopefully we'll determine once and for all if the rim and/or tire is OOR or otherwise defective.
That stinks. Its my fear, hence why I put off getting new wheels. Hopefully you get it sorted. Let us know what the problem was.
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Old 08-10-2020, 03:10 PM #44
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Still no resolution.

However, I was able to spin the wheel on a balancing machine and make a couple of videos with my camera on a tripod.

To me, this wheel appears slightly off when it's spinning, check out the videos and tell me what you think:

From Side - YouTube

End-On - YouTube
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