02-17-2021, 03:39 PM
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#1
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Anyone with road salt and snow any rust issues?
I was curious about rust after reading through the forum. Have those that are not using Fluid Film that live in areas that get snow and the road salt that goes with it run into rust issues? I have never had to use something like that and never had rust on any of my vehicles. Would love to hear peoples experiences. Thank you.
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02-17-2021, 03:42 PM
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#2
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Join Date: Mar 2017
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I wash underneath as much as I can and yes, I have more than I would like.
2012, 150k, located in NW NJ but travels regularly throughout New England and NY all the way up to Maine. Not in the last year though.
Is the frame going to crack in 2 when it goes on a lift? Nope. Not for years. But rust will kill this thing before the drivetrain dies.
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02-17-2021, 04:25 PM
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#3
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Join Date: Mar 2015
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2014 moved to Rustbelt Ohio in late '15. I make a ritual spring and fall of going through a car wash with a good undercarriage wash, letting it dry, then crawling under the truck with a couple rattle cans of rust converter. There's always more than I'd like to see, but is to be expected. Every year I tell myself I'm going to do fluid film and never remember before the first salting. I think come spring time I'm going to take it to a local shop which will blast away a lot of it, then take it over to Ziebart for their soundproofing coating. My brother had it done in the fall and it has a nice protective almost bedliner feel to it, but not quite as hard.
Last edited by Friggin Idiot; 02-17-2021 at 10:19 PM.
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02-17-2021, 04:50 PM
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#4
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Join Date: Nov 2020
Location: Toronto
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Real Name: Troy
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I do the krown rust protection on all my past vehicles with good results and had it done to my limited this fall
Living in Ontario the salt they put down is crazy, I have never had the need to use rust converter since all of the rust is just surface
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2016 limited midnight metallic black
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02-17-2021, 05:05 PM
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#5
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Join Date: Mar 2010
Location: sw PA
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Here in western, PA they use way too much salt & brine on the roads. I got Fluid Film done on my 19' the last 2 Novembers, & I believe that it will prevent the rust from eating my undercarridge.
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02-17-2021, 05:13 PM
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#6
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I normally just take it through a touch less car wash after diving in snow for a few days. Then when it's warm enough I hand wash it, specially under carriage.
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02-17-2021, 05:26 PM
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#7
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Be cautious of the coatings that harden as you will not know what is happening underneath. Any rust that is present would need dealt with prior to application. Gets tricky when dealing with body seams and frames. Some need reapplied, some don't. I personally like the non permanent approach as you can see if anything is starting to corrode. Also the thinner sprays will go in the door pinch welds alot better.
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02-17-2021, 06:17 PM
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#8
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As others have said, blow off the undercarriage at carwash when you can then in spring, first good rain storm take it for a long drive in the rain and that will get where the winter splash got too and hopefully help with the clean up.
Then it is touch up the rust during the summer and get ready to do it all again!
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02-17-2021, 06:25 PM
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#9
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In the Spring I hook a lawn sprinkler up and let it run under my cars for a while. It flushes out stuff that a 2 minute car wash won't. A hot, dry August week is the time for FF.
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02-17-2021, 06:45 PM
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#10
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Magnesium chloride gets into everything.
It can destroy aluminum, steel, rubber, and plastic.
It ****s up seals, grommets, and wiring insulation.
It is usually sprayed scalding hot from tanker trucks, aerosolizes, and gets into every little hole, nook, and cranny.
It will eat your vehicle alive.
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02-17-2021, 06:50 PM
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#11
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Deuxdiesel
In the Spring I hook a lawn sprinkler up and let it run under my cars for a while. It flushes out stuff that a 2 minute car wash won't. A hot, dry August week is the time for FF.
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https://www.homedepot.com/p/RYOBI-Pr...1211/300701617
I use one of these. There are more expensive and probably better options out there, but it has a lot more pressure than an ordinary sprinkler. So far it has helped de-salt my vehicles quite nicely.
I live on a dirt road that has liquid chloride applied to it numerous times throughout the year to keep the dust down. Being it's in liquid form it manages to seep in everywhere especially if you're unlucky enough to drive on when it's recently been applied.
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02-17-2021, 07:17 PM
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#12
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This topic has been mentioned tons of times.
Any vehicle operated in a highly corrosive environment, and simultaneously neglected, will have rust/ corrosion issues.
I had a 3rd gen which I drove on salted/salt-brined roads all winter long, and every summer on the Bonneville Salt Flats, for 22 years.
It had no rust when I sold it.
It took considerable effort to keep it that way. Washing, particularly the undercarriage, as often as needed, even in below freezing temps.
Either you're proactive in preventing the rust, or you live with the results.
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02-17-2021, 08:12 PM
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#13
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I bought my 2011 in 18 and it had always been a new england truck in the Boston area. Not much rust but it did only have 35k miles. Since then liberal use of fluid film every October and it looks exactly the same underneath at 85k miles.
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02-17-2021, 09:20 PM
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#14
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Thank you everyone for the great responses. I think I am going to do a combination of the things mentioned here. I fear doing the Fluid Film currently as I am sure its super salty and grimy underneath for now. I don't want to "lock" that stuff in.
Quote:
Originally Posted by Tbasse01
I do the krown rust protection on all my past vehicles with good results and had it done to my limited this fall
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"Krown Rust Protection". Thank you. Googling now.
Quote:
Originally Posted by spartacus
I normally just take it through a touch less car wash after diving in snow for a few days. Then when it's warm enough I hand wash it, specially under carriage.
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Thanks! Finding a touchless car wash with under spray near me seems impossible. May I ask what you use for the hand wash underneath when you do it yourself? Thanks again.
Quote:
Originally Posted by VENTURE21
Be cautious of the coatings that harden as you will not know what is happening underneath. Any rust that is present would need dealt with prior to application. Gets tricky when dealing with body seams and frames. Some need reapplied, some don't. I personally like the non permanent approach as you can see if anything is starting to corrode. Also the thinner sprays will go in the door pinch welds alot better.
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Thanks for this. Cleared up some of my concerns. May I ask what product you recommend?
Quote:
Originally Posted by Blackdog2086
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I appreciate that link. Thank you.
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02-17-2021, 09:51 PM
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#15
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@ pointman
I use a jet nozzle attached to a hose.
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