07-13-2020, 12:53 PM
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#16
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Location: Princeton nj
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Nice Job
Thanks for posting this is a great write up.
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2016 TEP with KDSS in Silver
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07-13-2020, 01:46 PM
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#17
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Senior Member
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Join Date: Aug 2018
Location: Ohio
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Quote:
Originally Posted by HanginInUtah
Good video and write up, but...
I am not going to change my plastic cap. Why? Because I'm the only one that has ever changed the oil, and always with the right tools, and replacing the o-rings. I have a Fumoto valve for the drain, that same cap for the filter housing, and the valve to drain the filter housing (although, I prefer it without the tubing. I can see with the LFD skids in place, the tubing may help keep the oil off your hands. I still have my stock skid and I hate having one more squiggly thing to accidentally get oil somewhere or that I have to clean after.)
The one thing I'm doing, as long as I DO have my stock skid plate: I'm changing the bolts out to studs, with flanged nuts. After removing/replacing the bolts a few times I've seen comments on here that some have chased threads to keep them going. Those bolts have the notch in the threads, and they can cut new threads (or start to) and cross thread if you're not careful, so I'm going to make that upgrade. I don't abuse my skid enough to warrant new ones yet... not that I don't want them. Oh, and a little dab of anti-seize on skid plate bolts/studs goes a long way to prevent bad language and busted knuckles.
Additionally, I have a set of ramps. Pull the Runner up on them, and there's plenty of room to creep around underneath. I haven't modified the hooks on the stock skid, either. But I did lose the plastic push-pin on the front lower cover that attaches in front of the skid.
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Studs - that's a good idea. Even just a few to act as locating pins (if you wanted to continue using the bolts, too) would help with positioning, and spinning nuts onto them right away would be easier than hunting holes with bolts alone. Thanks for the tip! As for anti-seize, I use that almost everywhere. Saves SOOO much trouble down the road.
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11-22-2020, 12:59 PM
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#19
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Join Date: Jan 2020
Location: TX
Posts: 296
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The single best thing that has made changing the oil on my 4Runner (and my previous FJ Cruiser) noticeably easier is my Dewalt 20V 3/8" impact wrench. It has made removing and reinstalling all of the skid plate bolts a piece of cake now. My only regret is not buying one sooner.
I haven't felt the need to change anything else. As another poster said, I'm the only one that's ever changed the oil so the plastic housing won't be an issue. The skid plates are the biggest hassle but even then I don't think they're that big of a deal, especially with the above mentioned impact wrench. My 4Runner is stock height and I change the oil without lifting the front at all (via ramps or jacks).
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2019 TRD ORP
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11-22-2020, 02:33 PM
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#20
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Join Date: Jan 2010
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Metal Head
Gotcha...
I feel the same way, I let the dealer do my first "free" service figuring they could handle an oil change and I was rewarded with them stripping out two of the threads out that hold my skid plates on.
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i also got the same thing happen to me except they cross treaded my two front bolts what pain
thanks for the post and the video very interesting , why do you think the engineers at Toyota went with plastic for 4R and not aluminum if they already had the aluminum as a part?
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11-22-2020, 04:52 PM
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#21
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Join Date: May 2010
Location: Northern NV
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I think it’s what Metal Head suggested in an earlier post, to prevent possible galling.
Plastic has been used inside motors for years, my 1969 Honda CB750 has a plastic cam chain guide. Plastic in transmissions has been around even longer. The Toyota part is excellent quality but you still need to use it correctly and not abuse it.
FWIW, I’ve got the aluminum part sitting on my shelf if I ever decide to use it.
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11-22-2020, 05:11 PM
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#22
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Join Date: Mar 2019
Location: Nyc
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To get proper oil change it requires you too replace the Trd skid with a $650 substitute would it be cheaper just to cut an access panel into a Trd pro skid?
My knowledge is mechanically light so please bare with me
Mike
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11-22-2020, 05:15 PM
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#23
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Banned
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Join Date: Nov 2017
Location: Bay Area, CA
Posts: 2,247
Real Name: Mark
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Banned
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 1000MPH
I think it’s what Metal Head suggested in an earlier post, to prevent possible galling.
Plastic has been used inside motors for years, my 1969 Honda CB750 has a plastic cam chain guide. Plastic in transmissions has been around even longer. The Toyota part is excellent quality but you still need to use it correctly and not abuse it.
FWIW, I’ve got the aluminum part sitting on my shelf if I ever decide to use it.
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Galling is a kind of cold-welding process that happens when there’s a metal-to-metal thread contact under heavy pressure like with smaller nuts and bolts. This large threaded oil filter housing torqued to 18 ft-lbs won’t experience those kind of thread pressures. Plus there’s almost always going to be some residue of oil on the threads which would prevent galling.
Plastic housings are cheaper although more fragile. Another theory is that Toyota saw no need for the metal housing on the 4R since it is protected under a skid plate.
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11-22-2020, 06:03 PM
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#24
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Join Date: Jan 2010
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ElectroBoy
Plastic housings are cheaper although more fragile. Another theory is that Toyota saw no need for the metal housing on the 4R since it is protected under a skid plate.
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you have great point maybe it would be over kill to go with the aluminum but great idea for any one that wants it i like the drain plug for the filter if i was going to do it myself, all i know the oil changes are a pain now it was so easy on the 4th gen.
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11-22-2020, 06:37 PM
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#25
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Join Date: Jul 2018
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Try this again, 1st time must not have made it past the sensors...
For those that have installed the Fumoto valve. Does it leave oil in the pan when draining? It looks to me, that the threads are longer then the pan is thick.
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11-22-2020, 06:47 PM
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#26
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Join Date: Feb 2013
Location: Virginia Piedmont
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Charlievee
Try this again, 1st time must not have made it past the sensors...
For those that have installed the Fumoto valve. Does it leave oil in the pan when draining? It looks to me, that the threads are longer then the pan is thick.
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See post #9 in this thread: oil drain valves
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11-22-2020, 07:08 PM
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#27
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Join Date: Nov 2020
Location: Missouri
Posts: 142
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Join Date: Nov 2020
Location: Missouri
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Awesome vid
Bending the tabs back down? Is there a chance of mistake?
How many time do you think these can be lifted and re-set?
Forum rules requires me to post 15X.
This is number 3?
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11-22-2020, 07:31 PM
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#28
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Banned
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Join Date: Nov 2017
Location: Bay Area, CA
Posts: 2,247
Real Name: Mark
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Charlievee
Try this again, 1st time must not have made it past the sensors...
For those that have installed the Fumoto valve. Does it leave oil in the pan when draining? It looks to me, that the threads are longer then the pan is thick.
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I wondered about the same issue. This question must get asked a lot. The Fumoto FAQ says:
“Q: Does the Fumoto Engine Oil Drain Valve protrude into the oil pan and impede drainage of the engine oil?
A: No. Fumoto Engine Oil Drain Valves are designed to fit individual drain pan specifications and in almost every situation will not extend into the drain pan. However, replacement or aftermarket oil pans may differ from the original oil pan specification and as a result the valve stem may protrude further into oil pan than normal.
If you encounter this situation please contact us to discuss. We will work with you on a solution.”
This could be checked with careful measurement of the oilpan thread distance and the Fumoto valve threads. And accounting for the thickness of the crush washer.
BTW, ValvoMax has a similar FAQ statement:
“ Does any oil get left behind in the oil pan?
No, the valve is designed to sit flush with the inside of the pan, thereby releasing all the oil”
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11-22-2020, 11:59 PM
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#29
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Join Date: Aug 2018
Location: Indiana
Posts: 384
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Join Date: Aug 2018
Location: Indiana
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I use the exact same skid, filters, plug, housing and tools as the OP. Makes things a cinch. Nice part is I can use the tools for my wife’s RAV4. They don’t use a skid like the 4Runner, and the oil filter is a different size, but other than that, everything else goes the same. Even uses the same oil.
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
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02-09-2021, 07:43 AM
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#30
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Join Date: Nov 2020
Location: Missouri
Posts: 142
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Looking for an oil filter housing wrench for 2021 Limited.
Any changes with the Oil Filter Housing last few years.
Amazon says the tool called out by the OP Does Not Fit.
The Motivx website filters stop at 2018.
Thanks
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