Very nice install! Good job. Do you have aftermarket lights in the mirrors? What LED's are you using? Its very bright and something I could add to mine.
I just completed this install, with the modification that instead of having the mirrors fold/unfold based on locking/unlocking the truck, I have them folding with the key in the OFF position, and unfolding with the key in ACC or better (ON or START). I did this by soldering in a small, simple 12v relay to the existing control box.
Thanks to daytonaviolet for the PDF writeup with pictures. It helped immensely. Honestly, I don't know how you'd get the motors installed without that PDF.
I do have a couple of things to add, based on my experience doing this:
1. My mirror connector was round instead of double-square, so I didn't have to separate the halves. (My 4R is a 2018 SR5 with no puddle lights or integrated turn signals, but it does have the heated mirrors.) The inner plug does have to be separated from the barrel though. In the second picture, you can see the tab that has to be pulled back to allow the plug to be pushed out (toward the wires). There's also a wedge on the other side of the barrel that has to be pryed.
2. Toyota included a hook-tab on the mirror base where it goes into the door, so that you can remove the 3 nuts holding the mirror to the door and not worry about the mirror falling out onto the ground. This is the kind of thing that I love about Toyota engineers.
3. I didn't tap any of the stock wires. Since I didn't use the lock/unlock signals, my only external connection was B+ always-on 12v power, which I got from an add-a-fuse into the "passenger power seat" fuse.
4. I routed the 2 motor wires through the stock wiring sleve, to protect them the same way the stock mirror wires are protected.
5. I routed the passenger-side control wires (red & black pair) from the driver's side kick panel, under the steering column, behind the HVAC control panel, down to the area right above the passenger knee airbag, then over to the passenger-side kick panel, and then into the door grommet from there. The included control wires were plenty long, with about a foot or 2 to spare.
I've also included a picture of the back of the painted cover piece, so you can see how to remove it. I think I pryed starting from the pointy part and working my way around the bottom.
Finished and tucked in:
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2018 Toyota 4Runner SR5 4WD, Black, 3rd row seating
Valentine 1 Gen 2/Savvy/concealed display hardwired, with custom power button. DRLs disabled. H9 / 9011 bulbs. Automatic locks disabled. Center console and glove box organized. Custom garage door opener button. Nav wire mod hack (with custom button). CarTrimHome motorized folding mirrors. Anytime backup camera with front parking camera & custom OEM-matching backlight LED.
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2018 Toyota 4Runner SR5 4WD, Black, 3rd row seating
Valentine 1 Gen 2/Savvy/concealed display hardwired, with custom power button. DRLs disabled. H9 / 9011 bulbs. Automatic locks disabled. Center console and glove box organized. Custom garage door opener button. Nav wire mod hack (with custom button). CarTrimHome motorized folding mirrors. Anytime backup camera with front parking camera & custom OEM-matching backlight LED.
Curious how you got it to open and close with the key instead of the lock/unlock?
Don't connect either the Lock Detection or Unlock Detection wires to the truck's wiring.
Add a simple 12v relay as shown. The Power Line wire is connected to the normally-closed relay terminal. The Lock Detection wire is connected to the common relay terminal.
I used a tiny 12v relay that was so small that it would fit inside the CQ-TY02 control box. I did all the connections via soldered wire inside the control box, but it could be done outside on the harness's wires instead.
The reason this works is that the control box already has a function that forces the mirrors to unfold/deploy when the key is in the ACC position or better (via the "ACC/ON" white wire). So all I had to do was trick it into seeing a "lock detection" trigger when the key is turned to OFF. With this circuit, turning the key to OFF depowers the ACC/ON lead, which returns the relay to it's "normal" (rest) state, which connects constant power to the Lock Detection wire. (BTW, the instructions that came with the kit are wrong about the blue/lock-detection wire...they say "negative charge will be sent when the door lock closed". The correction is that momentary (or constant) power to the blue wire tells the control box to fold the mirrors.)
Hand diagram by me:
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2018 Toyota 4Runner SR5 4WD, Black, 3rd row seating
Valentine 1 Gen 2/Savvy/concealed display hardwired, with custom power button. DRLs disabled. H9 / 9011 bulbs. Automatic locks disabled. Center console and glove box organized. Custom garage door opener button. Nav wire mod hack (with custom button). CarTrimHome motorized folding mirrors. Anytime backup camera with front parking camera & custom OEM-matching backlight LED.
thanks for the info. yea i figured the non premium trucks would have a diffrent plug. perhaps i can add your pictures to the DIY.
Quote:
Originally Posted by LakeRunr
I just completed this install, with the modification that instead of having the mirrors fold/unfold based on locking/unlocking the truck, I have them folding with the key in the OFF position, and unfolding with the key in ACC or better (ON or START). I did this by soldering in a small, simple 12v relay to the existing control box.
Thanks to daytonaviolet for the PDF writeup with pictures. It helped immensely. Honestly, I don't know how you'd get the motors installed without that PDF.
I do have a couple of things to add, based on my experience doing this:
1. My mirror connector was round instead of double-square, so I didn't have to separate the halves. (My 4R is a 2018 SR5 with no puddle lights or integrated turn signals, but it does have the heated mirrors.) The inner plug does have to be separated from the barrel though. In the second picture, you can see the tab that has to be pulled back to allow the plug to be pushed out (toward the wires). There's also a wedge on the other side of the barrel that has to be pryed.
2. Toyota included a hook-tab on the mirror base where it goes into the door, so that you can remove the 3 nuts holding the mirror to the door and not worry about the mirror falling out onto the ground. This is the kind of thing that I love about Toyota engineers.
3. I didn't tap any of the stock wires. Since I didn't use the lock/unlock signals, my only external connection was B+ always-on 12v power, which I got from an add-a-fuse into the "passenger power seat" fuse.
4. I routed the 2 motor wires through the stock wiring sleve, to protect them the same way the stock mirror wires are protected.
5. I routed the passenger-side control wires (red & black pair) from the driver's side kick panel, under the steering column, behind the HVAC control panel, down to the area right above the passenger knee airbag, then over to the passenger-side kick panel, and then into the door grommet from there. The included control wires were plenty long, with about a foot or 2 to spare.
I've also included a picture of the back of the painted cover piece, so you can see how to remove it. I think I pryed starting from the pointy part and working my way around the bottom.
They're a little out of focus, but feel free to use them.
If you're going to edit the DIY, can you add a few words about how you opened the mirror housing itself?
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2018 Toyota 4Runner SR5 4WD, Black, 3rd row seating
Valentine 1 Gen 2/Savvy/concealed display hardwired, with custom power button. DRLs disabled. H9 / 9011 bulbs. Automatic locks disabled. Center console and glove box organized. Custom garage door opener button. Nav wire mod hack (with custom button). CarTrimHome motorized folding mirrors. Anytime backup camera with front parking camera & custom OEM-matching backlight LED.
Can I ask which Mirror glass you are using to get the signal indicator? I don't recall that is stock.
It's not. I'm sure they're available somewhere on CTHome.
And there's a part of me that sees the purpose for non-premium mirrors. I truly believe that the NHTSA should require side-mount indicators on all US sold vehicles. Safety shouldn't be an option.
I do wish the arrow wasn't 3-layers deep, though.
For premium owners, it's way too much IMO. The mirror-mount indicators can be seen from a side-offset viewing angle. Designed to be visible by a vehicle in your blind spot.
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Current - 2017 TRD ORP. Nautical Blue
Previous - "TRex" - 2004 Sport Edition V8. 2000 SR5 Sport
Good morning. I wanted to provide some feedback after having these installed and used for a couple months. I purchased the units back in October of 2020 and completed the install about a week later. The pdf install guide provided by daytonaviolet was a must have guide to the install! Thank you
@daytonaviolet
for providing that! The install was actually pretty easy once I got into it and managed to complete the installation without error and my, let's say, extreme attention to detail. . Cool. They are installed and working as expected, I push the button and they fold/unfold. My first observation was "hmm, that motor sounds kinda loud and wimpy". About 2 weeks later the driver side failed. You could hear the motor run but mirror not move. I contacted the seller and he quickly sent out a replacement. Great service and great response! Very much appreciated! I go through the installation of the drivers side again, replacing the drive unit and complete the replacement. Theres no broken tabs, or any other indication of what failed. Now I'm Back in business! Flash forward to today 1/15/2021. Both mirrors are no longer functioning reliably or at all. I hit the button, I can hear the motors and mirrors don't move. I continue that process, press button, motors turn, and maybe 1 in 20 times a mirror folds. Ok, experiment in aftermarket folding mirrors is done. I need them to work every time all the time. I need them to work for years, consistently. I'm in Colorado and need them to work in the snow and slush and ice. I know they can. The folding mirrors on BMW do. So although they may be cool for the show car or maybe even an occasional use they don't work for me. I'll be reluctantly pulling the door skins off again and removing the mirrors and re assembling the stock bump stops. Only because I had the passenger side mirror limply fold back towards the door while going down the highway. Like the mechanism didn't have a grip on the mirror body. I pulled over and pushed it back out and it 'clicked' a little. Still not folding but at least it's staying in the open position for now. I hope others have a better experience and the product mature. Until then I'll be going old school to pull into the garage. Thanks all for the help along the way.
Good morning. I wanted to provide some feedback after having these installed and used for a couple months. I purchased the units back in October of 2020 and completed the install about a week later. The pdf install guide provided by daytonaviolet was a must have guide to the install! Thank you
@daytonaviolet
for providing that! The install was actually pretty easy once I got into it and managed to complete the installation without error and my, let's say, extreme attention to detail. . Cool. They are installed and working as expected, I push the button and they fold/unfold. My first observation was "hmm, that motor sounds kinda loud and wimpy". About 2 weeks later the driver side failed. You could hear the motor run but mirror not move. I contacted the seller and he quickly sent out a replacement. Great service and great response! Very much appreciated! I go through the installation of the drivers side again, replacing the drive unit and complete the replacement. Theres no broken tabs, or any other indication of what failed. Now I'm Back in business! Flash forward to today 1/15/2021. Both mirrors are no longer functioning reliably or at all. I hit the button, I can hear the motors and mirrors don't move. I continue that process, press button, motors turn, and maybe 1 in 20 times a mirror folds. Ok, experiment in aftermarket folding mirrors is done. I need them to work every time all the time. I need them to work for years, consistently. I'm in Colorado and need them to work in the snow and slush and ice. I know they can. The folding mirrors on BMW do. So although they may be cool for the show car or maybe even an occasional use they don't work for me. I'll be reluctantly pulling the door skins off again and removing the mirrors and re assembling the stock bump stops. Only because I had the passenger side mirror limply fold back towards the door while going down the highway. Like the mechanism didn't have a grip on the mirror body. I pulled over and pushed it back out and it 'clicked' a little. Still not folding but at least it's staying in the open position for now. I hope others have a better experience and the product mature. Until then I'll be going old school to pull into the garage. Thanks all for the help along the way.
Sorry to hear about this. Let’s swap out for another kit. I’ve had mine on side day one and it’s setup to auto fold every time i lock and unlock. So far no issues since installed early September.
Good morning. I wanted to provide some feedback after having these installed and used for a couple months. I purchased the units back in October of 2020 and completed the install about a week later. The pdf install guide provided by daytonaviolet was a must have guide to the install! Thank you
@daytonaviolet
for providing that! The install was actually pretty easy once I got into it and managed to complete the installation without error and my, let's say, extreme attention to detail. . Cool. They are installed and working as expected, I push the button and they fold/unfold. My first observation was "hmm, that motor sounds kinda loud and wimpy". About 2 weeks later the driver side failed. You could hear the motor run but mirror not move. I contacted the seller and he quickly sent out a replacement. Great service and great response! Very much appreciated! I go through the installation of the drivers side again, replacing the drive unit and complete the replacement. Theres no broken tabs, or any other indication of what failed. Now I'm Back in business! Flash forward to today 1/15/2021. Both mirrors are no longer functioning reliably or at all. I hit the button, I can hear the motors and mirrors don't move. I continue that process, press button, motors turn, and maybe 1 in 20 times a mirror folds. Ok, experiment in aftermarket folding mirrors is done. I need them to work every time all the time. I need them to work for years, consistently. I'm in Colorado and need them to work in the snow and slush and ice. I know they can. The folding mirrors on BMW do. So although they may be cool for the show car or maybe even an occasional use they don't work for me. I'll be reluctantly pulling the door skins off again and removing the mirrors and re assembling the stock bump stops. Only because I had the passenger side mirror limply fold back towards the door while going down the highway. Like the mechanism didn't have a grip on the mirror body. I pulled over and pushed it back out and it 'clicked' a little. Still not folding but at least it's staying in the open position for now. I hope others have a better experience and the product mature. Until then I'll be going old school to pull into the garage. Thanks all for the help along the way.
While not in the same boast mine are already having issues with not going out to the same location every time and they tend not to fully extend so I either have to manually move them out just a smidge or read ajust the mirrors, but then the next time they will go fully out and of course have to adjust again. So far it's not happening every-time but it is something I am watching closely. Have not installed the second kit I ordered for my wife's 4Runner just yet because of this.
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2014 Trail Edition Premium, 285/70/R17 BFG KM2, RadFlo 2.5" Coilovers and Rear Shocks, 50qt ARB Fridge, OTRATTW Switches, BudBuilt Bumpout Sliders, Gobi Rack + Ladder / 40" Rigid E2 /Rotopax and MaxTrax mounted, ARB CKMTA12, 270amp Alternator, Southern Style Slimline Hybrid Front Bumper w/ Warn Zeon 10S and Front Fogs, Metal Oil Canister, Sound Deadening Insulation w/ Focal Front Speakers,Black Weather Tech mats and custom pin striping & dents (the trees & bushes did it for free)