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Old 01-06-2021, 12:58 PM #16
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Eldirector View Post
Happy New Year to all and thanks again for all of your input and advice. I was able to install a 100 watt Renogy panel with a Victron 75/15 BT mppt and modified the brackets to bolt directly to me removable rack portion locations. The cables were a simple run down the side of the headliner as one tucks perfectly into an existing crevice that runs the length downward into the engine bay and I wired tied them to together. I did order the KC Hide a wire kit, but I didn't want to wait so I'll see if I install when it arrives.

I don't fully understand all the data coming into the Victron, but I do know that it is charging and cycles through the different phases: Float, Absorption and Bulk. I think that I know the answer to this one, but do I also need when of them "charge booster" diodes as well or as I believe doesn't this set up work around that?
Make sure you set the charge settings on the controller per your battery manufactures spec.
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Old 01-07-2021, 01:13 AM #17
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FYI anyone doing this should look up gauge requirements - 10awg is way overkill for 100w - you only need 14 (since it's <10amps). The math works the same as in-house wiring. Also why I ran my two panels in series - they're nominally 12v panels, so that's 24v at 200w = 8 amps max, so 14awg is fine (and the whole setup puts out more like 50 volts in the sun - why you need a solar charger).

Not only are higher gauge cables a waste of money, if you end up running them through the headliner and around corners, the smaller gauge the easier time you'll have installing.
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Old 09-28-2021, 07:24 AM #18
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If you think about installing, as a rule, the batteries are placed on the house's roof: this is the most convenient option for most cases since the illumination from the height of the location does not change. However, if the roof, for some reason, can not become a platform for batteries, they can be placed on the ground (in the form of a screen, the components modules of which are turned to the south). If you're not quite up to speed on this, I think you should seek help from Jack Cliff's solar install. They will be able to hook up and install the whole structure without any problems.

Last edited by mihamilton; 09-30-2021 at 12:54 PM.
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Old 09-28-2021, 06:10 PM #19
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I've had a 100 watt Reneogy panel on my rack, with a 10 amp MPPT controller running my Dometic fridge that lives in the truck for 9-10 months out of the year. I've been running the same Northstar AGM group 31 for 5 years now.

No issues.
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Old 11-14-2021, 07:58 PM #20
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I recently started thinking about getting a tunnel light for the cellar. I bought a strip of light bulbs with an energy consumption of 40 kWh / 1000 hr. The colour of the light I chose was CW, but I was still pretty happy with it. The battery was rated at 3.2V / 15AH as far as I remember, but I was worried that it wouldn't last long without power. Then at 23lm / watt, I decided to connect the streetlights (here it is trimthatweed.com)to it the same way as you did (those who know in the comments how to do it). Anyway, all the current went into the wires, and I noticed that the generator is charging my bulbs, and those transmit the energy further by direct flow to the tunnel lights. Everything seemed to be working well, but as soon as I plugged in the solar panel, the whole system just broke down and I ended up with no electricity in the entire place. I thought the bulb I must have burned out because of the voltage and current, but apparently it wasn't that.
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