Evening all. Posted this somewhere else, but like everyone’s 2cents. I need a new passenger side LCA. Probably should replace both. Wasn’t expecting this but when we want to align my new 285s, the eccentric was seized to the bushing sleeve resulting in not being able to completely get the Alignment right. With that being said, I need a new LCA. I think. Any suggestions? I don’t need anything crazy like a dirt king, etc. something comparable to the Stock oem LCAs. I don’t want to pay a shit ton either. Or is it something where I can somehow get the bolts out to replace. Or somehow loosen to finish the alignment. I have a 2016 Trail non KDSS. Working with Dobinson UCAs and 285 70-17s.

Whatcha drivin'? (year)

2016 non kdss


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I had a similar issue and soaked them almost daily with aerokroil for a couple weeks and it loosened em up just enough. Mine may have been a minor case but a can is cheaper than new LCA's.

I've always used sea foam deep creep.

Sea Foam | Makers of Sea Foam Motor Treatment & other engine products

ATF mixed with acetone is also supposed to work well.

Use penetrant, a heat gun and a hammer (or impact) daily for a while and see if you don't get it to budge. If using an impact, use a tight-fitting quality socket and alternate between loosening and tightening.

if the bushes and ball joints are OK, I would replace the bolts and alignment pieces only.

Acetone will attack rubber and plastic. Not good.

After market lca's are expensive because they're heavily upgraded with skid plates, dual shock capability, or LT geometry. You won't find a cheap oem equivalent.

Best bet is to try to get it loose using the tricks posted above, or pony up and pay Toyota for oem. If you do decide to go aftermarket, I run the boxed stock length lca's from Total Chaos. Had them on for 7 years or so now with zero issues.

Thanks everyone. This was a huge help. So I spoke with my shop buddy. We aren’t going to replace the arm. Way to expensive for a non broken part. We will order the bolt and bushings, etc. try to remove without breaking the bushing. If all else, cut the bolt and then replace the bushing and bolt. And walllla. I hope. To be continued unless anyone else has something to add.


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It's not uncommon for the eccentric sleeve to become one with the inner sleeve of the bushing here in new england. You can usually apply lots of heat to break them loose but it's bad for the bushings. I replaced my lower bushings with Whiteline urethane ones. And used lots of antiseize putting it back together. Made a huge difference in steering feel. One of the old eccentrics I had to cut out of the truck and the dealer had replacements in stock. I wish I could say the bushing install went smooth but it was actually quite a pain and I do work on cars for a living.

Why was it a pain? I have some on order.

The bushings press out from the insides of the arm. Of all the tools in my shop I actually wound up using the stock jack and a propane torch to press out the inners then I carefully air-chiseled out the sleeves. Once the old ones were out the new ones went in super-easy and I am very pleased with the results. Of course then I had to make the rear match with a pair of Rokmen lower arms and whiteline bushings in the track bar. With that and urethane sway bar bushings along with the bilstein 5100/eibach spring combo it's amazing how well the truck handles now. It corners dramatically better than stock and it's lifted on 285's! Granted the ride is firm but it finally doesn't feel all gross and loose like it did stock.

Thanks, I misunderstood.

Removing control arm bushings is always a PITA. I've used a bottle jack and some chain. You can cut the inner sleeve and burn them out, but it's messy.