08-09-2020, 07:41 PM
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#16
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Tuco Ramirez
Replacing the plastic with metal is not a solution. The problem is dildos installing the plastic one incorrectly, they’d prob screw up the metal one somehow too.
I have done multiple oil changes on three 5th gen 4runners as well as a camry, all with the plastic, and never had an issue. Not sure why the brain trusts on this board think switching to metal is going to fix everything and make life all hunky dory.
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I realize that, I'm only suggesting that he get what I and many others consider to be a superior part because the plastic one he has is already ruined. I never said anything about it "fixing everything" so please refrain from name calling and inferring what people here are saying. I'm fully aware that a jerk can over tighten the aluminum one as well. You'd think the dealer could at least instruct their personnel how to use a torque wrench. I've had "mechanics" use a filter wrench on a spin on filter too so nothing is a fix if the installer is incompetent.
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08-09-2020, 07:52 PM
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#17
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Senior Member
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Join Date: Jan 2010
Location: Atlanta , GA
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Thanks for the tips guys. I don't care what material metal or FRP/plastic, as long as it holds and seals I'll be fine. Looks like I'm driving the racecar to work until I can find time to chisel the housing off! Will def share pictures as i'm going through the process.
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08-09-2020, 08:22 PM
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#18
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Join Date: Nov 2019
Location: Tennessee
Age: 47
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bak3rme
Thanks for the tips guys. I don't care what material metal or FRP/plastic, as long as it holds and seals I'll be fine. Looks like I'm driving the racecar to work until I can find time to chisel the housing off! Will def share pictures as i'm going through the process.
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Haha, I've got a street/strip truck, but I really would hate to drive it to work more than a few days in a row! 10 mpg's (driving normal), no windshield wipers and the engine sticking out of the hood, haha.
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08-09-2020, 11:10 PM
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#19
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Join Date: Aug 2006
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I have a metal cap where the ratchet/extension male fits into the camp tool and that has never stripped on me.
BUT, I grew so frustrated at how this oil cap made me feel like a rookie mechanic that I spent this past weekend installing a full Baxter relocation setup:
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08-10-2020, 03:07 AM
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#20
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Banned
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Join Date: Nov 2017
Location: Bay Area, CA
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Real Name: Mark
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You’re in samurai warrior mode now. Get your new replacement Toyota metal housing and new oil filter and gaskets on deck and attack that busted up plastic filter.
Get a large channel lock pliers or a plumber’s pipe wrench. Engulf that plastic housing high up the best you can, and unscrew it by pulling on the wrench slowly with constant force. No sudden movements. You may need additional leverage with a length of pipe over the handle of the wrench. In addition to being cranked on too tight the rubber gasket was probably not lubed before installation and it binds.
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08-10-2020, 08:03 AM
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#21
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Join Date: Apr 2018
Location: Martinsville, IN
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Retrieve the 5# precision sledge instrument from the Jeremy Clarkson tool drawer and get to work...
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08-10-2020, 10:14 AM
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#22
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Join Date: Nov 2016
Location: Sand Point, Idaho
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Tuco Ramirez
Replacing the plastic with metal is not a solution. The problem is dildos installing the plastic one incorrectly, they’d prob screw up the metal one somehow too.
I have done multiple oil changes on three 5th gen 4runners as well as a camry, all with the plastic, and never had an issue. Not sure why the brain trusts on this board think switching to metal is going to fix everything and make life all hunky dory.
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Because the metal ones look macho and pretty at the same time .
I like plastic--DIY and no dealer dork problems.
Last edited by TOYO74; 08-10-2020 at 12:42 PM.
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08-10-2020, 10:17 AM
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#23
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Location: CA
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You're likely going to have to break the housing off. They probably impacted it on, and being it didn't crack then is honestly a god send for you.
I switched over to the metal housing, all that is required to change is the inner spring? Or whatever the piece is officially called. Then it's metal and you can use more power on it.
I use the MotivX removal tool for mine and it's worked flawlessly. I always recommend to use the socket over sticking the 3/8" in. Just get more control on it that way.
You may want to use a larger breaker bar or stack up some extensions on it to get more torque. It will pop loose, it's just a pain. This and the stripped skid plate holes is exactly what I stopped going to Toyota for things I could do myself.
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08-10-2020, 10:51 AM
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#24
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Junior Member
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THIS. This is just one of the many complaints I have with the 5th generation 4Runner. In addition to stuck filter housing, you'll also get stuck filter housing plug, and that's after you have to remove the skid plate and trim just to reach them. I could change the oil in my 4th gen in under 15 minutes. Now it's an hour or more, plus the above setbacks.
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08-10-2020, 06:28 PM
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#25
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Join Date: Jan 2020
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Tuco Ramirez
Replacing the plastic with metal is not a solution. The problem is dildos installing the plastic one incorrectly, they’d prob screw up the metal one somehow too.
I have done multiple oil changes on three 5th gen 4runners as well as a camry, all with the plastic, and never had an issue. Not sure why the brain trusts on this board think switching to metal is going to fix everything and make life all hunky dory.
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Amen.
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08-10-2020, 06:37 PM
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#26
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Join Date: Nov 2016
Location: Sand Point, Idaho
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Das Capitolin
THIS. This is just one of the many complaints I have with the 5th generation 4Runner. In addition to stuck filter housing, you'll also get stuck filter housing plug, and that's after you have to remove the skid plate and trim just to reach them. I could change the oil in my 4th gen in under 15 minutes. Now it's an hour or more, plus the above setbacks.
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Sell now--you will be happier.
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08-29-2020, 11:27 AM
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#27
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Location: Toronto
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I put an aluminum one on yesterday for peace of mind, never had an issue with the plastic one other than taking it off sounded like it was about to crack and I always caked the threads and gasket in oil. The aluminum seemed to thread on much more precise, I was able to hand tighten it all the way then snug it appropriately, and it stops hard as it should no way you can crank it tighter as was allowable with the plastic housing. This part should have been used on this motor in my humble opinion.
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Last edited by 17KT4R; 08-29-2020 at 11:32 AM.
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08-29-2020, 01:54 PM
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#28
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Senior Member
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Played this game again today and only wish Toyota could have made it more complicated. I must have torqued the "filter drain cap, plug thingy, P.O.S" a bit to much and was turning the whole housing. Grabbed the trusty vise-grip oil filter wrench and made short work of separating the two pieces.I Really need to convert it to a normal filter.
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08-29-2020, 02:43 PM
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#29
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Do you have pics of the completed product?
Quote:
Originally Posted by Ape Runner
I have a metal cap where the ratchet/extension male fits into the camp tool and that has never stripped on me.
BUT, I grew so frustrated at how this oil cap made me feel like a rookie mechanic that I spent this past weekend installing a full Baxter relocation setup:
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08-29-2020, 08:58 PM
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#30
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Senior Member
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Join Date: Apr 2015
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Tuco Ramirez
Replacing the plastic with metal is not a solution. The problem is dildos installing the plastic one incorrectly, they’d prob screw up the metal one somehow too.
I have done multiple oil changes on three 5th gen 4runners as well as a camry, all with the plastic, and never had an issue. Not sure why the brain trusts on this board think switching to metal is going to fix everything and make life all hunky dory.
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I bet overtightened metal withstands removal better than overtightened plastic. Maybe not a solution, but certainly an improvement.
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