[Japsfinest]

Has anyone had any issues with the door locks?

Sometimes when I hit the lock button on the key fob, the truck does not beep. I can hear the locks engaging but no beep from the alarm, when this happens, I walk around and check every door and all lock EXCEPT for the drivers door. If I hit the lock on the key fob and all lock then the truck beeps.

I think the locking mechanism is malfunctioning. It may need a little grease/WD40 OR the electrical swicth is going bad. If I lock/unlock with the key instead of the fob, and then follow it with the fob, the truck will beep(confirming that all the doors are locked.

Has anyone had any similar experiences?

I am taking the door panel off tomorrow and will go in for a visual inspection but wanted to see if I am an isolated case

[BlackWorksInc]

If the vehicle is still under warranty I'd have the dealership take a look at it. Otherwise maybe the mechanism could use a shot of silicone or teflon grease?

[Japsfinest]

No longer under warranty.. but yes maybe a little grease my help. Will see tomorrow

[1engineer]

Use white lithium grease. Available at someplace like NAPA.
This is long lasting and similar to OEM specs. Door lock mechanisms are expected to last for years with no maintenance so WD-40 or similar will not be a wise choice as it is a cleaner not a lubricant.

[bishopTS]

wd-40 evaporates, that would be a terrible idea. white lithium ftw

[LWN]

Originally Posted by Japsfinest

Has anyone had any issues with the door locks?

Sometimes when I hit the lock button on the key fob, the truck does not beep. I can hear the locks engaging but no beep from the alarm, when this happens, I walk around and check every door and all lock EXCEPT for the drivers door. If I hit the lock on the key fob and all lock then the truck beeps.

I think the locking mechanism is malfunctioning. It may need a little grease/WD40 OR the electrical swicth is going bad. If I lock/unlock with the key instead of the fob, and then follow it with the fob, the truck will beep(confirming that all the doors are locked.

Has anyone had any similar experiences?

I am taking the door panel off tomorrow and will go in for a visual inspection but wanted to see if I am an isolated case

I'm having the exact same problem - what have others found to fix it??

[gm350reratliff]

I'd recommend taking it out and thoroughly cleaning it then applying some lithium grease to it. The OEM grease is probably full of dirt and gummed up. If keep spraying some lube in there it will continue to gum up.

[LWN]

I replaced the drivers door power door lock actuator, 30 minute job and it's good as new. $280 at Advance Auto but remanufactured versions are available on ebay for $125.

[Youngerarlaw]

My drivers side door lock went out. Had it replaced. Now the passenger side is out and the back drivers side is acting up. 400 bucks at the dealer. Have a 2013 limited with 40k miles. Thankfully I have the extended warranty. Reminds me of my jeep. That isn't a good reminder.

[Helix26404]

Had to have all 4 of mine replaced one after the other in my 2010. Luckily this happened under warranty. Service adviser said he had seen a ton of 4Rs come in with this problem...

[Frank Falcon]

If your out of warranty the cheap fix is to just replace the little dc motor in the actuator not the whole actuator. The motors are 5 to 10 bucks on line. Look for DC mini motor. There are other forums that cover the procedure, just Google it.

[SPENK05]

Originally Posted by Frank Falcon

If your out of warranty the cheap fix is to just replace the little dc motor in the actuator not the whole actuator. The motors are 5 to 10 bucks on line. Look for DC mini motor. There are other forums that cover the procedure, just Google it.

Reviving this because my driver door just started acting up. I've had two replaced under warranty and am no now out. I've researched the dc mini motor and have found multiple sizes. Any insight on which one fits the 5ths? Is the 20mm LONG SHAFT Mabuchi Car Door Lock Actuator Motor the right size? Says it's for Lexus and Toyota. Thanks

[country_dweller]

Did anyone determine what parts are needed to replace the motor in the door actuator? I have a 2014 4Runner with 70,000 mi and my passenger door went out last week and now drivers door this week. Could it be anything other than actuators gone bad? The back doors lock and unlock as expected. I'm looking for the Mabuchi part # shaft length and anything else that I will need when I open it up! THANKS in ADVANCE!!!

[TrkyMfns]

I just did my driver side actuator motor on my 2011. I'm sure the motors are the same. I used the FC-280PC-22125 FLAT SHAFT. MAKE ABSOLUTELY SURE you get the flat shaft version and not the round shaft version. I bought the wrong ones at first and they won't work because the gear affixed to the motor is keyed to work with the half shaft version. Take your time and it's a pretty easy and cheap alternative to replacing the whole actuator.

Here are the exact ones I purchased.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0...?ie=UTF8&psc=1

[bloodninja]

Originally Posted by TrkyMfns

I just did my driver side actuator motor on my 2011. I'm sure the motors are the same. I used the FC-280PC-22125 FLAT SHAFT. MAKE ABSOLUTELY SURE you get the flat shaft version and not the round shaft version. I bought the wrong ones at first and they won't work because the gear affixed to the motor is keyed to work with the half shaft version. Take your time and it's a pretty easy and cheap alternative to replacing the whole actuator.

Here are the exact ones I purchased.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0...?ie=UTF8&psc=1

This is exactly correct. Use these two videos to help you disassemble the part to get to the motor. It's very, very easy and super inexpensive to do.
https://www.youtube.com/playlist?lis...3ZaGw4ortgnEVQ