I think the 6112 is a pretty good all around shock. My beef with Bilstein is WTF didn't they thread the body instead of the snap rings? That one change would have probably doubled the sales volume. It was the main reason I didn't buy them. Price is fair. Performance is pretty good. But the lack of adjustment was a deal breaker for me. And the cost would be almost nothing to do it. I don't understand Bilstein's logic.

I don't think the rear springs will make much difference. But it won't hurt to try it. They're primary task is to hold the weight up. The rest is done by the shocks. For off road performance you'll usually want the softest spring rate you can use and then dampen with shocks to maximize tire contact and body stability. Softer springs will provide more uniform weight distribution over uneven terrain and less body movement over obstacles at higher speeds, but end up with more body roll on off camber stuff in some situations. And of course softer springs don't work well for adding more weight or for highway use. It's all a bit of a balancing act unless you get super fancy with electronics that change behavior in different conditions.

He's literally just 2 minutes down the street from me (Glen). I'm eating lunch at the Panda express by Radflo lol

I misunderstood what you were saying, sorry.

Regardless, I researched the hell out of my second lift and that never came up as a pro or a con with the discussions I had with suspension gurus.

Who did you talk to at Radflo? Glenn, or the south African guy?

Dollars to doughnuts whoever it was intended to say piston rather than shaft. As others have said, the shaft has no impact on dampening, but the piston size absolutely does.

If you're that hard up for a set, I'm going to be pulling my Radflo ET 2.5" single tube coilovers and LT remote resi rears off in mid February. They'll have about 90k miles on them, but they just had new seals and fluid in July. Should be good more or less indefinitely provided you rebuild them every 30k or so.

Dm me if you're interested, we'll chat.

Thanks for those comments, valuable input. The springs are 186 vs 203-204 so it may not be worth the hassle.

This is crazy, Glen, yes. Maybe you can ask him over some honey walnut shrimp!

Seriously, though, if you have a chance to ask, please do

Let's see if he tells you the same thing he told me

What are you replacing it with??

Custom length 2.5" remote resi Elkas front and rear. Eventually I plan to add a hydro bump stop to the rear as well.

Excellent choice! Can take it to the PMs but curious to what you're doing for the rears.

Same 2.5" remote Elkas with compression clickers, but they're doing a custom length for me to accommodate my LT springs (metaltech 104/300 lb/in) and adjustable 4 link setup.

Alright, last off topic post I promise. Planning out a rear LT eventually and curious to what everyone else is doing. You going with a 2 or 3 inch bump stop extension? One fella I was talking to spoke highly of the 2in (27.5 extended) versus the 3in as it would bottom out less frequently. Thoughts?

These are what I run .

I don't see the wisdom in running a shorter bump stop because in that case, the shock is going to take all the force of a bottom out as it reaches the end of its stroke under hard compression rather than the bump stop. So I guess it's a question of whether you want to take a hard hit on your cheap rubber bump stop, or your expensive LT shock.

And in terms of shock length, you want to match your shocks to your springs. There would be no concerns with bottoming out the shock with a proper height bump stop provided you have a legit LT spring. If you find you hit the bump stop too often, you could 1) put stiffer valving in, 2) carry less weight, or 3) get hydraulic bump stops.

Accutune confirmed that a larger shaft in the rear than in the front is not ideal but, unlike, Radflo, said it is not a show stopper providing correct tuning.

And what happened to Jetboy?