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Old 11-20-2020, 02:03 AM #31
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You know someone is definitely gonna end up with some custom work by a shady dealer and lazy technician sooner or later.
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Old 11-20-2020, 12:13 PM #32
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Quote:
Originally Posted by EddieV4runnin View Post
You know someone is definitely gonna end up with some custom work by a shady dealer and lazy technician sooner or later.
God i hope that someone isn't me 😂

My runner goes in next friday... They've asked to to empty out my back seats....

It's gonna suck for them tho because I have an amp underneath my back seat driver side lol
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Old 11-20-2020, 12:19 PM #33
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How bad is it to drop the tank?

I remember changing tank straps on XJs like it was a routine thing.
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Old 11-20-2020, 01:15 PM #34
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The Toyota repair manual says to remove the passenger side rear seat to uncover the access panel above the fuel pump. You can use this access from above to release the electrical connector for the fuel pump, then drop the tank from below. This is not a necessary step as the electrical connector is one of the easiest ones to disconnect from below the tank. The vent lines are the pain in the rear as they have weird connectors on them and it has to be done virtually blind.

I recently did this in my garage with no previous experience and did not have to access the rear seat access panel. The electrical connector is easily disconnected from below. As an idiot, the whole job took me 5 hours in a cold garage, on my back, on the floor. A trained Toyota tech, with a hoist and transmission jack, should wrap this up in 2-3 hours easily in my opinion.

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Old 11-20-2020, 04:05 PM #35
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Jeremy556 View Post
I would recommend you take them out (one at a time) and apply anti seize to them, especially in MI. I live in the desert and mine welded themselves in place to the point that I had to break off the threaded inserts in the frame to remove them and had to drill/tap new ones in the frame. It's not as strong as the original mounts, but my skid plate could easily support the tank without any straps.
I think this is good advice.
Also, I took off my skid plate a few months ago and one of the inboard bolts is a real ***** to get in and out. I would make sure they reinstalled it.
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Old 12-18-2020, 04:32 AM #36
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For the recall if we are experiencing no issues should it still be done? I’ve not heard of many having this issue but to have a recall they must have.
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Old 12-18-2020, 08:39 AM #37
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For the recall if we are experiencing no issues should it still be done? I’ve not heard of many having this issue but to have a recall they must have.
I'd also like to hear opinions on this.

I have mine scheduled for early January, and I have 184k on the odometer so part of me thinks it can't hurt to have it replaced anyways...but I'm a little worried about them messing something up.
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Old 01-06-2021, 01:42 PM #38
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Bumping this to see if anyone has any opinions on whether or not to go through with the replacement.
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Old 01-06-2021, 02:46 PM #39
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Getting a new fuel pump for free? Do it.
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Old 01-06-2021, 03:06 PM #40
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I do my own maintenance because I enjoy it and don't trust the JV team assigned by dealers to perform routine functions. That said, my fuel pump will be two years younger than my vehicle. That's a good thing. If the dealer screws something up, they will be required to fix it. I'm not stressing over this.

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Old 01-06-2021, 03:13 PM #41
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Thanks, guys.
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Old 09-19-2023, 12:48 PM #42
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Tank removal and access hatch

So I just had to recheck my connections due to an evap code. Turns out it was the smaller connection to the canister that wasn't clipped in properly and popped off. My wife dropped the tank too far with the jack when helping me and my pump stopped working. Reading about the hatch I pulled my 2nd row to see if the hatch was there. 2011 limited 4runner has the hatch. Luckily the plug just popped off.
I've dropped the tank twice now and the access hatch is nice but not required. The 2nd row seats have 4 bolts in the rear covered by 2 covers that pop off with the seat all the way forward. The front has 1 bolt and 1 nut covered by two plastic covers. I had to make 2 small cuts in the carpet to not have to take out more seats.

If you take off the straps and lower the tank slightly you can barely get an arm up to remove the plug but it is difficult. I had to pull my muffler to get enough room, you could also pull your driveshaft.
The 2 evap connectors (i think they are both evap) are not accessible from the hatch, only the power plug. The big connection is a pinch and pull type that is difficult and you might need to use a screwdriver to release the clips. The smaller one has a clip similar to the fuel lines; the two tabs are pinched and pushed through and released with a pick screwdriver on the other side. Lowering the tank a bit and then taking them off works but again there is not alot of room.
The tank has to be dropped to remove the fuel pump and, in my case, I dropped the tank to have access to replace the rear brake lines and undercoat the bottom and frame.
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Old 09-19-2023, 01:52 PM #43
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Auryan View Post
So I just had to recheck my connections due to an evap code. Turns out it was the smaller connection to the canister that wasn't clipped in properly and popped off. My wife dropped the tank too far with the jack when helping me and my pump stopped working. Reading about the hatch I pulled my 2nd row to see if the hatch was there. 2011 limited 4runner has the hatch. Luckily the plug just popped off.
I've dropped the tank twice now and the access hatch is nice but not required. The 2nd row seats have 4 bolts in the rear covered by 2 covers that pop off with the seat all the way forward. The front has 1 bolt and 1 nut covered by two plastic covers. I had to make 2 small cuts in the carpet to not have to take out more seats.

If you take off the straps and lower the tank slightly you can barely get an arm up to remove the plug but it is difficult. I had to pull my muffler to get enough room, you could also pull your driveshaft.
The 2 evap connectors (i think they are both evap) are not accessible from the hatch, only the power plug. The big connection is a pinch and pull type that is difficult and you might need to use a screwdriver to release the clips. The smaller one has a clip similar to the fuel lines; the two tabs are pinched and pushed through and released with a pick screwdriver on the other side. Lowering the tank a bit and then taking them off works but again there is not alot of room.
The tank has to be dropped to remove the fuel pump and, in my case, I dropped the tank to have access to replace the rear brake lines and undercoat the bottom and frame.
Yes, it's a royal pain. I had to replace the sending unit due to fuel gauge not showing less than 1/4 tank of gas. Disconnecting fuel lines, removing tank shield, dropping tank, replacing fuel pump assembly is not difficult-get the correct fuel pump retainer ring tool first.

What is a major pain, like you said is disconnecting the evap hoses as the clips were invented by Satan himself. There isn't enough slack in the lines when you lower the tank to really work in there and see what part needs to be released. A couple of mirrors and good picks are a must.

When putting the evap lines back, I didn't push the line to the second click point and I smelled gas after filling up. Really have to push hard to get that fill seated click on the large line.
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