11-19-2020, 01:43 PM
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#1
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Chase Light Wiring Options
I recently picked up a set of S2's to run as chase lights on my 2020 ORP, and would like to avoid running the wires along the roof rack and down the gutter between the a-pillar and windshield.
Anyone here successfully able to find a good path down between the rear hatch and either wire 1.) through the cabin along the side trim or 2.) underneath the truck?
Pictures or additional insight would be greatly appreciated!
Thanks.
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11-19-2020, 01:48 PM
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#2
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You can go all the way back and down the hatch, hoping that the wiring never interferes with the hatch closing/opening, since you'll have to run larger gauge wire due to the distance
You can run down the windshield like you said
You can get a marine hull passthrough and run specific wire that's designed to fit it and is waterproof. This would require drilling into the roof and then you'd run the wire down the a-pillars on the inside and through the firewall
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11-19-2020, 02:50 PM
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#3
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Quote:
Originally Posted by llDemonll
You can go all the way back and down the hatch, hoping that the wiring never interferes with the hatch closing/opening, since you'll have to run larger gauge wire due to the distance
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Thanks. I was planning on splicing 14awg wire with wires provided by Baja Designs.
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11-19-2020, 03:55 PM
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#4
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Mil-Spec ETFE Insulated Electric Wire (MIL-W-22759/16) | Pegasus Auto Racing Supplies
milspec wiring is where its at. i run mine down the front. but i'm also getting away with much smaller gauge wiring.
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11-19-2020, 07:19 PM
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#5
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I got curious and looked up the S2 power limits for the Sport and Pro... they are a lot more efficient that I thought.
S2 Sport = 12 watts (~1 amp @ 12v) each
S2 Pro = 24 watts (~2 amps @ 12v) each
You can most certainly run smaller wires, or even tap into an existing circuit provided you have the headroom in the circuit.
I could see myself using 18-20awg for this depending on the length of run. Even 22awg would be acceptable for the Sport.
Last edited by Bumbo; 11-19-2020 at 07:27 PM.
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11-19-2020, 07:26 PM
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#6
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rayofsi
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ETFE aka TEFZEL is what is generally used in professional race cars and F1 racing harnesses. Insulation is thin but if high quality, ideal for making harnesses to managing the loom size.
That said, I usually see TXL wire used for most standard automotive applications, especially for most hobby level installs.
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11-19-2020, 11:03 PM
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#7
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I am planning to run a pair of S2s as chase lights on my truck too. However, I got several premade wiring harnesses from BD because I didn't feel like trying to find the part number for the connectors they use. I'm planning to connect to my SwitchPro using an S2 upfitter harness, two 10' S2 extensions, and an S2 splitter. What kind of rack do you have and how are you attaching your lights? I am waiting until at least February for my Gobi to come in before I can install the lights. I'm planning to grab a couple of universal mounting brackets from Axia Alloys Axia Alloys – Axia Alloys.
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11-21-2020, 02:12 PM
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#8
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Stembot
What kind of rack do you have and how are you attaching your lights?
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I have a Prinsu roof rack – thankfully the rear crossbar offers slots to mount stuff like lights.
But I’m sure you can do something similar with any popular rack brands.
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07-26-2021, 06:51 PM
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#9
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Easiest and cleanest way by far is to go through the weather stripping for the rear hatch. Unsheathe a 2 inch section of the chord to reveal the individual thin gauge power and ground wires. Those wires can be put between the body and the weather-stripping without compromising the seal at all. There is plenty of room between the hatch and the body for chords and any connectors you may have to plug in as well.
All you have to do is run a power wire from the battery up front in to the back of the car, then you can plug in the harness for the chase light in the back with a short harness between the light and the power source and ground.
Can send pictures of my setup if desired.
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07-27-2021, 04:20 PM
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#10
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Greeny
Easiest and cleanest way by far is to go through the weather stripping for the rear hatch. Unsheathe a 2 inch section of the chord to reveal the individual thin gauge power and ground wires. Those wires can be put between the body and the weather-stripping without compromising the seal at all. There is plenty of room between the hatch and the body for chords and any connectors you may have to plug in as well.
All you have to do is run a power wire from the battery up front in to the back of the car, then you can plug in the harness for the chase light in the back with a short harness between the light and the power source and ground.
Can send pictures of my setup if desired.
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Pics!
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Quote:
Originally Posted by RysiuM
I just look at them and say: you have not the absolute slightest idea what you are talking about. This is 4Runner.
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07-27-2021, 11:06 PM
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#11
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Okay got some pics, mines 3rd gen but the exact same thing can be done with a 5th
Chase/camp light

Sheathed chord from light can be squeezed though this gap. Open and close the tailgate slowly while trying to feed the chord in from edge of the tailgate, you'll find the sweet spot where the gap is big enough to pull it in.

My light came with a deutsch connector pigtail, I strapped it to the tailgate hinge just to prevent it from moving around in there. Plenty of space even when closed. The male plug is from the supplied harness which made things super simple.

Heres where I unsheathed the harness where it goes under the weather stripping.

I have power running from the battery up front to this little box behind the passenger wheel well, the ground is a nearby bolt in the body with the paint sanded away. Inside is just a few positive and negative terminals, that's where my harness is getting its power and ground. You don't need the box, a single wire would do fine, just get power to the trunk somehow, and find a ground that fits your harness.
You can also see the other side of the harness going under the carpet to the front of the car.

Harness wasn't long enough to bring to the dash, so it snakes under the carpet and trim to the B pillar, then under passenger seat to the centre console instead

And this one's pretty self explanatory.. switch lol
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07-29-2021, 01:48 AM
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#12
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Quote:
Originally Posted by RysiuM
I just look at them and say: you have not the absolute slightest idea what you are talking about. This is 4Runner.
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'15 Trail Premium, GOBI Stealth, CVT Summit Awning, ARB Safari Snorkel, TRD Pro susp. w/Bilstein 6112 coils & 1" spacer (front) & OME 895 (rear), 285/70/17 BFG KO2, Spidertrax wheel spacers, TRD Pro package (wheels, grill, valences, & skid), full RCI aluminum skids, C4 Fab diff skid, Toytec bump stop extensions, plenty of lights, patches, stickers, and other miscellaneous mods (backup & front camera, accessory meter display, rear window/hatch, bumper cup holders, Wit's End fire extinguisher mount, Ellis Precision TRD shift lever)
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12-15-2022, 11:21 PM
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#13
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Quote:
Originally Posted by frankdux
I have a Prinsu roof rack – thankfully the rear crossbar offers slots to mount stuff like lights.
But I’m sure you can do something similar with any popular rack brands.

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Like the setup it’s exactly what I was thinking. How much clearance do you have from the light to the rear spoiler when open?
Thanks in advance!
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12-16-2022, 02:40 AM
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#14
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Lost in trees
Like the setup it’s exactly what I was thinking. How much clearance do you have from the light to the rear spoiler when open?
Thanks in advance!
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mine are mounted under the rear cross bar (its a 1x1 so shorter then his) and it's perfect.
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12-16-2022, 09:27 PM
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#15
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I used the rubber wire channel from KC Hilites to make a smooth run along the edge of the windshield.
Universal Wire Hider
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