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Old 02-03-2021, 01:28 PM #1
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How do I run high current wires to my trailer?

Hi all,
How do I run high current wires from my alternator to a a trailer that I am towing? This will be for my LIFEPO4 battery in the battery box of the trailer. Maximum current will be around 180Amps. Do I run the wires under the truck? If so, what kind of wire insulation is best to cope with the environment?
TIA
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Old 02-03-2021, 01:40 PM #2
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Johncmng View Post
Hi all,
How do I run high current wires from my alternator to a a trailer that I am towing? This will be for my LIFEPO4 battery in the battery box of the trailer. Maximum current will be around 180Amps. Do I run the wires under the truck? If so, what kind of wire insulation is best to cope with the environment?
TIA
Not sure what you mean by "high current". The only thing that will allow more amperage to go through is a thicker wire. I would run fused wires, say #4 back from the battery to the trailer, then have "Anderson" connectors...might not be a bad idea to run some way to shut it off under the hood.
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Old 02-03-2021, 02:13 PM #3
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Titanpat57 View Post
Not sure what you mean by "high current". The only thing that will allow more amperage to go through is a thicker wire. I would run fused wires, say #4 back from the battery to the trailer, then have "Anderson" connectors...might not be a bad idea to run some way to shut it off under the hood.
Thanks! The battery disconnect is a good idea.
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Old 02-03-2021, 02:16 PM #4
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I'd put a relay in there in case some dickhead decides to short the connector for some reason.
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Old 02-03-2021, 02:26 PM #5
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Do you have a 7 pin connector? Why not run an 8 or 10 gauge wire with a 40 amp relay through that?


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Old 02-03-2021, 02:39 PM #6
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Ascole View Post
Do you have a 7 pin connector? Why not run an 8 or 10 gauge wire with a 40 amp relay through that?


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Yes, I have a 7 pin connector. I don't want to do that because the 8 gauge wire will barely handle 180 amps without getting hot.
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Old 02-03-2021, 02:40 PM #7
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I'd put a relay in there in case some dickhead decides to short the connector for some reason.
That's an even better idea.
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Old 02-03-2021, 03:00 PM #8
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There are charts you can look up that give you the proper relation to voltage, current and wire size. It's a good idea to allow for surges by using a little larger wire than calculated. I would run the wires in conduit for protection. All connectors and other components need to like rated also. I would make a diagram and label each wire on both ends for proper connection and later troubleshooting. Use quality components - this is not something to skimp on.
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Old 02-03-2021, 08:41 PM #9
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Im thinkin you need to look into redarc products.
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Old 02-03-2021, 09:09 PM #10
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Johncmng View Post
Hi all,
How do I run high current wires from my alternator to a a trailer that I am towing? This will be for my LIFEPO4 battery in the battery box of the trailer. Maximum current will be around 180Amps. Do I run the wires under the truck? If so, what kind of wire insulation is best to cope with the environment?
TIA
Why are you towing a grow house?

You will need 1/0 wire minimum.

I don't run that to my starter. I don't think there is a single 1/0 cable anywhere in a stock 4Runner.

Where will you connect to your power? Your starting battery? You will kill it fairly quickly with a 180A draw.

Sure you don't want a generator?

Last edited by delloro; 02-03-2021 at 09:19 PM.
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Old 02-03-2021, 10:35 PM #11
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Are you sure that the max current is 180A?
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Old 02-04-2021, 02:24 AM #12
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I think the 5th gen alternator max output is 190 amps. Most are cold rated. When the alternator reaches operating temp the max output is closer to 150amps. Minus 20amp for engine. 20 amp for lights. 20 amp for hvac. This leaves a theoretical 90amps. However, the alternator rarely/never spins at max speed. You might have 40amp actual spare power not including accessories.

A well built and expensive hot rated alternator still won't make 180amps reserve power. Some Ford trucks have an optional dual alternator setup from the factory. The new Ford hybrid truck has 7000watts of available A.C. power connections in the bed.
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Old 02-04-2021, 11:57 AM #13
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Johncmng View Post
Hi all,
How do I run high current wires from my alternator to a a trailer that I am towing? This will be for my LIFEPO4 battery in the battery box of the trailer. Maximum current will be around 180Amps. Do I run the wires under the truck? If so, what kind of wire insulation is best to cope with the environment?
TIA
180 Amps?!

You're probably not actually going to have anything close to that, but if you are that's 2-0 or 4-0 thick as shit wire.

How are you charging your LiFePO4 battery? Assuming via a DC-DC charge controller, that will give you the max amperage.

From that max amperage, use a wiring chart to chose the correct size wire then choose an appropriate waterproof connector rates for that amperage.
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Old 02-04-2021, 12:41 PM #14
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If you're expecting the alternator to run the entire trailer at 180amp, that’s not going to happen. If you’re trying to charge the trailer battery, thats definitely not 180amps.
more info on what you're trying to accomplish might be needed.
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Old 02-04-2021, 01:51 PM #15
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Put a fuse right at each battery cable to prevent either side from shorting out. Try to get oxygen free cable (OFC). I’d also want to put a bi-directional shunt current measurement system in, and a volt meter referenced at the car battery.... both of these I’d want viewable from the drivers seat. Another nice feature would be a diode (or “ideal diode”) to ensure current only flows out of the vehicle. Another upgrade would be a relay, solid state switch, FET, etc. to provide a manual toggle on/off or something automatic where it only engages once the vehicle is started. It’s also a good idea to check the maximum charge voltage of the 4Runner (highest in vehicles is typically when things are cold) and ensure it’s compatible with your lithium battery. While most lithium batteries have over voltage protection, it would be good to know if there are conditions which the vehicle wouldn’t charge the pack.

At low RPM (idling) don’t expect much out of the alternator.... this is something that people into car audio have to deal with.

Another approach, albeit more expensive, is to install a large inverter in the 4Runner and then run 120V AC to your trailer and then in your trailer have a battery charger. The inverter which comes stock in the 4Runner wouldn’t be very good because it’s only 100W when driving. Doing this mod has the benefit of providing one with a high power outlet in the 4Runner, and then there is already likely a battery charger in the trailer. This setup also is better at controlling the battery charge profile. This approach is the method I’ll be doing.... the question yet to be answered is if the 4Runner can support an inverter which supplies 120V at 15A steady state when traveling at highway RPMs with the vehicle electrical system loaded down (headlights on, etc.)


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