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Old 02-04-2021, 08:26 PM #31
Carova Colton Carova Colton is offline
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Well, I dried out the connector used WD40 and compressed air to blow it out. I added some dielectric grease and.... drumroll. No change. The main ECU did get wet on the passenger side. I dried it out but could this be causing the problem?
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Old 02-05-2021, 04:14 PM #32
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Also, of note. I hooked up my code reading computer to see what OBD2 codes were being thrown and the computer had no communication with the main ECU
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Old 02-06-2021, 04:42 PM #33
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Carova Colton View Post
Also, of note. I hooked up my code reading computer to see what OBD2 codes were being thrown and the computer had no communication with the main ECU
I wonder if that ECU was damaged with water...Could Toyota connect to the truck with their fancy computer and confirm a bad ECU? I'm sure they'll wanna charge a few hundred bucks for that unfortunately.

Maybe you could pull one off a wrecked, identical 4runner at a junkyard and swap it? See what happens?
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Old 02-06-2021, 05:19 PM #34
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I totally feel your pain. In December I got stuck on a river crossing and Had about 6 inches of water in the cabin. Luckily it was clean as can be mountain water.. no mud.

I immediately got back and pulled out the entire interior. Set up a few heaters and then 4 fans moving air. I vacuumed as much water out of the pads under the carpet. This was dry as it could be. Doorcards, console, seats carpet everything came out. Put it back together.

Next few weeks I got neutral safety switch issues, crankshaft position sensor failure, rear hatch actuator failed. Now that I have all that fixed, I’m trying to diagnose a small current draw on my oem circuits (all my auxiliary stuff is disconnected) that means I have to boost my rig every morning.. which sucks cause it’s -30 now. After 2 days of that I threw a battery maintainer on but my battery now is too weak and I’m boosting it anyways every day...
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Old 02-07-2021, 12:23 PM #35
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If you can't sort it out you might be able to get it repaired or replaced through your auto insurance. This would be a claim on your comprehensive coverage. Check your policy to confirm that you have the coverage before calling to make a claim. Comprehensive claims generally don't increase your insurance rate. I obviously don't know your situation (loan on the vehicle or not, insurance coverage, the desire to not get a new auto loan, etc.), but this might help you move twords a solution quicker.
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Old 02-07-2021, 02:00 PM #36
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My biggest fear when off-roading or going through water is getting water in the floorboards. I avoid water holes I could probably easily traverse as a result. Just isn't worth it to me.

Best of luck man
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Old 02-12-2021, 12:12 AM #37
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I’m with Rusty at this point. I think I need to swap out that computer and neutral safety switch. Hope I don’t have the same cascading casualties that you have. Trying to get one that fits my budget.
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Old 02-12-2021, 02:52 PM #38
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The ECM connectors do not have water-resistant seals on them, as do models where the ECM is mounted under the hood. Submerging the ECM would cause pins to short and blow components on the printed circuit board. Replacement is the next step.

edit: if it works like other Toyotas, you can grab a junkyard one, sync the immobilizer using a paperclip jumper, and that will get it running.

Immobilizer sync: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=HQXgbSUQ0Yo

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Old 02-14-2021, 12:49 PM #39
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Carova Colton View Post
Well, I dried out the connector used WD40 and compressed air to blow it out. I added some dielectric grease and.... drumroll. No change. The main ECU did get wet on the passenger side. I dried it out but could this be causing the problem?
I would not use WD40 for this. You need electrical contact cleaner.
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Old 02-17-2021, 12:28 AM #40
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Ok, I pulled the passenger side ECU computer. Took it apart and cleaned it with soap and hot water and a toothbrush. Dried it off with both and compressed air and let sit with dehumidifier. Put it back together with dielectric grease and it seems to be working properly again. Going to pull the plugs to crank over to ensure there is no water in the engine before the moment of truth. We have had 7 days of straight freezing rain and cold as hell temps. Sorry but I have not been working on this every day.
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Old 02-17-2021, 12:44 AM #41
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Waypoint, thanks for the lead on the ECU. I may just buy it for good measure in case this one stops working again.
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Old 02-17-2021, 03:22 AM #42
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Carova Colton View Post
Ok, I pulled the passenger side ECU computer. Took it apart and cleaned it with soap and hot water and a toothbrush. Dried it off with both and compressed air and let sit with dehumidifier. Put it back together with dielectric grease and it seems to be working properly again. Going to pull the plugs to crank over to ensure there is no water in the engine before the moment of truth. We have had 7 days of straight freezing rain and cold as hell temps. Sorry but I have not been working on this every day.
Hey man, you've been through the wringer but this is good news. Let us know if the truck cranks over.
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Old 02-17-2021, 05:45 AM #43
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I had this issue with my 4th gen bush wagon. For some reason I think I am a submarine and cannot stay out of the water. My OBD port was not communicating and my 4runner would turn over but not start. I also had some lights on the dash. Swapping out the computer fixed everything.
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Old 02-20-2021, 03:08 PM #44
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Ok, pulled the plugs to kick out any water that may have hydro locked the engine and click. Started clicking but no turnover! Using the reset to try to reset the ECU. I bought a junkyard ECU that is being shipped next week. Maybe a starter issue too. Super awesome.
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Old 02-20-2021, 05:51 PM #45
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Angry

Well I manually cranked over the engine with the crankshaft pulley nut and of course kicked a bunch of water out of my engine. Hopefully I didn’t bend a rod, but that wouldn’t surprise me at this point.
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