We put together a video of all the upgrades we did that made our oil changes faster and cleaner...

@LFD_Off_Road Steel Front Skids
Toyota Genuine Parts Oil Filter Element (04152-YZZA5): Amazon.com: Toyota Genuine Parts 04152-YZZA5 Replaceable Oil Filter Element - 04152YZZA5: Automotive
Toyota Genuine Parts Cap Oil Filter (15620-31060): Amazon.com: TOYOTA Genuine Parts - Cap Assy, Oil Filter (15620-31060): Automotive
Fumoto F103 Oil Drain Valve: Amazon.com: Fumoto Original F103S LC-10 Lever Clip FS-Series Engine Oil Drain Valve, 1 Pack: Automotive
MotivX Tools Oil Filter Wrench for Toyotas: Amazon.com: Motivx Tools Oil Filter Wrench for Toyota, Lexus, and Scion 2.0 To 5.7 Liter Engines with 64mm Cartridge Style Oil Filter System - Perfect for Camry, RAV4, Tacoma, Highlander, Sienna, Tundra, and More: Automotive
MotivX Tools Oil Filter Wrench with Drain Hose: Amazon.com: Motivx Tools Oil Filter Wrench and Drain Tool Set for Toyota & Lexus 2.0L - 5.7L Engines with Cartridge Style Oil Filter Systems: Automotive ***This is what I used***
MotivX Tools Oil Filter Wrench with Drain Hose and Funnel: https://amzn.to/2OhUSXN





UPDATE: After one year of using this method and these tools, we wanted to give an update on everything and show off some new tools. So, a new video was definitely in order. On average, I can have an oil change on the 4Runner completed in 20 minutes including "refreshment breaks", talking to my wife, and answering ALL of my son's questions.

Also, MotivX Tools updated their Filter Wrench to not have the tabs. Now it works on any Toyota Engine that utilizes a 64mm Filter Housing, is made in the USA, and all at the same cost as the original wrench. So, of course, I now have both.

...I finally got the video to show up in the original post.

This is great - thank you for posting! Anything that will make crawling under my truck easier, I'm all for.

Two questions: 1-it looks like I'll need to replace the OEM skid on my TRDOR to get this access, correct? 2-what would you estimate as a ballpark cost for the entire conversion?

Thanks again.

How is the aluminum filter cap an upgrade? Aluminum cap threads into the aluminum filter housing threads opens up an opportunity for thread galling not present with the plastic housing. Also if someone manages to cross thread it you are could damage the threads in the housing and not just the cap.

Are the plastic versions prone to cracking or something I don't know about?

Yes, many people have reported them cracking when removing/installing due to repair shops tightening them down with an impact driver etc. That obviously leads to cracks and leaks etc.

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Correct. The stock skids require you to remove them or "swing them out of the way". We destroyed ours off roading. So, its nice to see the LFD Skids holding up so well.

As for the cost: It really depends on what skid plate you go with. Both LFD Off Road's Front Skids (Aluminum or Steel) offer way more protection than the stock skids, and they both have the same access in them.

If you aren't going off road, I would recommend the aluminum - no rust, easy lift into place, and lighter. However, as you can tell from our skids, we are hard on them. So, we went with Steel.

The plastic cap I had was torn up by over-zealous oil change "technicians" at the dealership. This upgrade happened only because as of now I do ALL my own oil changes on the 4Runner. Between cross-threaded drain plugs and over-tightened filter housings, I was done with letting anyone else underneath my rig.

Yep - also why I don't let anyone else touch my 4Runner's engine.

I guess one thing I should have included in the video - Don't overtighten any of this, and always start threading on by hand (which I did not do in the video)

Gotcha...

I feel the same way, I let the dealer do my first "free" service figuring they could handle an oil change and I was rewarded with them stripping out two of the threads out that hold my skid plates on.

My turn!
Any problems accessing the Fumoto valve through the hole in the skid?
Are you using the locking clip on the valve?
I have the valve to be installed at my next oil change. Hoping to get an aftermarket skid plate before then.

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No problems accessing it with the LFD skid. Just enough room to flip the valve open and drain the pan without getting oil on your hands or the skids (provided there isn't a strong wind - it happened once). I don't use a locking clip since the valve "handle" seats really well in the closed position.

It's always really windy here. I have clear vinyl tubing (like in your video) that fits the valve when I get to that point.

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Good video and write up, but...
I am not going to change my plastic cap. Why? Because I'm the only one that has ever changed the oil, and always with the right tools, and replacing the o-rings. I have a Fumoto valve for the drain, that same cap for the filter housing, and the valve to drain the filter housing (although, I prefer it without the tubing. I can see with the LFD skids in place, the tubing may help keep the oil off your hands. I still have my stock skid and I hate having one more squiggly thing to accidentally get oil somewhere or that I have to clean after.)
The one thing I'm doing, as long as I DO have my stock skid plate: I'm changing the bolts out to studs, with flanged nuts. After removing/replacing the bolts a few times I've seen comments on here that some have chased threads to keep them going. Those bolts have the notch in the threads, and they can cut new threads (or start to) and cross thread if you're not careful, so I'm going to make that upgrade. I don't abuse my skid enough to warrant new ones yet... not that I don't want them. Oh, and a little dab of anti-seize on skid plate bolts/studs goes a long way to prevent bad language and busted knuckles.
Additionally, I have a set of ramps. Pull the Runner up on them, and there's plenty of room to creep around underneath. I haven't modified the hooks on the stock skid, either. But I did lose the plastic push-pin on the front lower cover that attaches in front of the skid.

Definitely - it's not for everyone, but I have been super happy with the functionality of it all. For me this setup works the best (only took me 140,000 miles to figure it all out), and I figured I'd share...

I think the biggest thing I am hearing from feedback is the skid plate. People hate dealing with the stock skids to the point that they just let the dealership/whomever handle the oil change. The LFD Off Road skid plates definitely make the entire process much easier.

I definitely need to get a piece of tubing to go from the Fumoto Valve to the drain pan. Lately, I have been draining the filter first and then the pan for this reason.