12-09-2020, 02:23 PM
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#16
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Senior Member
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Join Date: Jun 2004
Location: Bay Area, CA
Posts: 1,409
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Senior Member
Join Date: Jun 2004
Location: Bay Area, CA
Posts: 1,409
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Upper control arms and rear coils
Quote:
Originally Posted by Jetboy
Seems like $5 worth of Rustoleum would solve your problem.
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I’m leaning towards $150 powder coat & new bushings
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12-09-2020, 04:33 PM
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#17
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Senior Member
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Join Date: Mar 2012
Location: Edmonton, AB
Posts: 1,589
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Senior Member
Join Date: Mar 2012
Location: Edmonton, AB
Posts: 1,589
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Jetboy
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Well reasoned, and a lot more info there than I care to argue with....much. Uniballs are indeed a single sheer, as are ball joints. And indeed the weak point is the centre bolt for sure. The Total Chaos arms use a grade 8 9/16" bolt, having a tensile strength somewhere in the neighborhood of 30,000lbs (I run emf rod ends uniballs which are advertised as being even stronger). Probably not much different than what jba uses I'm sure, but either is vastly superior to the stock ball joint pin.
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2012 Magnetic Grey Metalic SR5 w/ upgrade pkg (Canada)
pretty much bone stock
Instagram: ab4runnin
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12-09-2020, 06:16 PM
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#18
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Member
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Join Date: Nov 2020
Posts: 159
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Member
Join Date: Nov 2020
Posts: 159
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Quote:
Originally Posted by daytonaviolet
I have the exact dilemma. To complicate things, I already have the JBA UCA. But another issue I’m having is the color scheme.
Jba’s are red and kings are blue. To me, it does not look good together.
Options:
1. Jba in red
2. Purchase new UCA already blue or black (Total Chaos or Camburg)
3. Powder coat jba to blue ?
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I am all for powder coating high-use metals but couldn’t you just hit it with some brake caliper paint?
If it’s good enough for the heat fluctuation of brake calipers, a pair of non-touched UCA’s should withstand whatever is thrown at them.
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12-09-2020, 06:17 PM
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#19
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Junior Member
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Join Date: Nov 2015
Location: Oahu, hawaii
Posts: 28
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Junior Member
Join Date: Nov 2015
Location: Oahu, hawaii
Posts: 28
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Quote:
Originally Posted by daytonaviolet
I have the exact dilemma. To complicate things, I already have the JBA UCA. But another issue I’m having is the color scheme.
Jba’s are red and kings are blue. To me, it does not look good together.
Options:
1. Jba in red
2. Purchase new UCA already blue or black (Total Chaos or Camburg)
3. Powder coat jba to blue ?
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Looks good! Ya I was wondering if JBA had any other colors
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
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2016 SR5 T4R “Toyholo”
Oahu,Hawaii
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12-09-2020, 11:51 PM
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#20
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Senior Member
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Join Date: Mar 2012
Location: Edmonton, AB
Posts: 1,589
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Senior Member
Join Date: Mar 2012
Location: Edmonton, AB
Posts: 1,589
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Quote:
Originally Posted by daytonaviolet
I’m leaning towards $150 powder coat & new bushings
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Don't waste your money on powder coat. It's going to look like shit in 18 months from all the dirt and debris coming off the tires. We live in northern Alberta, we have snow on the ground for nearly 8 months of the year, and before this year they used calcium chloride spray on the roads. The stuff eats everything. Literally the only rust on my truck is on items that have been powder coated.
Por15 is vastly more durable and comes in a whole host of colours for a fraction of the cost
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2012 Magnetic Grey Metalic SR5 w/ upgrade pkg (Canada)
pretty much bone stock
Instagram: ab4runnin
Last edited by Jono.ful; 12-10-2020 at 12:10 AM.
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12-10-2020, 02:44 AM
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#21
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Senior Member
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Join Date: Jun 2004
Location: Bay Area, CA
Posts: 1,409
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Senior Member
Join Date: Jun 2004
Location: Bay Area, CA
Posts: 1,409
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Upper control arms and rear coils
Quote:
Originally Posted by Jono.ful
Don't waste your money on powder coat. It's going to look like shit in 18 months from all the dirt and debris coming off the tires. We live in northern Alberta, we have snow on the ground for nearly 8 months of the year, and before this year they used calcium chloride spray on the roads. The stuff eats everything. Literally the only rust on my truck is on items that have been powder coated.
Por15 is vastly more durable and comes in a whole host of colours for a fraction of the cost
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Thanks but por15 is directly applied to a clean prepped metal surface. Don’t I need to strip the original powder coat off first for this to work well ?
If that’s the case, might was well pay a shop to sandblast, prep and powder coat. Besides, I’m not good at painting :-)
Also my UCA are powdered coated red from jba. They are about a year old and they still look new. One of benefits of the Bay Area.
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12-10-2020, 04:09 AM
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#22
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Senior Member
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Join Date: Mar 2012
Location: Edmonton, AB
Posts: 1,589
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Senior Member
Join Date: Mar 2012
Location: Edmonton, AB
Posts: 1,589
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Quote:
Originally Posted by daytonaviolet
Thanks but por15 is directly applied to a clean prepped metal surface. Don’t I need to strip the original powder coat off first for this to work well ?
If that’s the case, might was well pay a shop to sandblast, prep and powder coat. Besides, I’m not good at painting :-)
Also my UCA are powdered coated red from jba. They are about a year old and they still look new. One of benefits of the Bay Area.
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No, you can paint directly over rust and paint. Since you're starting with new parts, I'd scuff them up a bit prior to using their etching primer. After that though you're good to go.
Granted you don't get the snow in SF, but the ocean air isn't nice to metal either.
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2012 Magnetic Grey Metalic SR5 w/ upgrade pkg (Canada)
pretty much bone stock
Instagram: ab4runnin
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12-18-2020, 12:46 AM
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#23
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Junior Member
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Join Date: Nov 2015
Location: Oahu, hawaii
Posts: 28
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Junior Member
Join Date: Nov 2015
Location: Oahu, hawaii
Posts: 28
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Thank you again to everyone’s response, so I decided on the UCAs. My next dilemma is the rear coils, I’m guessing 2” coils? I see a lot about dobinsons, what part number would I get? I’m pretty much at stock weight in the rear with no added weight other then some load for camping, but eventually I want to add the rear tire carrier but in the future haha
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2016 SR5 T4R “Toyholo”
Oahu,Hawaii
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12-18-2020, 01:10 AM
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#24
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Member
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Join Date: Feb 2019
Location: van
Posts: 39
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Member
Join Date: Feb 2019
Location: van
Posts: 39
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I agree with what jetboy said. I could not justify running uniballs for my application. Here in the PNW/ Westcoast of Canada, we deal with a lot of rain = lots of mud and muck that will get into the uniball; therefore shortening the lifespan of that part. You can only spray so much drylube/PTFE spray until the inevitable happens and replacement is needed. When that happens, then you pull the part to service and replace, go for alignment, etc..you get the picture. I chose JBA because they were affordable, customer service was superb, 3 zerk fittings for maintenance, balljoint is easily found and easily replaced incase of failure. This works for me.
However, if I could do it all over again, I would do dobinsons UCA or Ironman UCA. Reason being is less maintenance with the closed balljoint/rubber bushing design. I have to grease the JBAs every 2-3 offroading trips to push out the old grease that has all the dirt and muck. Gets pretty tiresome imho.
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2019 SR5 7 seater Canadian Edition
Kings 2.5 F/R non-adjustable, 1.5" lift all around // 550lb front rate, T13 wheelers springs rear // JBA std uca high caster // Durobumps rear bumpstops
Energy suspension front bumpstops // GY Duratracs load D 285/70/17 // TRDP Wheels // RSG angled sliders // front lower bumper vinyl wrapped black // DIY roof rack + ARB 1250 awning: https://www.toyota-4runner.org/3502577-post43232.html
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