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Old 12-26-2020, 06:42 AM #16
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I've been using a plastic milk crate under my skid plate when I remove it. Not perfect height but pretty close. The stud solution seems like a good one, but with as much cutting oil and then anti-seize I have used so far, cleaning out the threads enough so lock-tite would hold the stud might be a challenge. Maybe a thin jamb nut holding the stud against the frame?
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Old 12-26-2020, 11:58 AM #17
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Originally Posted by AMLOR View Post
If recall correctly these were either 40 or 45 mm long, 10 x1.25 thread pitch. (these are the same size and pitch as the factory bolts...nothing else will fit. These were 318 stainless studs.
These are also occasionally used as exhaust studs, so look there as well.
The threaded area on the frame is deep enough to get the studs adjusted to the perfect length for your application. Just requires careful measurement and some patience the first time.
The nuts were serrated flange nuts of the same size and thread pitch.

Amlor
Did you use studs that are of equal length on both ends?
Once screwed in, did you use locktite, if so which one.... blue or red (red one requires heat to remove part)?

Once the studs were installed, did they protrude past the bottom of the skid or did you have to cut them?
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Old 12-26-2020, 12:07 PM #18
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Originally Posted by Deuxdiesel View Post
I've been using a plastic milk crate under my skid plate when I remove it. Not perfect height but pretty close. The stud solution seems like a good one, but with as much cutting oil and then anti-seize I have used so far, cleaning out the threads enough so lock-tite would hold the stud might be a challenge. Maybe a thin jamb nut holding the stud against the frame?
I would be in the same situation, maybe a healthy dose of brake cleaner or something like CRC Electric Parts Cleaner. That should chase all oil and never seize from the threads.
The jamb nut would work if there is enough space without interference of the skid.
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Last edited by Saker; 12-26-2020 at 11:01 PM.
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Old 12-26-2020, 09:34 PM #19
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Saker View Post
Did you use studs that are of equal length on both ends?
Once screwed in, did you use locktite, if so which one.... blue or red (red one requires heat to remove part)?

Once the studs were installed, did they protrude past the bottom of the skid or did you have to cut them?
Yes they were the same length on both ends, though the ones on the non radiator side were screwed in somewhat deeper (as far as they would go) and they still protrude a bit beyond the top of the flange nut...maybe 3/16 inch max.
Radiator side is only one thread beyond the top of the nut.
Yes, I used BLUE loctite on the stud end into the frame.
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Old 12-26-2020, 11:04 PM #20
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Quote:
Originally Posted by AMLOR View Post
Yes they were the same length on both ends, though the ones on the non radiator side were screwed in somewhat deeper (as far as they would go) and they still protrude a bit beyond the top of the flange nut...maybe 3/16 inch max.
Radiator side is only one thread beyond the top of the nut.
Yes, I used BLUE loctite on the stud end into the frame.
AMLOR
That leaves me to question, Would studs with unequal length threads work better by tightening them all the way in and cutting off the excess after measuring proper length needed?
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Old 12-27-2020, 09:13 AM #21
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That leaves me to question, Would studs with unequal length threads work better by tightening them all the way in and cutting off the excess after measuring proper length needed?
Better? I would think the more thread we can get into the frame mounting holes the better...less chance of them getting ripped out with aggressive off roading. The stock bolts were 40mm in length if I remember correctly...
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Old 12-27-2020, 11:54 AM #22
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Better? I would think the more thread we can get into the frame mounting holes the better...less chance of them getting ripped out with aggressive off roading. The stock bolts were 40mm in length if I remember correctly...
I was trying to remember just how deep the frame threads are and being able to bottom out the studs against the stud shoulder.....

IIRC, Maximum bolt stud / strength is achieved when thread contact is equal in length to the diameter of the bolt / stud.
So, if you have, 2 times as much bolt threaded in, does it offer more strength?

I'm just trying to figure out the most secure way so the Loctited studs would not back out (tightened in all the way to the shoulder as intended) when removed by me or by the dealer.
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Old 12-27-2020, 11:58 AM #23
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I've been using a plastic milk crate under my skid plate when I remove it. Not perfect height but pretty close. The stud solution seems like a good one, but with as much cutting oil and then anti-seize I have used so far, cleaning out the threads enough so lock-tite would hold the stud might be a challenge. Maybe a thin jamb nut holding the stud against the frame?
That's a good idea. $5.89 at Home Depot. Worth a try. Thanks!

Last edited by rageandlove; 12-27-2020 at 12:00 PM.
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Old 01-01-2021, 07:12 PM #24
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I highly recommend chasing threads all the way thru until the tap exits.
Definitely use tap magic or some type of lightweight oil, remove debris from tap and threaded hole with brake cleaner or something to flush with.
This is what I did on my 14' & recently on my 21'.

https://www.toyota-4runner.org/1798124-post58.html
Update, ordered a better tap from Amazon "uxcell" along with the Irwin handle and tap magic cutting fluid. Went through like butter using 1 hand. Put the long bolts in without any issue and applied the permatex. TY TY
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Old 01-01-2021, 08:15 PM #25
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Can you supply a link?
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Old 01-02-2021, 09:21 PM #26
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That's a good idea. $5.89 at Home Depot. Worth a try. Thanks!
OK, that didn't work. Not sure if milk crates come in different sizes, but all three sides were too tall.

Fortunately, I discovered the 1-gallon distilled water jugs I have in the garage for earthquake preparedness are almost the perfect height, so that's the new approach.
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