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Old 12-13-2020, 08:42 PM #1
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Always Hot 12V Outlet .. 2021

I've searched and found some interesting solutions but the solutions I've found are for older versions for coming off the fuse block.

I'm not expert enough to really figure this out. Looking for someone to hold my hand so to speak.

I suppose I could simply run from the battery to a new outlet but it would be nice if I can convert blank accessory ports in the dash or console. The parts I find don't cover my year so I don't know if there's been any changes.

A 24/7 12V outlet is a serious deficit. It was a although a known issue before buying this vehicle. Thought it wouldn't be hard to find a solution.

During the Winter months I volunteer as a Guide for Bird Hunts. (Free training for my dog... YES) When I get home from a hunt there's several things I need to do. Just trying to eliminate taking what needs charging into the house and remembering to load them back in.

Always power would be sweet.

My avatar is my dog @ 1 year old, so therefore the long lead. Need to carry my phone for an updated photo. Butt ???

Last edited by 3kushn; 12-13-2020 at 08:46 PM.
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Old 12-14-2020, 05:39 PM #2
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For what it's worth, most people end up running their own 12V always on wiring from the battery (or aftermarket fuse block or w/e) to an outlet since even if Toyota included it OEM it might not be an idea gauge wire (e.g. the 12V outlet in the trunk area).

I think it makes sense not include an always on 12V stock, as inevitably people would leave things plugged in and kill the battery.

Because of the typical shape of the blanks, a classic 12V "cigarette lighter" type port probably won't fit.
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Old 12-14-2020, 06:04 PM #3
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Quote:
Originally Posted by grizzlypath View Post
For what it's worth, most people end up running their own 12V always on wiring from the battery (or aftermarket fuse block or w/e) to an outlet since even if Toyota included it OEM it might not be an idea gauge wire (e.g. the 12V outlet in the trunk area).

I think it makes sense not include an always on 12V stock, as inevitably people would leave things plugged in and kill the battery.

Because of the typical shape of the blanks, a classic 12V "cigarette lighter" type port probably won't fit.
Thanks for the help. For my purpose, my chargers shut down after the battery is charged. Most quality Lithium Ion chargers do (must) this, otherwise they would kill the battery. My battery of most concern is only 2000mAh. That battery against a car battery it would be a worse match up than David and Goliath. Here, David can't only throw sand.

I'm not trying to be rude. Just informing folks here that leaving a phone or some small device on the car battery is of little concern.

BTW my F150 I just traded/scrapped had this feature as standard. I left all kinds of chargers hooked up for the night or a few days. Those batteries were had at least 100X larger capacity. Didn't do the math but the batteries weighed between 1 & 2lbs, vs about 28 grams.
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Old 12-14-2020, 07:32 PM #4
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While I have this setup to a dedicated fuse block with additional items you could run the positive wire to your battery or to an always-on circuit inside the cabin with an add-a-circuit.

Amazon.com: Cllena Quick Charge 3.0 Dual USB Port Charger Socket for Toyota

This site shows the factory fuses.
Toyota 4Runner V (N280) (2010-2022) Fuse box diagrams & schemes - imgVEHICLE.com
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Old 12-14-2020, 08:19 PM #5
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Quote:
Originally Posted by grizzlypath View Post
For what it's worth, most people end up running their own 12V always on wiring from the battery (or aftermarket fuse block or w/e) to an outlet since even if Toyota included it OEM it might not be an idea gauge wire (e.g. the 12V outlet in the trunk area).

I think it makes sense not include an always on 12V stock, as inevitably people would leave things plugged in and kill the battery.

Because of the typical shape of the blanks, a classic 12V "cigarette lighter" type port probably won't fit.
I remember my subarus used to have it available from the factory, but you had to open the fuse panel, and move a fuse over one socket to enable the 12V always hot.

Interesting way to have it. Basically the only way you could do it was if you read the manual.
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Old 12-14-2020, 08:39 PM #6
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 1Louder View Post
While I have this setup to a dedicated fuse block with additional items you could run the positive wire to your battery or to an always-on circuit inside the cabin with an add-a-circuit.

Amazon.com: Cllena Quick Charge 3.0 Dual USB Port Charger Socket for Toyota

This site shows the factory fuses.
Toyota 4Runner V (N280) (2010-2022) Fuse box diagrams & schemes - imgVEHICLE.com
OP - where do you want the power? There are lots of posts you can find where someone installed something like the above in a spot in their dash, so that's a possibility - all the blanks can be replaced.

Or if it's the back, run a wire back from the battery and install this Blue Sea set of outlets: Amazon.com: Blue Sea Systems 4363 Panel Acc H2O USB & SCKT Black: Automotive
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Old 12-15-2020, 08:01 AM #7
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The fuse diagram site 1Louder sent is one thing I was looking for. Although it doesn't look exactly the same, at least it defines the Acronyms. I hope.

What I want is 12V cigarette lighter style outlet. I'd prefer it up front but can accept it in the cargo area if that's easier.
I can't find an outlet that is described to fit in the blank spots on a 2021. I was thinking in the console would be best. I don't know if any design/fit changes have occurred over the last couple years, although the USB Outlet 1Louder put up says it fits 2008- On. Looking promising.

Thanks for the input
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Old 12-15-2020, 01:01 PM #8
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 3kushn View Post
The fuse diagram site 1Louder sent is one thing I was looking for. Although it doesn't look exactly the same, at least it defines the Acronyms. I hope.

What I want is 12V cigarette lighter style outlet. I'd prefer it up front but can accept it in the cargo area if that's easier.
I can't find an outlet that is described to fit in the blank spots on a 2021. I was thinking in the console would be best. I don't know if any design/fit changes have occurred over the last couple years, although the USB Outlet 1Louder put up says it fits 2008- On. Looking promising.

Thanks for the input
The one I provided fits. It is exactly what I have in my 2021 TRD ORP.

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Last edited by 1Louder; 12-15-2020 at 01:04 PM.
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Old 12-15-2020, 04:16 PM #9
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rageandlove View Post
OP - where do you want the power? There are lots of posts you can find where someone installed something like the above in a spot in their dash, so that's a possibility - all the blanks can be replaced.

Or if it's the back, run a wire back from the battery and install this Blue Sea set of outlets: Amazon.com: Blue Sea Systems 4363 Panel Acc H2O USB & SCKT Black: Automotive
Quote:
Originally Posted by 1Louder View Post
The one I provided fits. It is exactly what I have in my 2021 TRD ORP.

Thanks again. My apologies for not paying closer attention to the Fuse Block diagram. I was simply looking at the first one I saw and didn't realize that was the Engine Compartment fuses.

Guess I'll go with this USB setup since it staring me in the face, works, and I don't something sticking out right close to my knee.

Unless there's a better place for an "Add-a-Circuit" The only fuses I know for sure always hot is the Power Seats and Interior Lights.

How does that Blank Plug come out? I'm able to reach it but can't seem to find where it clips in. Doing it blind.

Thanks again

Last edited by 3kushn; 12-15-2020 at 04:22 PM.
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Old 12-15-2020, 05:18 PM #10
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 3kushn View Post
Thanks again. My apologies for not paying closer attention to the Fuse Block diagram. I was simply looking at the first one I saw and didn't realize that was the Engine Compartment fuses.

Guess I'll go with this USB setup since it staring me in the face, works, and I don't something sticking out right close to my knee.

Unless there's a better place for an "Add-a-Circuit" The only fuses I know for sure always hot is the Power Seats and Interior Lights.

Thanks again
If you have a multimeter you can find the always hot fuses in the cabin fuse block. In DC Volts mode and referencing chassis ground with the black lead, probe the installed minifuse test points with the red lead. Youíll find which ones are constant +12 volts and where to install a fuse tap. The alternative is to find a blank (unused) fuse location and install a fuse tap there. By carefully probing the brass tabs you can find the constant +12V.
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Always Hot 12V Outlet .. 2021-47d72045-f007-460a-a0b4-6681a1805184-jpeg 
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Old 12-15-2020, 07:07 PM #11
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ElectroBoy View Post
If you have a multimeter you can find the always hot fuses in the cabin fuse block. In DC Volts mode and referencing chassis ground with the black lead, probe the installed minifuse test points with the red lead. Youíll find which ones are constant +12 volts and where to install a fuse tap. The alternative is to find a blank (unused) fuse location and install a fuse tap there. By carefully probing the brass tabs you can find the constant +12V.
This made me laugh. I do have a meter but really not versed.
Thank you for the reminder. Don't put both probes in each side. There's no + - on the fuse. LOL There's some chance I could have done that, then scratched my head. WTF!

A good friend is an Electrical Engineer. I'd be embarrassed to give him a call.

Seems dismantling the console would be the easiest and likely the safest in case of a crash. I like my knees even if old and ugly. I just got figure out how to get a good grip to pop it loose. Gave it a minor try at a stop light. No go. Maybe latex gloves.

Thanks again for all the input.
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Old 12-15-2020, 07:48 PM #12
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 3kushn View Post
This made me laugh. I do have a meter but really not versed.
Thank you for the reminder. Don't put both probes in each side. There's no + - on the fuse. LOL There's some chance I could have done that, then scratched my head. WTF!

A good friend is an Electrical Engineer. I'd be embarrassed to give him a call.

Seems dismantling the console would be the easiest and likely the safest in case of a crash. I like my knees even if old and ugly. I just got figure out how to get a good grip to pop it loose. Gave it a minor try at a stop light. No go. Maybe latex gloves.

Thanks again for all the input.
There are YouTube videos of how to take apart the dash. Like this one.
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Old 12-15-2020, 08:18 PM #13
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Quote:
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There are YouTube videos of how to take apart the dash. Like this one.
Thanks for the link.
My first curiosity was pulling out the Right side. There's a Blank there that seems convenient. Can't find a vid on that removal. IDK know about earlier versions but on my 2021 there's and AirBag for the knees. Down and close to both sides. i don't want to just start pulling on stuff.

Haven't found a vid or tutorial on pulling the right side.

Never the less i think I've decided to put this thing in the console. I just need to figure out how to pop the clips. Note I've only gave this a minor effort at a stop light.
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Old 12-15-2020, 10:54 PM #14
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 3kushn View Post
Thanks for the link.
My first curiosity was pulling out the Right side. There's a Blank there that seems convenient. Can't find a vid on that removal. IDK know about earlier versions but on my 2021 there's and AirBag for the knees. Down and close to both sides. i don't want to just start pulling on stuff.

Haven't found a vid or tutorial on pulling the right side.

Never the less i think I've decided to put this thing in the console. I just need to figure out how to pop the clips. Note I've only gave this a minor effort at a stop light.
Clips are on the top and the bottom of the switch plates. A small flat blade screwdriver can help you lift the switch plate up and out from the bottom.
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Old 12-16-2020, 09:02 AM #15
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... del

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