08-02-2020, 07:27 PM
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#16
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Join Date: Oct 2014
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dipNrip
The filter only needs hand tightened. I check with torque wrench but never moves after I hand tighten.
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you can hand tighten it fully? over the o-ring on the housing? I think I need to see pics of your forearms, mr. hercules, cause thats some grip strength.
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08-02-2020, 07:52 PM
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#17
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Senior Member
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Join Date: Apr 2015
Location: I. E. So. Cal
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jahdai42
Definitely going to try this tomorrow when I'm not so pissed.
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Haha good advice, I almost always regret when I don't follow it myself.
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08-02-2020, 07:53 PM
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#18
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Join Date: Aug 2018
Location: Texas
Posts: 127
Real Name: Eric
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Join Date: Aug 2018
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Quote:
Originally Posted by yota1976
Is it hard to replace the factory plastic housing for an aluminum one? I might upgrade to that later.
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Very easy. For details, see this article that I wrote:
Metal Oil Filter Housing Upgrade + Motivx Tools Oil Filter Wrench
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08-02-2020, 08:25 PM
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#19
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Join Date: Apr 2009
Location: PA
Posts: 46
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Quote:
Originally Posted by HerT4R
you can hand tighten it fully? over the o-ring on the housing? I think I need to see pics of your forearms, mr. hercules, cause thats some grip strength.
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It’s only 18 ft-lb. I don’t even try to get it as tight as possible. Just lube up the o ring real good and go until it’s tight. I only double check with torque wrench to make sure it the whole way on.
On the oil filter I’d recommend the Toyota one. I’ve had issues with the Doman brand in general. Only thing you need to do is bend the tabs on the center post inside the housing and transfer it to the new one.
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08-02-2020, 08:33 PM
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#20
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Join Date: Feb 2019
Location: Texas
Posts: 500
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Quote:
Originally Posted by HerT4R
you can hand tighten it fully? over the o-ring on the housing? I think I need to see pics of your forearms, mr. hercules, cause thats some grip strength.
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You built like a 12 year old girl?
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08-03-2020, 08:51 AM
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#21
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Join Date: Oct 2014
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dipNrip
It’s only 18 ft-lb. I don’t even try to get it as tight as possible. Just lube up the o ring real good and go until it’s tight. I only double check with torque wrench to make sure it the whole way on.
On the oil filter I’d recommend the Toyota one. I’ve had issues with the Doman brand in general. Only thing you need to do is bend the tabs on the center post inside the housing and transfer it to the new one.
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mine gets too tight to continue by hand without some serious fight so I just start it by hand and then finish it with a tool after it hits the o-ring. My skids dont give me a whole lot of room to fight with the filter so why not use the tool? I always finish with the torque wrench and it tightens down a little before clicking for me.
*back to the OP, theres been times when I had to take a large screwdriver and drive it through a metal canister style oil filter because it was overtightened. Idk how that would work with this type of housing, it might just splinter on you and you need to be able to get the plastic threads out, without carefully cutting them with a dremel. let us know what you come up with OP.
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08-03-2020, 10:49 AM
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#22
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Join Date: Dec 2017
Posts: 52
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dipNrip
The filter only needs hand tightened. I check with torque wrench but never moves after I hand tighten.
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I’m calling BS as well. There’s no f’ing way you can torque anything to 216 inch lbs aka 18 foot lbs with your hands. Nope.
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08-03-2020, 10:49 AM
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#23
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Join Date: Dec 2013
Location: Fairfax, VA
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ElectroBoy
This. Hit the threads with penetrant. But before attacking with a dremel, first try a persuader.
Get large channel lock pliers or a pipe wrench. Pull slowly, the rubber gasket was probably not lubed before installation and it binds. If the cover breaks apart, use the dremel.
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thanks again, worked like a charm. I threaded 36" of black iron pipe on the end and boom. Replaced with the Dorman metal cap.
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08-03-2020, 10:59 AM
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#24
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Join Date: Aug 2018
Location: N California (really, 4 hours N of SF)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jahdai42
thanks again, worked like a charm. I threaded 36" of black iron pipe on the end and boom. Replaced with the Dorman metal cap.
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Keep an eye on the dorman, plenty of reports here it doesn't seal like the factory aluminum one does.
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08-03-2020, 05:34 PM
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#25
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Banned
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Location: Bay Area, CA
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jrandom
Just make sure the center tube is the right length, I am pretty sure the part number listed here on the forums has a center tube that is too long, mine was. It is super easy to swap from your old plastic housing.
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I believe it’s just the reverse. The plastic Toyota 4R filter housing has a long center tube while the Toyota aluminum one, which fits other models, is shorter. You’ll verify this when you see them side by side.
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08-03-2020, 08:40 PM
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#26
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Join Date: Sep 2013
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Age: 55
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ElectroBoy
I believe it’s just the reverse. The plastic Toyota 4R filter housing has a long center tube while the Toyota aluminum one, which fits other models, is shorter. You’ll verify this when you see them side by side.
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Thanks for the sanity check, fixed. yeah couldn’t remember exactly, it has been years since I changed it out, I just know it’s wasn’t straight across swap.
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Last edited by jrandom; 08-03-2020 at 08:50 PM.
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08-04-2020, 03:33 AM
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#27
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A 27mm Craftsman wrench works well with the MotivX oil filter wrench instead of a socket and breaker bar. Assuming you have the skid plate off. It's ~14.5" long.
Last edited by TommyG; 08-04-2020 at 03:49 AM.
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08-04-2020, 07:56 AM
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#28
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This Assenmacher wrench fits completely over the tabs and on the notches.
Its a good design and not some cheap crap made in China that's funding the Red Army like so many wrenches I see people here using that 'eff up the filter housing.
Assenmacher Tool of Boulder, Colorado Toyota Filter Wrench
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08-04-2020, 09:20 AM
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#29
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I also hand tighten mine. Go until the tab lines up. It's quite easy.
I had mine stuck, the tabs ripped off, and the entire thing tore apart as I tried everything to remove it. The threaded part remained.
In the end, I spent hours with an old soldering iron, melting away at the threaded part so that I wouldn't jack the threads up on the metal part of the engine that receives it.
It was a total nightmare. As you can see in the photo.
Now I have a metal housing, I hand tighten, and I have had no issues
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08-04-2020, 01:05 PM
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#30
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Quote:
Originally Posted by nb rob
I also hand tighten mine. Go until the tab lines up. It's quite easy.
I had mine stuck, the tabs ripped off, and the entire thing tore apart as I tried everything to remove it. The threaded part remained.
In the end, I spent hours with an old soldering iron, melting away at the threaded part so that I wouldn't jack the threads up on the metal part of the engine that receives it.
It was a total nightmare. As you can see in the photo.
Now I have a metal housing, I hand tighten, and I have had no issues
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Fun day there
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