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Old 11-13-2020, 02:04 PM #31
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Has OP outed the shop yet? Might be doing other members a solid by naming the shop.
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Old 11-13-2020, 07:33 PM #32
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Update: Found a solid Toyota dealer who was super chill and was willing to fix this mess. Shocking the hardware actually does go with the UCA’s. Would you look at that! Rear springs will be fixed tomorrow.
And I will make sure everything is torqued properly myself.



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Old 11-13-2020, 11:32 PM #33
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Do yourself a favor and get some needle nose pliers and bend the larger clamp on that brake line so it’s loose. With a lift, you risk stretching that cable (which you can see in your picture).

This is from my self install. Notice the upper guide on the UCA bracket is still intact.

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Old 11-14-2020, 12:06 AM #34
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Quote:
Originally Posted by I4CUTigers View Post
Do yourself a favor and get some needle nose pliers and bend the larger clamp on that brake line so it’s loose. With a lift, you risk stretching that cable (which you can see in your picture).

This is from my self install. Notice the upper guide on the UCA bracket is still intact.

This might be stupid but are you talking about the side of the bracket? Can you draw an arrow to where you're talking about?
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Old 11-14-2020, 01:44 PM #35
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Quote:
Originally Posted by TheJokingExplorer View Post
This might be stupid but are you talking about the side of the bracket? Can you draw an arrow to where you're talking about?
Yes. On the ABS bracket that screws into the UCA, there are two formed clamps that hold the ABS line. The first clamp is smaller in diameter and is on the top of the bracket as the wire leaves the engine bay and the second is a larger diameter and it holds the ABS line to the side of the UCA as it travels down to the brake assembly. The second, larger one, is very tight post lift, but can be opened up to let that part of the line out and give it more slack for any potential increase separation from articulation between the bracket and the brake assembly.

If you look at the picture I posted, look to the right of the bolt that holds the abs bracket to the UCA. Notice how there is no clamp on that side and the brake line is free to move.
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Old 11-14-2020, 02:02 PM #36
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Quote:
Originally Posted by I4CUTigers View Post
Yes. On the ABS bracket that screws into the UCA, there are two formed clamps that hold the ABS line. The first clamp is smaller in diameter and is on the top of the bracket as the wire leaves the engine bay and the second is a larger diameter and it holds the ABS line to the side of the UCA as it travels down to the brake assembly. The second, larger one, is very tight post lift, but can be opened up to let that part of the line out and give it more slack for any potential increase separation from articulation between the bracket and the brake assembly.

If you look at the picture I posted, look to the right of the bolt that holds the abs bracket to the UCA. Notice how there is no clamp on that side and the brake line is free to move.

Yup. I see what you’re saying now. This seems like a good idea. I will be doing that soon. Thanks


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Old 11-14-2020, 03:21 PM #37
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Quote:
Originally Posted by CSM4runner View Post
My son just moved to Denver and is about to have Toytec install a lift on his Gen 4. He got a quote from another garage but said something just didnt feel right about them. Good luck with the repair. Hopefully the shop makes it right.
RSG off-road, Lakewood, CO, is a great shop
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Old 11-14-2020, 04:12 PM #38
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Anyone know the average life span of JBA bushings if you keep them greased?
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Old 11-14-2020, 04:30 PM #39
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Quote:
Originally Posted by TheJokingExplorer View Post
Anyone know the average life span of JBA bushings if you keep them greased?
I don't know the average, but I'm going on 3 years no issues with a couple shots of grease in each zerk every 10,000 miles!

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Old 11-14-2020, 05:38 PM #40
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That pisses me off, those rear springs are a no brainer. Hell I had 4 months off during the C-lock down, I coulda been doing installs. UCA bolts and washers are a little difficult, but NOTHING to warrant that mess. I've done all the work on both my 4th and 5th gen with the 4th getting a TC dual shock set up with gussets everywhere. I had to hire out the welder, but he just did the glue, I was in his shop mocking everything up and calling the plays. Never worked in a shop before and far from being certified.
People need to quit doing weed and heroin at work and read some damn instructions. Unacceptable.... SMDH
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Old 11-14-2020, 09:52 PM #41
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Dealer was able to fix everything! Seems to be driving just fine. I filed a dispute with Amex and uploaded the documents from Toyota stating the work they did and what they had to fix. Hopefully, that is enough too not have to pay the original shop.
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Old 11-14-2020, 10:04 PM #42
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Quote:
Originally Posted by TheJokingExplorer View Post
Dealer was able to fix everything! Seems to be driving just fine. I filed a dispute with Amex and uploaded the documents from Toyota stating the work they did and what they had to fix. Hopefully, that is enough too not have to pay the original shop.
I hope you get back every penny back. That shop are nothing but a bunch of hacks.
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Old 11-14-2020, 10:42 PM #43
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The saga continues. I noticed where the shock bolts into the lower control arm. I believe Toyota originally has it going from back to front. I think mine are going front to back. Does this matter?
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Old 11-14-2020, 11:29 PM #44
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You're correct, the bolt is factory installed from back to front. The nut should be torqued to spec after vehicle has been lowered to the ground and bounced. The nut cannot be accurately torqued by placing a torque wrench on the head of a reversed bolt with weight on the wheels. Installing the bolt from back to front allows one better access to use a torque wrench on the nut when vehicle has weight on the wheels. It's much easier to accurately use a torque wrench on the nut when the bolt is installed back to front because otherwise, one has to blindly reach around the tire for access to the nut, which would put a lot of stress on the mechanic's shoulder, arm and elbow. There is one way the nut could have been properly torqued. Hand tighten the reversed lower shock bolt, lower vehicle to ground and drive it to an alignment rack and let that mechanic torque the nut while lying on a creeper. I doubt it was done this way; too much risk the alignment guy would forget to torque the nut on a reversed bolt unless perhaps only one guy fixed the missing washers and performed an alignment. But why do it that way when it's easier to see and torque the nut with the bolt installed back to front?

I would look to see if the lower shock bushing is under stress, indicating the bolt was tightened with the vehicle off the ground. Unfortunately, most of the bushing is hidden, so it will be difficult to conclusively determine if the bolt was tightened before the vehicle was lowered to the ground. If I had to make a guess, I suspect the bolt was tightened with the vehicle up on a hoist, which would stress the bushing when the vehicle is lowered to the ground, specifically, the bushing would be "wound up" in one direction with weight on the wheels. This causes the bushing to "overwind" when the wheel assembly rises over a high bump. Does it matter? Does it shorten life of the bushing? The extra torsional stress may eventually shear the hard rubber leading to a squeak between rubber and metal such as I have on a bushing in my 2000 Nissan Maxima. The lower shock mount might displace axially after a long period of time, creating metal to metal contact, but I haven't seen anyone report this.

Last edited by DougR; 11-15-2020 at 07:14 PM.
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Old 11-15-2020, 06:46 PM #45
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 4runnin4mylife View Post
I don't know the average, but I'm going on 3 years no issues with a couple shots of grease in each zerk every 10,000 miles!

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When you grease your bushings do you do it until it pushes grease out? My passenger side grease pushes out after a few shots. Nothing comes out on the drivers side after the recommended 3-5 shots.


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