09-09-2020, 09:59 PM
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#1
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Join Date: Nov 2019
Location: Miami
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Join Date: Nov 2019
Location: Miami
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Polishing machine ?
Anyone here with car detailing knowledge/experience ?
I’m looking to buy a polishing tool. Not looking to break the bank but I want to get something decent. Currently looking at the Chemical Guys bundle with Torq polisher for $160(Amazon). Harbor freight also has a $50 polisher. Not sure how reliable that is although I’ve had good luck with their tools in the past.
Any suggestions would be greatly appreciated. Thank you !
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09-10-2020, 12:38 AM
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#2
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Senior Member
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Join Date: Feb 2016
Location: phoenix
Posts: 2,290
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griots garage dual action. DONT get a rotary polisher if youre just starting out. even with a rotary you need a DA to finish out the polishing anyways or else you'll have buffer marks. a DA and the right compounds will work for you. look up shinesupply he posts how to videos and has a full product line.
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2016 TE : Grocery Getter, 34/10.5R17 Toyo at3, Prinsu Rack, King Coilovers, DuroBumps, ToyTec HD 2.0 springs, King shocks, King hydro bumps, Total Chaos mounts, DirtKing Fabrication UCA, VIVID RACING Tune, URD Y pipe, RCI skids, Marlin Crawler gussets, DRKDSS everything
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09-10-2020, 12:52 AM
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#3
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Join Date: Sep 2016
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Chemical Guys stuff is a lot of hype so watch out there. I like their clear interior cleaner with the uv protection and that it's easy to find.
Also I've heard the torq doesn't actually have a lot of torque, but then again it might help prevent messing up your paint.
Read up first and don't impulse buy it
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09-10-2020, 02:07 AM
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#4
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Junior Member
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Join Date: Aug 2020
Location: Des Moines
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Quote:
Originally Posted by honda250xtitan
griots garage dual action. DONT get a rotary polisher if youre just starting out. even with a rotary you need a DA to finish out the polishing anyways or else you'll have buffer marks. a DA and the right compounds will work for you. look up shinesupply he posts how to videos and has a full product line.
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I second Honda guy above. Griot's will get you to where you want to go at a decent price point.
All paint is different and there are some industry standards to compounds and polishes (Meguiars 105/205), but I've also really liked Griot's BOSS system compounds a polishes as well.
Either way, a good paint correction starts with a good wash, chemical decontamination (CarPro Iron X AND Tar X or other similar product(s)), mechanical decontamination (I prefer clay bar over something like a nanoskin), then compound (with an appropriate pad), IPA wipedown [(or something like CarPro Eraser) probably an overkill step], polish (with an appropriate pad), another IPA wipedown (required step), and then protection (paint protection film, then either ceramic coating or sealant/waxes).
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09-10-2020, 08:45 AM
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#5
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Join Date: Jun 2014
Location: Denver, CO
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Before I got into 4Runners, I had a Mini Cooper and was obsessed with keeping it spotless. The tool of the trade for polishing was a Porter Cable Random Orbital Polisher. They have a few models, but make sure you buy one that's Random Orbital and variable speed. They also make a sander that appears to be exactly the same tool, though doesn't come with the polisher pad.
For me, if I had an itch to keep the 4Runner detailed I would go with a ceramic coating for the simplicity of it.
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09-10-2020, 08:58 AM
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#6
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Join Date: Jun 2019
Location: NW, Ohio
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Real Name: Jason
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I've heard a lot of people have been happy with the Harbor Freight DA polisher, but the pads that come with it should just be tossed immediately. The primary difference in DA polishers is the amount of time it will take to do the same job. I have a Flex 3401 and absolutely love it. I can do a full 2 stage cut/polish in 4-6 hours. I use the lake country flat 6.5" pads, typically just orange, blue, and white.
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09-10-2020, 09:03 AM
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#7
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Location: South Carolina
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MatthewMateo
Either way, a good paint correction starts with a good wash, chemical decontamination (CarPro Iron X AND Tar X or other similar product(s)), mechanical decontamination (I prefer clay bar over something like a nanoskin), then compound (with an appropriate pad), IPA wipedown [(or something like CarPro Eraser) probably an overkill step], polish (with an appropriate pad), another IPA wipedown (required step), and then protection (paint protection film, then either ceramic coating or sealant/waxes).
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I second this. DON’T half a$$ this. I have a buffer mark on mine because i didn’t know what I was doing and was too lazy to finish the job.
If you’re going to do this don’t go after fancy marketing like chemical guys because they look cool. I mean I use them but not because they look cool. They have tons of how-tos and they sell products for every step.
They have videos on the whole process too. Pads for the cutting, pads for the polishing, pads for the buffering for example.
Don’t just buy a torq and that’s it lol. You gotta buy multiple products.
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09-10-2020, 09:06 AM
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#8
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Join Date: Aug 2017
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I'll concur with the recommendation for Griot's Garage equipment. I actually have two; a 6" DA and a 3" DA. I found that even though it's smaller, the 3" is my preferred unit to use because it's lighter and just as effective. Take your time to learn what the different color pads are capable of when using different products.
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09-10-2020, 09:31 AM
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#9
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Join Date: Jun 2017
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Photogr
Before I got into 4Runners, I had a Mini Cooper and was obsessed with keeping it spotless. The tool of the trade for polishing was a Porter Cable Random Orbital Polisher. They have a few models, but make sure you buy one that's Random Orbital and variable speed. They also make a sander that appears to be exactly the same tool, though doesn't come with the polisher pad.
For me, if I had an itch to keep the 4Runner detailed I would go with a ceramic coating for the simplicity of it.
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This guy knows what’s up. The PC is the way to go, esp if you are new to detailing.
When it comes to waxes and polishes, it’s like vehicles....everyone has their opinion. The Autopia forums are a good source of info as is AutoGeek’s website.
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09-10-2020, 11:41 AM
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#10
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Join Date: Sep 2017
Location: BATON ROUGE, LA
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I have owned the harbor freight polisher for about 6 years. It gets the job done. It can be used with other pads, but I have found the current pads to be better than the old ones.
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09-10-2020, 01:04 PM
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#12
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Join Date: Aug 2018
Location: Indiana
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I have the Torq one and its alright. Gets the job done but not excellent. I don't like how it has an on/off switch on the rear and not a trigger, but that's preference. It's also easy to change the speeds on accident.
At work we have a Flex and that's a lot better, but price is higher.
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09-10-2020, 03:35 PM
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#13
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I love his products, and they all smell fantastic. it's the small things in life lol. Your #1 Source for Quality Detailing Supplies – SHINE SUPPLY
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2016 TE : Grocery Getter, 34/10.5R17 Toyo at3, Prinsu Rack, King Coilovers, DuroBumps, ToyTec HD 2.0 springs, King shocks, King hydro bumps, Total Chaos mounts, DirtKing Fabrication UCA, VIVID RACING Tune, URD Y pipe, RCI skids, Marlin Crawler gussets, DRKDSS everything
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09-10-2020, 04:21 PM
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#14
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I have used a Porter-Cable 7424 with Meguiar's velcro backing plate and foam pads since 2000.
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09-10-2020, 04:48 PM
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#15
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Another vote for the Griot's. I got mine as a gift years ago and it's been great! I'd like to get a foam cannon one if these days, but they can be $$$. It looks awesome when the foam is sticking to a car like meringue.
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