02-02-2021, 07:56 PM
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#16
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jamoc
The last thing I would do is swap the JBA UCA's. I'd swap the spacer lift to a proper lift, before the UCA's.
I would def. get the BMW work done regardless. I think the body mount work will solve your problem
Also, for drivability, MPG, etc. I was recommended by multiple people who have installed and drove 35's on our trucks, to not pass a true 34 inch tire (285/75/17). Now, that doesn't mean you can't, or shouldn't put 35's - that's what was simply recommended to me by those with real world experience.
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Appreciate that. I was considering stopping at the 285/75/17 too. But was gonna see if I could find a set of mounted 35s to try out after I do all the work.
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02-03-2021, 12:51 AM
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#17
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Quote:
Originally Posted by lpittman
Afraid I don't have the means to remove the spacers currently. Either way that's the look/stance I want in the end, so I'll keep working around it.
After the UCA install, before the alignment.
Caster: 5.07 | 4.81
Camber: -0.46 | -0.78
Toe: -0.61 | -0.61
After alignment (when rubbing got worse):
Caster: 4.03 | 4.17
Camber: -0.20 | -0.23
Toe: 0.02 | 0.04
After second alignment attempt:
Caster: 2.74 | 2.96
Camber: -0.49 | -0.65
Toe: 0.04 | 0.04
Worst part is the alignment shop was telling me I needed to keep reducing caster to get clearance... but I don't agree.
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Yes you're right, the alignment shop is wrong. The Caster needs to be increased, probably back to what it was in the beginning, around 5*.
I understand the spacers provide the look you want, however, it will become more and more challenging to get bigger tires to fit without rubbing using them. Maybe consider a smaller spacer, or a different wheel
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'13 TE w/ KDSS, 4:56 Gears, Dobinson's IMS C59-352/C59-701V, Sonoran Steel KDSS Trac Bar, Overland Custom Design Control Arms. Fuel Revolver 17x9 +1 mm 5" Backspace, Falken Wildpeak A/t3w 285/75r17, Hefty Fabworks Aluminum Front Bumper and Full Skids, C4 Fab Dual Swingout Rear Bumper, MetalTech OPOR Sliders, Northstar, Off-Grid Engineering, SPod, Blue Sea, Rigid, Baja Designs, KC HiLites, Stedi, Aplharex, National Luna, Drifta, Goose Gear, RAD Rubber Designs, Viair, Bandi Mount, URD, Gobi, ARB, Warn, Factor 55, Fourtreks, Axia Alloys, Desert Does It, Agency 6
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02-03-2021, 01:21 AM
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#18
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X 2 , increase caster , push the lower forward for clearance.
Aftermarket upper arms move the upper arm ball joint pivot back to increase caster when the suspension is pushed down for lift.
The anti-dive angle of the upper arm is why caster changes so much.
When the upper arm ball joint pivot is moved back it rocks the whole spindle back which moves the hub centerline back slightly putting the wheel closer to the rear of the wheel well.
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02-03-2021, 08:43 AM
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#19
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Happysmiley
X 2 , increase caster , push the lower forward for clearance.
Aftermarket upper arms move the upper arm ball joint pivot back to increase caster when the suspension is pushed down for lift.
The anti-dive angle of the upper arm is why caster changes so much.
When the upper arm ball joint pivot is moved back it rocks the whole spindle back which moves the hub centerline back slightly putting the wheel closer to the rear of the wheel well.
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x2. This is exactly correct. The high caster UCA achieves this by moving the upper pivot location rearward. The alignment shop can only now adjust the lower control arm forward as much as possible which will further increase caster and of course gain clearance from the body mount. But, as they make this adjustment it also affects camber.
I went from Camburg UCA to JBA HD High Caster and immediately had mud flap rubbing because the JBA has more built in positive caster.
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2016 Trail Edition Premium, Silver with KDSS, 2.5 King lift, T13 rear springs, FN Six Shooter with ST Maxx, BB Skids
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02-03-2021, 11:01 AM
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#20
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jamoc
Also, for drivability, MPG, etc. I was recommended by multiple people who have installed and drove 35's on our trucks, to not pass a true 34 inch tire (285/75/17). Now, that doesn't mean you can't, or shouldn't put 35's - that's what was simply recommended to me by those with real world experience.
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Why, what is different about driving on 35's, vs. 34's? Besides women throwing themselves at the driver on 35's?
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02-03-2021, 12:23 PM
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#21
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Quote:
Originally Posted by delloro
Why, what is different about driving on 35's, vs. 34's? Besides women throwing themselves at the driver on 35's?
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Effective gearing change. I wouldn't do 34s with 3.73 gears, 35s would be horrible.
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02-03-2021, 12:52 PM
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#22
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Jeremy556
Effective gearing change. I wouldn't do 34s with 3.73 gears, 35s would be horrible.
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Yeah I think anything over 33" is sort of a can of worms. Gearing certainly being a big expensive part of that.
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'13 TE w/ KDSS, 4:56 Gears, Dobinson's IMS C59-352/C59-701V, Sonoran Steel KDSS Trac Bar, Overland Custom Design Control Arms. Fuel Revolver 17x9 +1 mm 5" Backspace, Falken Wildpeak A/t3w 285/75r17, Hefty Fabworks Aluminum Front Bumper and Full Skids, C4 Fab Dual Swingout Rear Bumper, MetalTech OPOR Sliders, Northstar, Off-Grid Engineering, SPod, Blue Sea, Rigid, Baja Designs, KC HiLites, Stedi, Aplharex, National Luna, Drifta, Goose Gear, RAD Rubber Designs, Viair, Bandi Mount, URD, Gobi, ARB, Warn, Factor 55, Fourtreks, Axia Alloys, Desert Does It, Agency 6
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02-04-2021, 02:47 PM
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#23
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Thanks everyone!
I went to a different shop this morning and they also confirmed that what I was saying was correct (and you are all saying) and they did the alignment properly. Now I have zero rub at any time.
Final numbers - for those interested.
Caster: 5 3/32* | 5 7/16*
Camber: -5/32* | -5/32*
Also stopped back at the original shop and told them about it and asked for a refund. The refunded me but still said they don't think it's right - they think the caster needs to be reduced. Needless to say, I won't be going back.
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02-04-2021, 04:48 PM
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#24
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JBA UCAs, Clearance & Alignment
Quote:
Originally Posted by lpittman
Thanks everyone!
I went to a different shop this morning and they also confirmed that what I was saying was correct (and you are all saying) and they did the alignment properly. Now I have zero rub at any time.
Final numbers - for those interested.
Caster: 5 3/32* | 5 7/16*
Camber: -5/32* | -5/32*
Also stopped back at the original shop and told them about it and asked for a refund. The refunded me but still said they don't think it's right - they think the caster needs to be reduced. Needless to say, I won't be going back.
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Congrats . As I mentioned.. caster 5+
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02-04-2021, 08:12 PM
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#25
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Congrats!
That's really good news. Glad I was wrong, now you don't need to cut anything!
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11-21-2021, 07:16 PM
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#26
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Bump
So just to get this clear, you can run 285s, JBA UCAs (high caster), lifted around 3"F/2.5"R, TRD OR wheels, 1.5" wheel spacers and NOT have to do a BMC??
I'm in a similar situation:
Wilkpeak P285/70R17, JBA UCAs, FOX 2.5/2.0 shocks lifted around 2.5"F/1.5"R, TRD OR wheels.
I haven't thrown the new shocks/UCAs on yet but I'm on a spacer lift with the lift I am happy with (Daystar 2.5/1.5)
I will start installing as soon as my UCAs come in but from all the reading I've done it seems the 285s will rub the UCAs so I'm contemplating getting the wheels spacers as well but don't want to have to do a BMC just yet.
I'm also open to running shorter wheel spacers just to clear 3/4" or 1" if it'll help not rubbing and I'm sure the TRD OR wheels have reliefs for the studs, just too lazy to pull a wheel off lol.
Last edited by Ramos617; 11-21-2021 at 07:17 PM.
Reason: Grammar
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