10mm socket is correct. I had no issues accessing with my dewalt impact drill. Definitely used a small ratchet wrench as well.
If you find the post let me know, I'll search for it too...
I bet it would fit with a little tinkering. The only real differences that I can see (without having pulled off the a-pillar cover on the taco) is that the angle of the pillar is a bit steeper between the dash and roof, and the pillar is slightly shorter. I suspect that neither of these would cause an issue with Jason's mount. Just need the right taco handle.
Hey Smeerun,
The easiest way is to contact
@Jasontamu
Thanks for the good idea, I ordered the speakers and will install them next week. They are blown in my truck and plug and play is the easiest way to replace them. Sounds like they sound great too.
Hey Smeerun,
The easiest way is to contact
@Jasontamu
I'll reach out to him
Quote:
Originally Posted by LandCruiser
Thanks for the good idea, I ordered the speakers and will install them next week. They are blown in my truck and plug and play is the easiest way to replace them. Sounds like they sound great too.
Hell yeah man, like I said... I was really impressed with these little tweeters. The Toyota paper cones got nothing on them.
You can pop this part of your dash out pretty easily to access the switches and blanks
Challenge was to fit this switch inside this blank slot somehow
PN: 55539-58060
Started by cutting off the excess just beneath the grab clips
Next I had to start getting the insides out
Using the three M's of drilling in plastic: Mask, Measure, Mark... THEN drill...
I slowly advanced in bit sizes until I was at about 5/8" ID (this was specific for the switch I had)
At this point I used various pliers, snip tools and chisels to get the extra plastic out... it took a while and I don't think I capture a pic of it gutted
There we go... except I wasn't a fan of the On/Off plate...
During this mod I wanted to move the power inverter over to the left but toyota made it difficult for whatever reason (probably to keep it simple for the assembly line folks)
Note the height of the protruding plastic on the left and the double slots in the dash that don't match up to this switch
Same problem on the right side...
This is easily solved using some snipping pliers and/or razor blade to shave down the plastic
Perfect! Room for another switch down the line...
I also went ahead and swapped out my shitting HID's for some Hella 2.0 H9's... really easy mod that is well documented across the internet.
Left = H11, Right = H9
The difference in tabs is very very slight, I only modified the top and lower left tabs but trimming with some snips
The other thing you have to do is remove the top guide rail, this is also easily done with some snips
Look at this photo and see if this location will work for you.
I moved mine there on my 2014. Same configuration as the one it came out of.
It will free up both of the bottom slots!
Look at this photo and see if this location will work for you.
I moved mine there on my 2014. Same configuration as the one it came out of.
It will free up both of the bottom slots!
Ohh man. I'm going to move my power inverter button up top and the windshield (deicer?) button down below above the hood release. Good stuff man, looks clean!
Alright, I didn't take too many pictures during this process because quite frankly I was pulling my hair out trying to figure everything out.
Yes, Cartrim has a guide on installing the mirrors, the motors and the sequential blinkers but I could not find one cohesive guide that showed a step-by-step of installing all three of these mods together.
- Set aside like 5 hours if you're going to do these mirror mods at the same time
- You'll need to pull the entire mirror off the door which means taking off the drivers and passenger side interior door panels
- There was no documentation on how/where to run the passenger motor wires so I opted to run them up the drivers a-pillar, under the headliner above the windshield and down the passenger a-pillar (clean and invisible)
- Do NOT follow the advice of simple pressing the mirrors on from the front as you likely will A) not snap all 4 clips in place and/or B) crack the mirror (I ordered a replacement)
Other than that, here is some pics:
Started with the passenger side, going through the steps to tear it a part
If you want to ensure that you do NOT crack your mirror and that you get all FOUR clips locked in, this is how I advise you to install the mirror:
You'll have to remove the screws holding the mirror adjustment motor and then press it onto the back of the mirrors clips (put something soft underneath the mirror)
This is how I tapped the blinker wires for the mirror LEDs
Like I said, don't try to press the mirror on from the front like most videos do... I doubt that you're securing all 4 clips and, well.. you might crack it like I did on my passenger side. Luckily I was able to get a replacement during the Black Friday sale so it was only $30 for another set.
Here is a short clip demonstrating the sequential lights and motor. FYI, I decided to NOT wire these up to fold when I unlock/lock and just do it manually when I get in/out of the car.
The one thing I noted is that it seems like the drivers side motor closes about 1 second slower than the passenger side. Apparently I am not the only one who has noted this. Not really an issue for me but I wonder why that is...
Overall, I am very happy with the end result. The turn signals in the mirrors are AWESOME, the broader view from these mirrors is fantastic and I like the blue tint at night for glare. I don't find the blue to diminish my visibility at night either. The smoked side blinkers are slick and I like being able to fold the mirrors in when I I'm in a parking lot.
Nice and clean looking... except for my dirty mat...
The plan is to mount a maglite and a few other things down here but for now I mounted my handy Leatherman multitool.
I drove it around this evening and MAN does it make a difference. I should have bought these before we drove 3000 miles across the US god damnit! I feel like my legs are actually supported, the seat is real comfy all of a sudden and my low back is relieved. I think I'll order a set of blocks for the passenger seat too.
Nice and clean looking... except for my dirty mat...
The plan is to mount a maglite and a few other things down here but for now I mounted my handy Leatherman multitool.
I drove it around this evening and MAN does it make a difference. I should have bought these before we drove 3000 miles across the US god damnit! I feel like my legs are actually supported, the seat is real comfy all of a sudden and my low back is relieved. I think I'll order a set of blocks for the passenger seat too.
10 out of 10, would recommend.
~smee
I’m on the fence about trying these out. I’m only 5’8” so I’m not sure if it’ll make a huge difference for me. Did the seat adjustment not raise them high enough for you?
I’m on the fence about trying these out. I’m only 5’8” so I’m not sure if it’ll make a huge difference for me. Did the seat adjustment not raise them high enough for you?
I am 5'7" and there is a very noticeable difference for me. The electronic seat adjustments are great but just not enough to give me the right amount of support, it's especially noticeable during long drives. I was really surprised how much of a difference the seat jackers made. But then again, everyone's body is a little different so
Part numbers:
Tacoma PN: 86960-04010-B1
Corolla PN: 86960-33010-B1
The last two letter/digits in the PN are the Toyota Color Codes:
A0 = White
C0=Black
G0=Dark Green
B0=Silver
J1=Blue Mica
D0=Red
E0=Beige
H0=Turquoise
J0=Dark Blue
B1=Gray
Just to confirm did your shark fin hole look like this?
And it fit without issues? Or did you have to modify it in some way? Is it not a direct fit and required the silicone not to leak? Not to worried about the actual connection.
I like them. 
Linear Mode
