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Old 08-09-2020, 07:41 PM #16
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Tuco Ramirez View Post
Replacing the plastic with metal is not a solution. The problem is dildos installing the plastic one incorrectly, they’d prob screw up the metal one somehow too.
I have done multiple oil changes on three 5th gen 4runners as well as a camry, all with the plastic, and never had an issue. Not sure why the brain trusts on this board think switching to metal is going to fix everything and make life all hunky dory.
I realize that, I'm only suggesting that he get what I and many others consider to be a superior part because the plastic one he has is already ruined. I never said anything about it "fixing everything" so please refrain from name calling and inferring what people here are saying. I'm fully aware that a jerk can over tighten the aluminum one as well. You'd think the dealer could at least instruct their personnel how to use a torque wrench. I've had "mechanics" use a filter wrench on a spin on filter too so nothing is a fix if the installer is incompetent.
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Old 08-09-2020, 07:52 PM #17
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Thanks for the tips guys. I don't care what material metal or FRP/plastic, as long as it holds and seals I'll be fine. Looks like I'm driving the racecar to work until I can find time to chisel the housing off! Will def share pictures as i'm going through the process.
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Old 08-09-2020, 08:22 PM #18
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bak3rme View Post
Thanks for the tips guys. I don't care what material metal or FRP/plastic, as long as it holds and seals I'll be fine. Looks like I'm driving the racecar to work until I can find time to chisel the housing off! Will def share pictures as i'm going through the process.
Haha, I've got a street/strip truck, but I really would hate to drive it to work more than a few days in a row! 10 mpg's (driving normal), no windshield wipers and the engine sticking out of the hood, haha.
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Old 08-09-2020, 11:10 PM #19
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I have a metal cap where the ratchet/extension male fits into the camp tool and that has never stripped on me.

BUT, I grew so frustrated at how this oil cap made me feel like a rookie mechanic that I spent this past weekend installing a full Baxter relocation setup:
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Oil filter - Rant - call for help-1051e106-5f90-4d6f-a4a1-7b3985d80b8c-jpeg  Oil filter - Rant - call for help-c2c16913-1a13-4ace-9c22-ec47069d6606-jpeg 
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Old 08-10-2020, 03:07 AM #20
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You’re in samurai warrior mode now. Get your new replacement Toyota metal housing and new oil filter and gaskets on deck and attack that busted up plastic filter.

Get a large channel lock pliers or a plumber’s pipe wrench. Engulf that plastic housing high up the best you can, and unscrew it by pulling on the wrench slowly with constant force. No sudden movements. You may need additional leverage with a length of pipe over the handle of the wrench. In addition to being cranked on too tight the rubber gasket was probably not lubed before installation and it binds.
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Oil filter - Rant - call for help-9b6c5ccc-6ceb-4044-b322-9c33661baece-jpeg 
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Old 08-10-2020, 08:03 AM #21
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Retrieve the 5# precision sledge instrument from the Jeremy Clarkson tool drawer and get to work...
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Old 08-10-2020, 10:14 AM #22
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Tuco Ramirez View Post
Replacing the plastic with metal is not a solution. The problem is dildos installing the plastic one incorrectly, they’d prob screw up the metal one somehow too.
I have done multiple oil changes on three 5th gen 4runners as well as a camry, all with the plastic, and never had an issue. Not sure why the brain trusts on this board think switching to metal is going to fix everything and make life all hunky dory.
Because the metal ones look macho and pretty at the same time .
I like plastic--DIY and no dealer dork problems.

Last edited by TOYO74; 08-10-2020 at 12:42 PM.
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Old 08-10-2020, 10:17 AM #23
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You're likely going to have to break the housing off. They probably impacted it on, and being it didn't crack then is honestly a god send for you.

I switched over to the metal housing, all that is required to change is the inner spring? Or whatever the piece is officially called. Then it's metal and you can use more power on it.

I use the MotivX removal tool for mine and it's worked flawlessly. I always recommend to use the socket over sticking the 3/8" in. Just get more control on it that way.

You may want to use a larger breaker bar or stack up some extensions on it to get more torque. It will pop loose, it's just a pain. This and the stripped skid plate holes is exactly what I stopped going to Toyota for things I could do myself.
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Old 08-10-2020, 10:51 AM #24
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THIS. This is just one of the many complaints I have with the 5th generation 4Runner. In addition to stuck filter housing, you'll also get stuck filter housing plug, and that's after you have to remove the skid plate and trim just to reach them. I could change the oil in my 4th gen in under 15 minutes. Now it's an hour or more, plus the above setbacks.
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Old 08-10-2020, 06:28 PM #25
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Tuco Ramirez View Post
Replacing the plastic with metal is not a solution. The problem is dildos installing the plastic one incorrectly, they’d prob screw up the metal one somehow too.
I have done multiple oil changes on three 5th gen 4runners as well as a camry, all with the plastic, and never had an issue. Not sure why the brain trusts on this board think switching to metal is going to fix everything and make life all hunky dory.
Amen.
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Old 08-10-2020, 06:37 PM #26
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Das Capitolin View Post
THIS. This is just one of the many complaints I have with the 5th generation 4Runner. In addition to stuck filter housing, you'll also get stuck filter housing plug, and that's after you have to remove the skid plate and trim just to reach them. I could change the oil in my 4th gen in under 15 minutes. Now it's an hour or more, plus the above setbacks.
Sell now--you will be happier.
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Old 08-29-2020, 11:27 AM #27
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I put an aluminum one on yesterday for peace of mind, never had an issue with the plastic one other than taking it off sounded like it was about to crack and I always caked the threads and gasket in oil. The aluminum seemed to thread on much more precise, I was able to hand tighten it all the way then snug it appropriately, and it stops hard as it should no way you can crank it tighter as was allowable with the plastic housing. This part should have been used on this motor in my humble opinion.
Oil filter - Rant - call for help-adjustments-jpg
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Old 08-29-2020, 01:54 PM #28
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Played this game again today and only wish Toyota could have made it more complicated. I must have torqued the "filter drain cap, plug thingy, P.O.S" a bit to much and was turning the whole housing. Grabbed the trusty vise-grip oil filter wrench and made short work of separating the two pieces.I Really need to convert it to a normal filter.
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Old 08-29-2020, 02:43 PM #29
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Do you have pics of the completed product?

Quote:
Originally Posted by Ape Runner View Post
I have a metal cap where the ratchet/extension male fits into the camp tool and that has never stripped on me.

BUT, I grew so frustrated at how this oil cap made me feel like a rookie mechanic that I spent this past weekend installing a full Baxter relocation setup:
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Old 08-29-2020, 08:58 PM #30
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Tuco Ramirez View Post
Replacing the plastic with metal is not a solution. The problem is dildos installing the plastic one incorrectly, they’d prob screw up the metal one somehow too.
I have done multiple oil changes on three 5th gen 4runners as well as a camry, all with the plastic, and never had an issue. Not sure why the brain trusts on this board think switching to metal is going to fix everything and make life all hunky dory.
I bet overtightened metal withstands removal better than overtightened plastic. Maybe not a solution, but certainly an improvement.
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