09-30-2020, 09:56 PM
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#1
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Location: Atlanta, GA
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Window lock stuck after battery change...please read.
Hey there guys. Before you leap to conclusions and send me links to resetting automatic window close settings or 'normalizing' the windows after a battery change, please read the post first. Thanks. I've searched the forum for my specific issues but haven't found a solution.
So, changed the starting battery in my 2017 TRD Off Road. Lost automatic window opening/closing on the rear gate window, driver's side window and sunroof. All reset now and working well.
What is NOT working is that I now cannot operate any windows other than the driver's side front window from the driver's door controls. However, each window is working if you try to open it from the switch on it's door. So, if I want to open the passenger front window, I can do so from the front passenger door, but not from the driver's door control. Effectively, I cannot open any window other than front driver's side window from the front driver's side controls.
Any suggestions? Could this be a fuse?
Thanks in advance!
b
e
n
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2017 TRD Off Road
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10-01-2020, 12:10 AM
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#2
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Location: Pensacola FL
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Ford Explorer - Jeep Liberty Renegade - GMC Yukon Denali - Hummer H2 - Ford Raptor SVT - BMW M6 - Suzuki Jimny - Mazda Demio - Daihatsu Naked - Will Cypha - Toyota 4Runner TRD ORP - Toyota RAV4 Limited Hybrid
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10-01-2020, 12:28 AM
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#3
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Join Date: Oct 2012
Location: Issaquah WA
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Quote:
Originally Posted by benhalleniii
Any suggestions? Could this be a fuse?
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No, Fuses are a yes or no thing - Either you've blown a fuse or not.
Quote:
Originally Posted by benhalleniii
What is NOT working is that I now cannot operate any windows other than the driver's side front window from the driver's door controls. However, each window is working if you try to open it from the switch on it's door. So, if I want to open the passenger front window, I can do so from the front passenger door, but not from the driver's door control. Effectively, I cannot open any window other than front driver's side window from the front driver's side controls.
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Are you absolutely 100% sure that you did the normalization procedure correctly? Did you go to each individual window switch (not from the master on the drivers side) and do the procedure? Did you hold the window in the up and down position for 3 Mississippi's before you let go?
Just checking - but the problem you describe is the exact symptoms of windows that need to be normalized.
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06-23-2021, 06:27 AM
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#4
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Join Date: Jan 2021
Location: Dubai
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Quote:
Originally Posted by benhalleniii
Hey there guys. Before you leap to conclusions and send me links to resetting automatic window close settings or 'normalizing' the windows after a battery change, please read the post first. Thanks. I've searched the forum for my specific issues but haven't found a solution.
So, changed the starting battery in my 2017 TRD Off Road. Lost automatic window opening/closing on the rear gate window, driver's side window and sunroof. All reset now and working well.
What is NOT working is that I now cannot operate any windows other than the driver's side front window from the driver's door controls. However, each window is working if you try to open it from the switch on it's door. So, if I want to open the passenger front window, I can do so from the front passenger door, but not from the driver's door control. Effectively, I cannot open any window other than front driver's side window from the front driver's side controls.
Any suggestions? Could this be a fuse?
Thanks in advance!
b
e
n
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Hi There,
Did you manage to resolve this as iam having the exact same problem with my front passenger window.
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06-23-2021, 11:01 AM
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#5
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Join Date: Sep 2020
Location: Utah
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Quote:
Originally Posted by AAJ02960
Hi There,
Did you manage to resolve this as iam having the exact same problem with my front passenger window.
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If it is a single window, the problem is usually the switch.
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06-23-2021, 06:33 PM
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#6
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Each window must be rolled all the way down and all the way back up using its individual switch, once this is done each window should work from the driver side master switch.
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08-11-2021, 10:30 PM
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#8
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Kinda weird, today my battery seemed to fail. I didn't leave the lights on or anything, just had the a/c fan running with the motor off.
AAA jumped it, after which the front passenger (only) window would not work via the driver side controls. It works with it's own switch and the other windows also work with the driver controls.
I'm going to try that protocol mentioned above, is that it as far as the "normalizing" ?
Also strangely the clock went back 4 hours somewhere along the way, well that is easy enough to fix.
So it sounds like this is a known and not uncommon thing.
?
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08-12-2021, 01:36 PM
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#9
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My guess is its time to replace the battery.
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2014 4Runner Limited Barcelona Red, RCI gas tank skid plate, 275/70/17 BFG KO2 all terrains on SR5 wheels for off road use stock 20s for highway
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08-12-2021, 09:55 PM
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#10
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 03_4x4Runner
My guess is its time to replace the battery.
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Yup I ordered one of those Odyssey 34R with height adjustment thing.
Also ordered the GM diode doo-jobby.
I'm going to look at this again after I put in the new battery tomorrow.
In other news, the front passenger window no longer works even with its own switch . . .
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08-12-2021, 11:44 PM
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#11
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Quote:
Originally Posted by zzdocxx
Yup I ordered one of those Odyssey 34R with height adjustment thing.
Also ordered the GM diode doo-jobby.
I'm going to look at this again after I put in the new battery tomorrow.
In other news, the front passenger window no longer works even with its own switch . . .
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I am going to replace my Odyssey 34R soon because of age with a new Odyssey. Odyssey now recommends a 24F for the 4runner. It is the same width and length but is 1 inch taller so no spacer is needed.
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08-13-2021, 05:50 PM
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#12
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 03_4x4Runner
I am going to replace my Odyssey 34R soon because of age with a new Odyssey. Odyssey now recommends a 24F for the 4runner. It is the same width and length but is 1 inch taller so no spacer is needed.
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Yeah my ODX 34R came in today and is already paid for. I was looking for the difference in spec in those two but didn't find it right off the bat.
Update on my window situation: front passenger window started working again on its own, only from its own switch though.
So I did the normalizing thing, this time I held the button for a good long 1-2-3 both up and down and it works normally again, yay !
Gonna put the new battery in this afternoon.
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08-14-2021, 12:59 PM
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#13
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Update - put the new battery in yesterday afternoon and for whatever reason all the windows have continued working normally . . .
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08-14-2021, 01:05 PM
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#14
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 03_4x4Runner
I am going to replace my Odyssey 34R soon because of age with a new Odyssey. Odyssey now recommends a 24F for the 4runner. It is the same width and length but is 1 inch taller so no spacer is needed.
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Yeah seems like the 24F might have been a better choice for me but I'm sure the 34R will work out fine this time around.
Here are the specs for both batteries in case anyone is interested. Note the difference in "reserve capacity minutes" 135 minutes for the 34R vs. 160 minutes for the 24F.
Spec for 34R:
Specifications
Voltage
12
Pulse (5 second) Hot Cranking Amps (PHCA)
1500
Cold Cranking Amps (CCA)
850
HCA
1250
MCA
1050
20Hr Nominal Capacity (Ah)
68
10Hr Nominal Capacity (Ah)
62
Reserve Capacity Minutes
135
Spec for 24F:
Voltage
12
Pulse (5 second) Hot Cranking Amps (PHCA)
1500
Cold Cranking Amps (CCA)
840
HCA
1200
MCA
1000
20Hr Nominal Capacity (Ah)
76
10Hr Nominal Capacity (Ah)
73
Reserve Capacity Minutes
160
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2017 TRD Off Road
Last edited by zzdocxx; 08-14-2021 at 01:07 PM.
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08-14-2021, 02:04 PM
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#15
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Join Date: Aug 2003
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Quote:
Originally Posted by zzdocxx
Yeah seems like the 24F might have been a better choice for me but I'm sure the 34R will work out fine this time around.
Here are the specs for both batteries in case anyone is interested. Note the difference in "reserve capacity minutes" 135 minutes for the 34R vs. 160 minutes for the 24F.
Spec for 34R:
Specifications
Voltage
12
Pulse (5 second) Hot Cranking Amps (PHCA)
1500
Cold Cranking Amps (CCA)
850
HCA
1250
MCA
1050
20Hr Nominal Capacity (Ah)
68
10Hr Nominal Capacity (Ah)
62
Reserve Capacity Minutes
135
Spec for 24F:
Voltage
12
Pulse (5 second) Hot Cranking Amps (PHCA)
1500
Cold Cranking Amps (CCA)
840
HCA
1200
MCA
1000
20Hr Nominal Capacity (Ah)
76
10Hr Nominal Capacity (Ah)
73
Reserve Capacity Minutes
160
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Yes the 34r is a great battery. Mine is still going strong after 4 years with no diode mod. I am only going to put in a new because of age. This is my only vehicle and I off road a lot. I just want to start fresh. I am probably going to keep this 4runner another 3 years and no sense waiting till it dies. It will be an odyssey 24F unless only 34r are available.
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