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Old 12-23-2020, 12:57 PM #1
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TRD Pro Skid Plate & Oil Changes

Hey for all of you that remove your TRD skid as part of changing the oil, 2 questions.

1) I've read that when putting the skid back on, running a tap with cutting oil helps prevent eventual stripping of the bolt due to "gunk" build up. But do you then need to clean the oil out of the nut so that the bolt isn't prone to coming loose? How does one go about that?

2) The skid is a lot easier to bolt/un-bolt when it's held up by something tight to the vehicle. Has anyone got a good solution for that? I've been using makeshift stuff like blocks of wood, but I'm sure others have a better plan.

Thanks!
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Old 12-23-2020, 01:40 PM #2
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rageandlove View Post
1) I've read that when putting the skid back on, running a tap with cutting oil helps prevent eventual stripping of the bolt due to "gunk" build up. But do you then need to clean the oil out of the nut so that the bolt isn't prone to coming loose? How does one go about that?

Thanks!
Running a tap in the threads is most important when adding the TRD skid plate to a vehicle that came from the factory without it, such as an SR5. Seems there is "gunk" in the threads already since the bolts for the previous skid plate are not as long, and stuff is left from the manufacturing process. If your 4Runner came from the factory with the TRD skid plate, there is no need to use a tap. Once cleaned out, there is no need to use a tap at every oil change.

Besides cutting oil, there will be metal chips left from the tap that should be removed as well. That is easy to remove since many lubricants/ cleaners such as WD40 come with a long straw; just insert the straw into the hole and spray.

If the bolts are torqued correctly, they won't come loose even if there is oil on the threads. Besides, the oil is beneficial because it helps prevent rust.

More important is to do something to keep the bolt from seizing when the metal does rust, and it will over time. Thus many people suggest using anti-seize on the bolt threads. Another option is to get stainless bolts of the same size at Nut and Bolt supply. Bolt & Nut Supply Co. - Fasteners, Bolts, Nuts, & Screws

Last edited by fkheath; 12-23-2020 at 01:43 PM.
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Old 12-23-2020, 01:44 PM #3
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I changed out the bolts and use studs\nuts on the frame instead. Much easier to line up the skidplate with the studs
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Old 12-23-2020, 01:48 PM #4
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This thread might be of some interest

If you have a TRD Skid Plate Read This!
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Old 12-23-2020, 01:50 PM #5
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Quote:
Originally Posted by anomalous View Post
I changed out the bolts and use studs\nuts on the frame instead. Much easier to line up the skidplate with the studs
Great idea! Just be sure to use thread lock on the studs where they go into the frame so they don't come loose when you remove the nuts for an oil change. Then use anti-seize on the nuts or get stainless studs/nuts/lock washers.
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Old 12-23-2020, 05:29 PM #6
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I have a 20 pro that came with the skid plate and still had to do the tap procedure to get it back on. It made the first oil change FUN. Those rear bolts would not go in more than half way. It was easy to see why dealers often strip them.


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Old 12-23-2020, 06:29 PM #7
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Saturnine90 View Post
I have a 20 pro that came with the skid plate and still had to do the tap procedure to get it back on. It made the first oil change FUN. Those rear bolts would not go in more than half way. It was easy to see why dealers often strip them.


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With the junk in the threads and having to hold up he skid plate, it is hard to get the bolts started, thus they get cross threaded easily. Once the internal threads are torn up, the only good solution is to install some Timeserts: ++ TIME-SERT Official Threaded inserts for stripped threads, blown out sparkplugs,

That is why I like anomalous idea to replace the bolts with studs/nuts. Easier to hold up the skid plate while starting the nuts.

Last edited by fkheath; 12-23-2020 at 06:31 PM.
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Old 12-23-2020, 08:20 PM #8
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If you use studs, make sure they are not too long. You really don't want any threads protruding past the nut when tightened.
But that's an easy fix with a Dremel tool!

YMMV
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Old 12-24-2020, 08:44 AM #9
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Whew, was about to install my skid plate this morning, glad I saw this first. Looks like I'll be ordering some tools and doing it next weekend instead. Better safe than sorry.

Edit: After finding and driving 30 miles each way only to accidently pick up the SAE tap instead of metric then going back 30 miles each way to get the metric only to fight with the threads for over an hour........ I ended up using the stock bolts for the rear lol. I could get the tap most of the way through that wasn't a big issue as much as it was a pain but I still didn't like how tough it was to turn the new long bolts past half way. They weren't impossibly hard to turn but with the muscle I needed to put into it I just didn't feel comfortable using them and yeah everything was greased and cleaned up real well.

I think where I failed was not getting a cutting agent, I was trying to use WD40 because the hardware store didn't have any cutter. I may order some and try again but I'm definitely done for today.

Last edited by batman900; 12-24-2020 at 03:43 PM.
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Old 12-24-2020, 06:20 PM #10
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Quote:
Originally Posted by batman900 View Post
Whew, was about to install my skid plate this morning, glad I saw this first. Looks like I'll be ordering some tools and doing it next weekend instead. Better safe than sorry.

Edit: After finding and driving 30 miles each way only to accidently pick up the SAE tap instead of metric then going back 30 miles each way to get the metric only to fight with the threads for over an hour........ I ended up using the stock bolts for the rear lol. I could get the tap most of the way through that wasn't a big issue as much as it was a pain but I still didn't like how tough it was to turn the new long bolts past half way. They weren't impossibly hard to turn but with the muscle I needed to put into it I just didn't feel comfortable using them and yeah everything was greased and cleaned up real well.

I think where I failed was not getting a cutting agent, I was trying to use WD40 because the hardware store didn't have any cutter. I may order some and try again but I'm definitely done for today.
I highly recommend chasing threads all the way thru until the tap exits.
Definitely use tap magic or some type of lightweight oil, remove debris from tap and threaded hole with brake cleaner or something to flush with.
This is what I did on my 14' & recently on my 21'.

https://www.toyota-4runner.org/1798124-post58.html
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Last edited by Saker; 12-24-2020 at 08:50 PM.
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Old 12-24-2020, 09:52 PM #11
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Quote:
Originally Posted by anomalous View Post
I changed out the bolts and use studs\nuts on the frame instead. Much easier to line up the skidplate with the studs
THIS ^^^

Chase the threads, clean up the grease and mess from the threads and put a SET OF STUDS in place of the bolts..on and off in 2 minutes flat.
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Old 12-25-2020, 01:06 PM #12
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Quote:
Originally Posted by AMLOR View Post
THIS ^^^

Chase the threads, clean up the grease and mess from the threads and put a SET OF STUDS in place of the bolts..on and off in 2 minutes flat.
Did you use any particular studs/nuts? Size and type...
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Old 12-25-2020, 07:29 PM #13
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Quote:
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Did you use any particular studs/nuts? Size and type...
Also wondering this.
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Old 12-25-2020, 08:58 PM #14
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JSBTRD View Post
Did you use any particular studs/nuts? Size and type...
If recall correctly these were either 40 or 45 mm long, 10 x1.25 thread pitch. (these are the same size and pitch as the factory bolts...nothing else will fit. These were 318 stainless studs.
These are also occasionally used as exhaust studs, so look there as well.
The threaded area on the frame is deep enough to get the studs adjusted to the perfect length for your application. Just requires careful measurement and some patience the first time.
The nuts were serrated flange nuts of the same size and thread pitch.

Amlor
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Last edited by AMLOR; 12-25-2020 at 09:00 PM. Reason: added info
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Old 12-26-2020, 01:38 AM #15
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Quote:
Originally Posted by AMLOR View Post
If recall correctly these were either 40 or 45 mm long, 10 x1.25 thread pitch. (these are the same size and pitch as the factory bolts...nothing else will fit. These were 318 stainless studs.
These are also occasionally used as exhaust studs, so look there as well.
The threaded area on the frame is deep enough to get the studs adjusted to the perfect length for your application. Just requires careful measurement and some patience the first time.
The nuts were serrated flange nuts of the same size and thread pitch.

Amlor
Can you supply a link?
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