I replaced the stock battery with an optima last year, and I had to use my jump starter this morning actually. It was only 38 last night, and my 4R lives in the garage. Pretty sure it’s the alternator as I can’t even run music for more than 30min (not full volume) without killing it. Amp is an alpine S-A32F 55 watts RMS x 4 at 4 ohms (80 watts RMS x 4 at 2 ohms)
if you didn't mess around with the ALT-S fuse, then you haven't fully charged your optima in the year you've had it. This would probably kill the battery pretty quickly. Stock charging system, even with a upgraded DC Power Alternator, that i also have, won't fully charge any AGM battery. You need either a diode for ALT-S or one of the boosters that some guys on the forum sell.
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2017 Barcelona Red TRD PRO - Urd Supercharged - 4.88 Gears - ADS Shocks with External Reservoir/Clickers - King Secondary and Rear Bumpstops - Total Chaos Expedition LCA - JDFabrication LCA Pivot - RCV CV Axles - Icon UCA - Titan7 T-AK1 - Nitto Ridge Grappler 285/75R17 - Oem+ Reference Audio - Proline R1 Guard Bumper - Pelfreybilt Base Rear Bumper - Heftyfab Skids - Demello X-Wing Sliders - Prinsu Roofrack - Sos Stoptech Big Brake Kit - TJM Snorkel - URD Mark3 Catback Exhaust
i don't know if i'm reading right. but Antigravity batteries have like half the reserves, maybe even less then you have in an agm battery like odyssey?
Since i don't really do much overloading, and not running much beyond lights and stereo equip, the power save features, battery monitoring, and weight savings carry more value to me. Having said that, I contacted my guy about canceling the order since it still hasn't shipped. Think im going to run with the cable/alternator install instead.
Can you tell me more about the ALT-S fuse/Diode upgrade? Ill do a search but would like a firsthand account.
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2021 JGC Trailhawk (waiting for the 6th Gen 4R
2015 Silver TE: (SOLD) KDSS, ICON stg 2, Magnuson, Victory Blitz sliders, Fuel Blitz DDT 18x9 w/ -12o/s, 275/65/18 Nitto TGG2, ARB skids, Spidertrax spacers, Alpharex Luxx, Rigid 40” Stealth LED bar & 360 fogs, Switch Pro 9100 w/ Mount Tray, KC Flex Dual Ditch Lights, KC Cyclone Rock Lights, LED interior, SSS hybrid winch bumper, 30" Rough Country single row LED, Alpine ILX-F308/R line speakers, 8" Alpine Powered Sub. Prinsu Full no-drill roof rack.
Since i don't really do much overloading, and not running much beyond lights and stereo equip, the power save features, battery monitoring, and weight savings carry more value to me. Having said that, I contacted my guy about canceling the order since it still hasn't shipped. Think im going to run with the cable/alternator install instead.
Can you tell me more about the ALT-S fuse/Diode upgrade? Ill do a search but would like a firsthand account.
theres a GM diode that will work too, i think like 8 bucks.
If you have a AGM battery and you haven't boosted charging voltage, that probably killed your AGM in the year.
Previously with OEM and DC Power, i had charging under 14v. AGM needs higher then 14 to get to 100%
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2017 Barcelona Red TRD PRO - Urd Supercharged - 4.88 Gears - ADS Shocks with External Reservoir/Clickers - King Secondary and Rear Bumpstops - Total Chaos Expedition LCA - JDFabrication LCA Pivot - RCV CV Axles - Icon UCA - Titan7 T-AK1 - Nitto Ridge Grappler 285/75R17 - Oem+ Reference Audio - Proline R1 Guard Bumper - Pelfreybilt Base Rear Bumper - Heftyfab Skids - Demello X-Wing Sliders - Prinsu Roofrack - Sos Stoptech Big Brake Kit - TJM Snorkel - URD Mark3 Catback Exhaust
theres a GM diode that will work too, i think like 8 bucks.
If you have a AGM battery and you haven't boosted charging voltage, that probably killed your AGM in the year.
Previously with OEM and DC Power, i had charging under 14v. AGM needs higher then 14 to get to 100%
Well that checks, I never get over 13.6 at speed and maintain about 13.2 at idle.
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2021 JGC Trailhawk (waiting for the 6th Gen 4R
2015 Silver TE: (SOLD) KDSS, ICON stg 2, Magnuson, Victory Blitz sliders, Fuel Blitz DDT 18x9 w/ -12o/s, 275/65/18 Nitto TGG2, ARB skids, Spidertrax spacers, Alpharex Luxx, Rigid 40” Stealth LED bar & 360 fogs, Switch Pro 9100 w/ Mount Tray, KC Flex Dual Ditch Lights, KC Cyclone Rock Lights, LED interior, SSS hybrid winch bumper, 30" Rough Country single row LED, Alpine ILX-F308/R line speakers, 8" Alpine Powered Sub. Prinsu Full no-drill roof rack.
Hey OP, Brevard county neighbor here.
I went through this last year. I have two AGMs in my 5th gen and one in my 4th gen. I still put a charger on my batteries every couple of weeks to keep them topped off, mostly because of lack of use, but I installed a Dirty Parts - Alternator Voltage Booster.
Now there have been plenty of people who have modified a GM diode to do what the DP booster does for a lot less money ($10?), but you eliminate a fuse in the process. The chances of having issues are slim, but still there with a fire being the worst case scenario. If you do the DP unit, make sure you designate you want the 5th gen, as the fuse box is laid out a little different from a 4th gen.
Here is the one I installed: Dirty Parts
This one is more expensive but a pretty cool switchable model w an over boost mode: ARC LIGHT LEDs
I did a short video of the install on my 4th Gen:
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1988 DLX 22RE AUTO BLACK-"Granny" - SOLD
2003 SR5 SPORT V8- Build- "Pearl" You Tube 2UZ 120
2012 LIMITED V6 "LE Mae" 5TH GEN BUILD THREAD
Hey OP, Brevard county neighbor here.
I went through this last year. I have two AGMs in my 5th gen and one in my 4th gen. I still put a charger on my batteries every couple of weeks to keep them topped off, mostly because of lack of use, but I installed a Dirty Parts - Alternator Voltage Booster.
Now there have been plenty of people who have modified a GM diode to do what the DP booster does for a lot less money ($10?), but you eliminate a fuse in the process. The chances of having issues are slim, but still there with a fire being the worst case scenario. If you do the DP unit, make sure you designate you want the 5th gen, as the fuse box is laid out a little different from a 4th gen.
Here is the one I installed: Dirty Parts
This one is more expensive but a pretty cool switchable model w an over boost mode: ARC LIGHT LEDs
I did a short video of the install on my 4th Gen:
Got the part installed today, think its going to do the trick. Stereo monitor shows 14.1 at idle, meter between +/- posts on the battery shows 16.8v vs 14v before the swap.
Thanks to everyone for all the pointers. Wish i would've asked about this issue before making the expensive purchases. Anyone want a brand new DC Power Alternator for $30 off? PM me...
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2021 JGC Trailhawk (waiting for the 6th Gen 4R
2015 Silver TE: (SOLD) KDSS, ICON stg 2, Magnuson, Victory Blitz sliders, Fuel Blitz DDT 18x9 w/ -12o/s, 275/65/18 Nitto TGG2, ARB skids, Spidertrax spacers, Alpharex Luxx, Rigid 40” Stealth LED bar & 360 fogs, Switch Pro 9100 w/ Mount Tray, KC Flex Dual Ditch Lights, KC Cyclone Rock Lights, LED interior, SSS hybrid winch bumper, 30" Rough Country single row LED, Alpine ILX-F308/R line speakers, 8" Alpine Powered Sub. Prinsu Full no-drill roof rack.
Got the part installed today, think its going to do the trick. Stereo monitor shows 14.1 at idle, meter between +/- posts on the battery shows 16.8v vs 14v before the swap.
Thanks to everyone for all the pointers. Wish i would've asked about this issue before making the expensive purchases. Anyone want a brand new DC Power Alternator for $30 off? PM me...
Something doesn't seem right. You shouldn't be seeing over 15 volts at the battery. Be careful because there are electronics that can be damaged from such high voltage. Which part did you go with?
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1988 DLX 22RE AUTO BLACK-"Granny" - SOLD
2003 SR5 SPORT V8- Build- "Pearl" You Tube 2UZ 120
2012 LIMITED V6 "LE Mae" 5TH GEN BUILD THREAD