Hello,
I just bought a 2018 4runner TRD off road premium. After the shipper dropped it off I noticed a few problems:

1) low beam headlights don't work
2) brake light is on
3) ABS light is on
3) power steering light is on
4) TPMS light is on
5) from the drive seat I can only control driver window can not control other windows. The other window controls work from their respective door panels
6) Multi terrain select is not available
7) Odomotor, speedometer, and tachometer don't work.
8) ambient temperature sensor does not work
9) Gear of transmission display does not work on the dashboard
10) slip light indicator is on.
11) remote key entry does not work
12) a lot of the fuses will not light up when I try to test them (like Half of the fuse box).
13) car has a rough start and idle. seems like it wants to die on cold starts.


I appreciate your help. I am guessing its the ECU or the wiring. Whats throwing me off is my diagnostic computer can not even connect to give me codes (it turns on when connected to the obd2 but can't read the car). When I opened up the panel I noticed the alarm was disconnected so I am guessing the car was stolen. Any help in diagnosing a wire problem or eco problem would be of help.

Thanks

You accepted it with all those problems? I'd make it the sellers/shippers problem. Why would you even mess with it?

Sounds like it had a bad battery and then shipper jump started it improperly and fried the electronics.

What's the backstory on it?
Flooded? Insurance repo/rebuilt?

It was a stolen vehicle. I bought it from the auction. I should have known better.

Well not necessarily all bad. Afterall it is a Toyota
Lets start simple. How's the battery/charging?
If you can't clear the codes can you leave the battery disconnected for 10-20min and try again?

I had to install a new battery, even though the one they installed was only a few months old. I have disconnected the battery overnight and tried to reread the codes but no success. I will try again.

ouch. good luck

May need to look into Zero Point Calibration

You bought a stolen vehicle, high likely-hood all issues are electrical. Get under the dash and start looking at wiring, or buy a new ECU and see if that fixes anything.

Either way, you bought a car at auction sight-unseen. Should have at least asked for a video of the car running and a view of the dash.

Ouch is right. First, as Jivewalker said, make it the seller's problem if at all possible. If you bought it as-is, then you may be done there.

If you're stuck with it, I'm wondering if you could pull the fuses for all the things that aren't essential to running (lights, AC, ABS, etc.) and see if anything changes as far as the dash lights and rough engine. You could then re-introduce a fuse at a time (after making sure it's good) and look for changes. Maybe someone maliciously slashed or ripped a wire bundle, or did some other damage, creating opens and/or shorts. Also, not sure what you mean by fuses not lighting up. You're pulling them and checking with an ohmmeter?

One thing maybe - the window lock switch could be engaged or bad.

LandCruiser could be right about the ECU. Best wishes.

Even if you bought AS-IS, not the end of the world especially if engine, body, and other components are good. If you're only problem is electrical you can find the issues and fix them with some time. Might just be one thing.

I would start with the headlights low beam not working. Trace it back with a meter.

A broken ground somewhere will cause a lot of those issues. Something as simple as a harness unplugged under the hood will give you some of those lights. Start checking continuity of all circuits. You can get a wiring diagram on here. One of the ECU's may very well be fried, but I'd have to know why before I even went that route.

This is key, I encountered a similar issue recently. My neighbors Camry horn was going off one day and I looked out to see him and his wife (older couple) jumping it. Well the next day I saw him under the hood and went over to see if I could help. Turns out the Camry was screaming for HELP, they had jumped it with reversed polarity, actually melted about one third of the negative terminal on the battery. Apparently they had AAA come by during the day and the driver told them the computer was fried. We got a new battery in and then the fun started, during this I could not get my Scan tool to connect. After replacing the 120 amp alternator fuse and several others, from radio power to throttle power, only then was able to connect and clear codes.

I would start by removing the battery and replacing all the blown fuses.

It's a big cookie so you know the saying...one bite at a time.

Don’t mess with it, send it to the dealer you should be under warranty.

Would warranty cover electrical damage to a truck incurred by it either being stolen or shenanigans that happened after it was recovered?