View Poll Results: Fully armored. Is it worth the trade-off in weight?
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Yes
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25 |
46.30% |
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No
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29 |
53.70% |
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09-09-2020, 11:26 PM
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#16
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I'm not terrible decked out nor would I want to be right now without a regear. I've managed to survive on stock skids but I have a shrockworks rear bumper, 295s, hidden winch mount. I think I'm bordering on needing a regear pretty soon since I find myself cruising everywhere in 4th since 5th is pretty much useless.
Another thing to think about is you'll need to get some stiffer rate springs front and rear if you're planning on adding front and rear bumpers.
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09-09-2020, 11:28 PM
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#17
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Banned
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Join Date: Mar 2018
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rochmpr
Believe it or not, in my old 4Runnet, I had gotten as good as 17 mpg on the highway to a little as 12 mpg. My Runner was heavy unloaded, let alone loaded to wheel. That was also with 4.56 gears on the 315's. So it is totally worth it.
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Quote:
Originally Posted by comtn4x4
That's where the re gear comes in. 4:56's or 4:88's real shining point is off road, you'll just roll right over your obstacles. It'll be so much more enjoyable to drive
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Well I was thinking I would prob go 34 on my next set since I've cut everything out anyways....
Guess it good to go with a regear... Just another few grand why not...
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09-09-2020, 11:31 PM
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#18
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Banned
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Quote:
Originally Posted by srsrogerissrs
I'm not terrible decked out nor would I want to be right now without a regear. I've managed to survive on stock skids but I have a shrockworks rear bumper, 295s, hidden winch mount. I think I'm bordering on needing a regear pretty soon since I find myself cruising everywhere in 4th since 5th is pretty much useless.
Another thing to think about is you'll need to get some stiffer rate springs front and rear if you're planning on adding front and rear bumpers.
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Sounds like there is really no way around it then. Re gear is unavoidable on these trucks if you want to have fun.
Yeah I'm aware of this. Part of the reason I chose dobisons from the start.
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09-09-2020, 11:38 PM
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#19
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Join Date: Oct 2019
Posts: 82
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I remember reading an article on here about the added weight vs mpg. I believe, and don’t take my word for it, but for every 100lbs added its only .1 mpg loss, so 1,000lbs of armor only equates to 1mpg loss...again if someone could find that info that would be cool. if anything I would be more worried about long term drivetrain/engine stress on the added weight but we cant really measure that
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09-09-2020, 11:39 PM
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#20
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Join Date: Nov 2016
Location: Denver
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Mutant138
Sounds like there is really no way around it then. Re gear is unavoidable on these trucks if you want to have fun.
Yeah I'm aware of this. Part of the reason I chose dobisons from the start.
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Yah, I thought I was pretty content without a regear with 285s.... then I went to 295s.
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09-09-2020, 11:58 PM
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#21
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Banned
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Join Date: Mar 2018
Location: Arizona
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Real Name: Tobias Fünke
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Banned
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Someone hold me. This is a dark day for my wallet.
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09-10-2020, 10:53 AM
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#22
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Senior Member
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Join Date: Feb 2013
Location: East Bay
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Real Name: Sparky
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My 80 series is fully armored and it's a ponderous fuel wasting pig. Yes, you will have to upgrade the springs. Your suspension will also wear twice as fast. Fuel economy is worthless. On road performance is nonexistent.
Have you considered making a Jeep into a buggy that is barely road legal?
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09-10-2020, 11:20 AM
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#23
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Senior Member
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My truck has 37's, full steel armor, and regear to 4.88s. I've got no regrets with it's onroad performance, I can daily drive it. Driven it half way across the country, completed the Rubicon trail with no body damage, and drove it back to work the next morning.
If you want more offroad perfomance the weight trade-off is worth it.
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09-10-2020, 11:42 AM
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#24
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Join Date: Dec 2013
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My rig is fully armored and heavy. Hefty aluminum front (although may change to a Lil B's full steel hybrid soon) and 4x4 Labs in the rear. RCI aluminum skids minus the fuel tank. Running 285 C's. I have a flat platform in the rear and keep a fridge back there pretty much all the time. No roof rack but run LFD crossbars and an awning. Dual batteries up front and haven't put my winch back in. Currently I think it drives fine. I avg about 15-16mpg combined. On a recent trip from AL to PA doing highway I was getting about 17 mpg. I'm not top heavy so handling feels good and braking is fine with new oem pads and rotors. TBH I think the mpgs are great given how much weight I have. I plan on going to 34's and re-gearing sometime in the future.
Yes I do think it's a slippery slope and once you go rear bumper, especially 4x4 Labs, there's really no point in weight savings. I think if I look back and think my optimal setup between off-roader and on road daily driver it would probably be when I had the C4 lo-pro bumper and 275's. I was getting 18-19 mpg at that time and still took it on some good trails. Adding a rear bumper with swing outs really adds a lot of weight and at least 2-3 more steps when wanting to open the rear hatch. A single half-swing bumper is probably the easiest to deal with. I guess it really boils down to how important you think carry a full size spare is on the back instead of underneath and how many jerry cans of gas/water you need. I'd probably recommend getting a full front bumper & winch first and then the rear bumper when you need it. I've had more issues with approach angle than departure angle but still rubbed the hitch and rear bumper cover a few times.
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09-10-2020, 11:53 AM
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#25
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Senior Member
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Quote:
Originally Posted by sn_85
My rig is fully armored and heavy. Hefty aluminum front (although may change to a Lil B's full steel hybrid soon) and 4x4 Labs in the rear. RCI aluminum skids minus the fuel tank. Running 285 C's. I have a flat platform in the rear and keep a fridge back there pretty much all the time. No roof rack but run LFD crossbars and an awning. Dual batteries up front and haven't put my winch back in. Currently I think it drives fine. I avg about 15-16mpg combined. On a recent trip from AL to PA doing highway I was getting about 17 mpg. I'm not top heavy so handling feels good and braking is fine with new oem pads and rotors. TBH I think the mpgs are great given how much weight I have. I plan on going to 34's and re-gearing sometime in the future.
Yes I do think it's a slippery slope and once you go rear bumper, especially 4x4 Labs, there's really no point in weight savings. I think if I look back and think my optimal setup between off-roader and on road daily driver it would probably be when I had the C4 lo-pro bumper and 275's. I was getting 18-19 mpg at that time and still took it on some good trails. Adding a rear bumper with swing outs really adds a lot of weight and at least 2-3 more steps when wanting to open the rear hatch. A single half-swing bumper is probably the easiest to deal with. I guess it really boils down to how important you think carry a full size spare is on the back instead of underneath and how many jerry cans of gas/water you need. I'd probably recommend getting a full front bumper & winch first and then the rear bumper when you need it. I've had more issues with approach angle than departure angle but still rubbed the hitch and rear bumper cover a few times.
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I'd argue that the approach angle is just a design flaw of the platform that was only really addressed well with the FJ Cruiser... sort of.
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09-10-2020, 12:17 PM
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#26
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Join Date: Nov 2019
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Real Name: Terry
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What you do / Where is the Weight / Correct Suspension = Compromise
My thoughts on the build:
What you do – roads, fire trails, light off roading obviously don’t require hundreds of pounds of armor.
But if you are tearing up the underside, you need armor.
The other option is don’t drive there or break stuff.
Where is the weight?
Roof racks & tents can cause issues.
But you can’t get weight much lower than armor.
I had only been thinking up & down.
I recently went to CAT scales and was surprised with my axle weights.
3000 lbs on front axle
2640 on rear axle
Arguably a rear bumper might actually help me with weight distribution, but I don't really need one.
Spare underneath, prefer day trips or 1-night, don't need to carry fuel.
Spare and hitch take the departure beating mostly.
I guess if I tear something off I'll start looking at rear bumpers.
Suspension:
I started with Tires - to get off road.
Then sliders and skid plates – to get further off road.
Then hybrid bumper, winch & recovery gear – for safety/recovery.
At this point I was heavy and dragging the belly – tearing up the skid plates and rear links.
Once I finally committed to a suspension I’m way higher and drag so much less.
But now I keep thinking about harder trails…
Optimist or Pessimist?
A loaded 4Runner is a compromise.
Not the best on the Road.
Not the best on the Rocks.
Not the best Towing, Hauling, Camping, …. but capable of doing it all.
If you want to do one thing on the list there is always a better option.
If you want to do it all… not really.
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09-10-2020, 02:43 PM
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#27
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Mutant138
Well I was thinking I would prob go 34 on my next set since I've cut everything out anyways....
Guess it good to go with a regear... Just another few grand why not...
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You only live once. Build it to be as capable as you want and know it's capabilities and plan and pack accordingly. Also, know where all the gas stations are as well.
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09-10-2020, 04:14 PM
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#28
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Junior Member
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Join Date: Aug 2017
Location: ATX
Posts: 25
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First, I made peace with what a Toyota is a while ago. It’s a highly reliable underpowered rig that’s reasonably capable.
On the 4R, It’s on 285s with stock skids and a full roof rack. Probably won’t get more but it won’t see any trails that would need heavier skids or bumpers because we have an FJ.
The FJ is what we drive when things get spicier and it makes sense for it to be armored. I’ve been more focused on where that weight sits (keep it off the roof) and how the vehicle manages that weight (the correct suspension). Doing that, it’s still a fun vehicle to drive. I get 16-17mpg with 315s but I drive like a granny. If you are going to push the 4R, armor it and do it with less worries about tearing something up.
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09-10-2020, 06:07 PM
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#29
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Banned
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Join Date: Mar 2018
Location: Arizona
Posts: 1,612
Real Name: Tobias Fünke
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Banned
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Quote:
Originally Posted by LandCruiser
My 80 series is fully armored and it's a ponderous fuel wasting pig. Yes, you will have to upgrade the springs. Your suspension will also wear twice as fast. Fuel economy is worthless. On road performance is nonexistent.
Have you considered making a Jeep into a buggy that is barely road legal?
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I have never considered a jeep. I don't need that kind of drama in my life.
Quote:
Originally Posted by Inv4drZm
My truck has 37's, full steel armor, and regear to 4.88s. I've got no regrets with it's onroad performance, I can daily drive it. Driven it half way across the country, completed the Rubicon trail with no body damage, and drove it back to work the next morning.
If you want more offroad perfomance the weight trade-off is worth it.
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I think it really is as simple as that tbh. Just gotta pay to play.
Quote:
Originally Posted by sn_85
My rig is fully armored and heavy. Hefty aluminum front (although may change to a Lil B's full steel hybrid soon) and 4x4 Labs in the rear. RCI aluminum skids minus the fuel tank. Running 285 C's. I have a flat platform in the rear and keep a fridge back there pretty much all the time. No roof rack but run LFD crossbars and an awning. Dual batteries up front and haven't put my winch back in. Currently I think it drives fine. I avg about 15-16mpg combined. On a recent trip from AL to PA doing highway I was getting about 17 mpg. I'm not top heavy so handling feels good and braking is fine with new oem pads and rotors. TBH I think the mpgs are great given how much weight I have. I plan on going to 34's and re-gearing sometime in the future.
Yes I do think it's a slippery slope and once you go rear bumper, especially 4x4 Labs, there's really no point in weight savings. I think if I look back and think my optimal setup between off-roader and on road daily driver it would probably be when I had the C4 lo-pro bumper and 275's. I was getting 18-19 mpg at that time and still took it on some good trails. Adding a rear bumper with swing outs really adds a lot of weight and at least 2-3 more steps when wanting to open the rear hatch. A single half-swing bumper is probably the easiest to deal with. I guess it really boils down to how important you think carry a full size spare is on the back instead of underneath and how many jerry cans of gas/water you need. I'd probably recommend getting a full front bumper & winch first and then the rear bumper when you need it. I've had more issues with approach angle than departure angle but still rubbed the hitch and rear bumper cover a few times.
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Those rear bumpers are all so heavy. I'm prob going to try a few other fabrication shops and see if someone will entertain my hybrid bumper design. If not I'll just wait till I finish my carport to garage conversion, buy a welder and a tube bender, and do it myself.
I would say for me it's 50/50 between front and rear damage. Ripped the rear bumper cover off a few times. Bent in the tub in the rear. Replace and tail light bumper mount dangle. Up front i have a slightly bent fender. Front bumper cover is half held on with zip ties. Even the upper grill has been plastic welded and zipped back up. I don't know for the life of me how my front valance is still attached it's a Christmas miracle.
Quote:
Originally Posted by Unretired
My thoughts on the build:
What you do – roads, fire trails, light off roading obviously don’t require hundreds of pounds of armor.
But if you are tearing up the underside, you need armor.
The other option is don’t drive there or break stuff.
Where is the weight?
Roof racks & tents can cause issues.
But you can’t get weight much lower than armor.
I had only been thinking up & down.
I recently went to CAT scales and was surprised with my axle weights.
3000 lbs on front axle
2640 on rear axle
Arguably a rear bumper might actually help me with weight distribution, but I don't really need one.
Spare underneath, prefer day trips or 1-night, don't need to carry fuel.
Spare and hitch take the departure beating mostly.
I guess if I tear something off I'll start looking at rear bumpers.
Suspension:
I started with Tires - to get off road.
Then sliders and skid plates – to get further off road.
Then hybrid bumper, winch & recovery gear – for safety/recovery.
At this point I was heavy and dragging the belly – tearing up the skid plates and rear links.
Once I finally committed to a suspension I’m way higher and drag so much less.
But now I keep thinking about harder trails…
Optimist or Pessimist?
A loaded 4Runner is a compromise.
Not the best on the Road.
Not the best on the Rocks.
Not the best Towing, Hauling, Camping, …. but capable of doing it all.
If you want to do one thing on the list there is always a better option.
If you want to do it all… not really.
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The 4runner as it is stock is a compromise between road and off. Would have been nice if they just had more substantial bumpers from the factory. These flimsy designs don't do shit other then direct airflow and look "pretty". I think at the end of the day I'm just a little too aggressive for the truck in stock form. Too many trails out here too ha.
Quote:
Originally Posted by rochmpr
You only live once. Build it to be as capable as you want and know it's capabilities and plan and pack accordingly. Also, know where all the gas stations are as well.
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YOLO. I'm finna yeet this wallet bro. Straight savage.
Jk lmfao some people don't beat their kids enough.
But yeah i'm pretty much going to have to make peace with it and get it over with.
Quote:
Originally Posted by Tamu8104
If you are going to push the 4R, armor it and do it with less worries about tearing something up.
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Well said. Suppose the question is regear first and get it over with or armor up and live with it and see how i feel about regearing after.
Several people have said to put my pedal commander back in. I took it off a while before putting all the armor in.
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09-10-2020, 07:16 PM
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#30
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Member
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Join Date: Aug 2016
Location: Memphis, TN
Posts: 357
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Mutant138
Well said. Suppose the question is regear first and get it over with or armor up and live with it and see how i feel about regearing after.
Several people have said to put my pedal commander back in. I took it off a while before putting all the armor in.
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I would say regear 1st honestly. This is something (if you are anything like me) you will go back and forth about forever even after you put the weight to your 4R. If you pull the trigger on the regear first while the money stash is a little bigger, you will be better off, because you know you will armor up no matter what (or at least that what I did). This philosophy always works for me when I have a few things I am looking at doing. I go ahead and splurge on the questionable mod, because I know in my mind I will make the other mods happen one way or the other. I say up the tire size to 34, go 4.88 and load it down!
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