Recently installed a set of bfg ta ko2 E rated 10 ply tires on stock wheels.

I think I didn’t get a very good tire balancing job on the installation. My truck was wobbling/shaking slightly on highway at 100km/h speed.

Then, after the first off road trip of my new tires, 100km/h speed shaking is gone, now it’s shaking at about at 61-63km/h speed.

I am not sure what made this change, maybe the tire balancing weights/ bricks fell off, or there are some muds stuck in wheel.

Is it worth to spend $ to re balance my tires?

I heard that off road tires are difficult to be balanced perfectly, and once get balanced, they will go out off balance again after next adventure.

Do you guys have this similar issue on your tires?
What do you think about this type of slight vibrations on off-road vehicles?

Thanks in advance!

I don't know where you are located that you use KM/H, but try to find a shop with Hunter's ROAD FORCE balancing & force matching.
https://www.hunter.com/wheel-balance...d-force-elite/


Worth your time to watch .

I'm going thru this right now on K02 C rated tires. On my 4th balance right now and I'm only at 1500mi on these things. Discount does have the Road Force balance if you want to try that.
Going today to balance the front again and hoping for the best.
I've read most people have this issue with C rated K02's vs the E rated. Either way I hope you getting it resolved

I’ve had no balancing issues with the E load Grabber ATX since day one. It’s been roughly 1300 miles and they’ve remained balanced even after some very rocky trails. Nothing but smooth riding all the way up to 85 mph.

I would double check tire pressure first. E rate tire pressure should be around 40-45 PSI. I had 32 PSI for almost 2 years and the steering wheel would shake at on ramp speed.
Then I would rotate tires back to front to see if it makes a difference. While you are on it, check if mud got stuck inside the wheels.

I couldn't get rid of the steering wheel shake until I ditched the KO2s.

I second this...at our shop we roadforce everything under a 35in tire.

It's worth repeating, Roadforce balancing is important and making sure the lug centric adapter is used on the balancing machine with oem wheels.

I recently had C rated K02's mounted and just naively trusted a random tire shop chain and of course, they had neither and had a pretty noticeable 60mph vibration through the steering wheel. I didn't waste any more time and had a Toyota dealer with both items in place correct it and they confirmed they were way off. 100% resolved afterwards.

I've had no problems with my BFG KO2 E rated tires.

Most of the tire dealers I have dealt with have a lifetime balance warranty, so a rebalance should not cost you anything.

Check the lug nuts to be sure they are tight. The Toyota 4runner uses those weird lug nuts with washers built in, so they must all be tight and the wheel must be centered on the hub when you tighten the lug nuts.

Yes you definately want to have the tires Road Force Balanced. But the most important thing is the operator of the RFB machine must KNOW how to use it properly. I have been to multiple tire shops that had the RF, but the punk ass kids running the machine couldn't give 2 fuks about how the tires were balanced. I run the OEM size BFG KO2's, Load range C (6 ply) with 39 lbs air (front & rear) & it is as smooth going down the Hiway as the OEM Bridgestone "P" rated tires.

Road force balancing is mandatory. If you run on the tires too long with the high speed shake issue going on, they will wear uneven and it is near impossible to clean up. If they don't clean up with road force balancing, demand new tires.

It also puts your bushings through hell.