08-02-2020, 11:24 PM
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#1
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Junior Member
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Join Date: Apr 2018
Location: East Coast
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Rear License Plate Screw?
Does anyone know the sizing and type of screw for the rear license plate?
Looks like I have one rusting from the dealer....
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08-02-2020, 11:25 PM
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#2
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Join Date: Apr 2019
Location: Los Angeles, CA
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Quote:
Originally Posted by TerpRunner
Does anyone know the sizing and type of screw for the rear license plate?
Looks like I have one rusting from the dealer....
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Double check the length but I believe the screw is a 6mm x 1.0 threads
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08-03-2020, 12:16 AM
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#3
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Join Date: Dec 2015
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Real Name: Mark
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I think above is correct. I took the OEM screws to Lowe's and ran it through their thread gage and bought stainless screws to replace them, though slightly longer to accommodate my university plate frame.
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08-03-2020, 12:22 AM
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#4
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Join Date: Mar 2015
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I ordered this package from Amazon a couple month back. Since I wasn't sure the length I got the extended ones too, though didn't need them. Had a set of both short and long that fit just fine, so I gave up on my rusty old OEM ones that needed WD40 to move them every time I had to change plates. Rust belt living at its best.
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08-03-2020, 01:25 AM
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#5
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Since here we are, I was thinking about buying one of those silicon frames. Any downsides? I think they are marketed for limiting bass rattle but really I just don't want a frame, they are mostly just a backing/buffer for the plate
Edit edit: If anyone wants to send me a cool instagram frame well then we can sort something out. Discount on sliders/skids a ++
Last edited by NorthPark; 08-03-2020 at 01:29 AM.
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08-03-2020, 08:46 AM
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#6
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Location: Martinsville, IN
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The liceense plate screws were the first set of "toyota special corrosion resistant hardware" I had to replace when I bought my rig. Snapped the head right off without much torquing. Both were rusted solid. I had to drill them out and put in new ones. So far the trash hardware is my biggest complaint with the 4R. I don't care about the mpg, minimal power, lack of updates, but at least find a supplier that can provide hardware that won't weld itself immediately.
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08-03-2020, 11:19 AM
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#7
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Ogre75
The liceense plate screws were the first set of "toyota special corrosion resistant hardware" I had to replace when I bought my rig. Snapped the head right off without much torquing. Both were rusted solid. I had to drill them out and put in new ones. So far the trash hardware is my biggest complaint with the 4R. I don't care about the mpg, minimal power, lack of updates, but at least find a supplier that can provide hardware that won't weld itself immediately.
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Interesting. I have been driving Toyotas for close to 50 years and have never had a problem with hardware on any of them. Maybe it is because I have never lived in the "rust belt" or I have just been lucky. Another thing--Except for lug nuts/wheel studs--just brush threads on those, I use silicone spray on the threads of any fittings , use a brush to remove debris, then apply a thin coat of anti-seize.
Last edited by TOYO74; 08-03-2020 at 11:27 AM.
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08-03-2020, 11:22 AM
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#8
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Join Date: Jun 2020
Location: Denver, CO
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Quote:
Originally Posted by NorthPark
Since here we are, I was thinking about buying one of those silicon frames. Any downsides? I think they are marketed for limiting bass rattle but really I just don't want a frame, they are mostly just a backing/buffer for the plate
Edit edit: If anyone wants to send me a cool instagram frame well then we can sort something out. Discount on sliders/skids a ++
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I got the silicone frame on mine. Probably won't ever go back to normal frames. The silicone provides a nice cushion so the plate doesn't rattle over big impacts or when closing the tailgate.
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08-03-2020, 11:37 AM
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#9
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Ogre75
The liceense plate screws were the first set of "toyota special corrosion resistant hardware" I had to replace when I bought my rig. Snapped the head right off without much torquing. Both were rusted solid. I had to drill them out and put in new ones. So far the trash hardware is my biggest complaint with the 4R. I don't care about the mpg, minimal power, lack of updates, but at least find a supplier that can provide hardware that won't weld itself immediately.
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Both my screws were rusted in place and the heads snapped off when I finally removed my CO license plates.
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08-03-2020, 01:27 PM
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#10
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Join Date: Aug 2020
Location: South FL
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I have a few project cars and always replace as much hardware as I can with stainless steel.
I buy in bulk from McMasterCarr ( McMaster-Carr) and it's much cheaper than going to the local store.
I have a Black Nightshade so I replaced the license plate bolts with black stainless steel M6x1.0 bolts. The length was 25mm (1in) but they don't have to be that long. I just like to order that size to use in various locations. For the most part any bolt that uses a 10mm socket to remove will most likely be a M6x1.0 thread size. I usually like to replace bolts like this with socket head screws that use an Allen wrench.
I also bought the silicon frame because I hate the bare frame but also don't like bulky frames. So far so good.
Hope this helps.
Edit: This is the number to the exact bolts that I purchased for the license plate frame on McMasters website 90348A029. If you type that in the search it will pop up. At the time of typing it's $15 for a pack of 50. 50 is a lot, but if you're like me you'll find plenty of uses for it lol. This size has fit every Japanese car I've ever replaced the bolts on the license plate and I even think some American cars use a plastic insert for the license plate bolts that will accept it, but not 100% on that.
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Last edited by FALFC3S; 08-03-2020 at 01:35 PM.
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08-04-2020, 09:51 PM
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#11
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Saved my Runner from northern Ohio rust. At 2-1/2 years one of mine was rusted to the point that the rust had spread to the tailgate on one side...the other side was a plastic push-in unit.
Got a tap to open the left side and remove the rust and replaced all with stainless and some anti-rust compound.
Oh sorry to answer original question -- take old bolt to hardware store template as suggested...
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08-05-2020, 12:02 AM
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#12
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I got these at Amazon and used the M6x16mm.
Cap screw so I could add a black vinyl cap.
Someone said any longer than stock and you might interfere or scratch your back window when rolled down.
50 PCS Socket Head Cap Screw Assortment Set, M6 x 10mm, 12mm, 16mm, 20mm, and 25mm, Stainless Steel 304, Bright Finish Amazon.com: 50 PCS Socket Head Cap Screw Assortment Set, M6 x 10mm, 12mm, 16mm, 20mm, and 25mm, Stainless Steel 304, Bright Finish: Home Improvement
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08-05-2020, 12:43 PM
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#13
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Join Date: Aug 2020
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 1000MPH
Someone said any longer than stock and you might interfere or scratch your back window when rolled down.
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Great point and thankfully I have not put the rear window down yet with the new bolts. I’ll have to check and make sure.
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08-05-2020, 01:33 PM
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#14
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I went with titanium screws for the license plate. Never thought about replacing the screws holding the license plate light cover. Anyone know the size of those screws off the top of their heads ? Thanks !
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08-05-2020, 01:39 PM
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#15
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Quote:
Originally Posted by NorthPark
Since here we are, I was thinking about buying one of those silicon frames. Any downsides? I think they are marketed for limiting bass rattle but really I just don't want a frame, they are mostly just a backing/buffer for the plate
Edit edit: If anyone wants to send me a cool instagram frame well then we can sort something out. Discount on sliders/skids a ++
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I have one of the silicone frames. I recommend it. It stops any rattling of the plate and it frames it in a way that doesn't interfere with the design of the plate.
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